Do you recommend tiling the ceiling? Depends. If you have a header going across the doorway, so that the ceiling is more or less enclosed, and there's no vent fan inside the shower so the steam has no place to go, then absolutely-- you should tile the ceiling. If there's no header, or if you have a fan inside the shower, then it's up to you, but personally, I'd tile it anyway. Tile seems to last alot longer than paint. :-) Also, anything about walk in showers to be warned about, especially if we don't do a curb. The biggest things to remember is first, minimum 1/4" per running foot from the furthest point to the drain for the rate of pitch (max 1/2" per foot). Secondly, if there's no curb, then the floor at the doorway to the shower needs to be atleast 2" above the drain. And is $20 per sqft labor sound about right for a shower...both estimates have quoted the same. First, that figure is deceiving. It's not necessarily 20.00 per foot, although that's what it might average out to. I know for myself, just putting the shower pan will cost you 30.00 a foot, plus the cost of the tile installation. Also, you haven't told me what' involved. If this is a Kerdi shower, as well as whether or not that price includes cement board installation, any of the materials, is there any kind of design or any kind of custom work going in. About all you've told me is the square footage, give or take. Tough to say whether it's a fair price in your area, but I'd say that both prices you've gotten so far being the same would be a good indicator.

If you're going to do a frameless glass door, I'd either find a local dealer or talk to Wilson Glass. Depends on whether you want to DIY or not. With Wilson, you measure the opening, and they will ship you all of the hardware and put in the tempered glass order at a tempering plant local to you. Then you pick up the glass and install. The hardware will likely be from CR Laurence, so you can look at their catalog to get an idea (or just look at Wilson Glass' online selection). Assuming a relatively-normal door width (30 to 36"), the weight for 1/2" glass will be 75 to 100 lb.s. The install time will probably be 4 hours or so, and you'll need 2-3 folks who are able to lift to make it happen. As for the seals and sweeps, I think it depends on how big your shower is and whether it'll get spray right up against the door. And whether you care if a little water gets out. Our shower is pretty wide, but we still put the seals on the glass. Guess I could take them back off if I wanted to.

I linked it before but the website is http://www.showerbase2.com/. The price included freight and packaging (turns out they built a MDF crate for it - I was expecting a cardboard box). It is sanded with a coarse grit sandpaper for a matte nonslip finish so there is no applied texture to it either and really dark colors don't work well (they end up looking like there is a haze on them, I was thinking about doing black for while). One of these days I will get my bathroom started and install it and let you know how it is. I also ordered a corian bench top for my shower bench from them and it was REALLY reasonable, like $70 for a 38x19 bench top. The same thing in granite was going to be 3-4x the cost.

In the past, I've found that a shower curtain that fits will across the enclosure is better than one that is too wide. If it has pleats when it is fully closed, gaps are less likely to be noticed. Also, you can glue or stitch some added weights along the bottom of the curtain to keep it down all the way across inside the curb. One problem with a curved rod is that the curtain will be pulled out in the center, and so be shorter along the curb. It depends on the amount of curve and height of the curb as to whether the center part will stay inside the curb without the ends being too long. (on the other hand, a pair of scissors and needle and thread can take care of that easily depending on the type of curtain.)