Linked below are some directions for transplanting large yew shrubs; this was easier than typing everything out, and it looks pretty comprehensive. Some sources recommend adding some super-phosphate to the soil as you backfill to help promote root growth, but do not add a high-nitrogen fertilizer as it would promote lush leaf growth and the shrub will not have the root system to support that. A few further suggestions for transplanting: 1. If possible, do it when a spell of cloudy weather is expected to minimize stress on the plant. 2. Place the root ball at the same height as it was before you dug it up. 3. Some yews have an upright habit, while others have a more spreading habit. Although they can tolerate considerable regular pruning/shearing, take their habit into account when placing them so you are not fighting their nature. 4. Yews don't like soggy soil, but do make sure it is watered as needed for the first year or so, while it is establishing its new root system. Since you will undoubtedly lose some of the root system when transplanting, cutting back the top is not a bad idea, especially if you want to re-shape the shrubs anyway. Fall is a good time for transplanting many things, as the soil is still warm enough to promote root growth, but the air temperature and sun intensity are waning, meaning less demand on that compromised root system. Several years ago the removal of two large oaks due to disease and falling branches turned our front yard from mostly dappled shade to several hours of strong sun. A total re-do was in order and I wound up moving about 200 plants - bulbs, herbaceous perennials and woody shrubs. We also planted some trees to replace the oaks, but it will be decades before they reach half the size of those oaks. The largest plants moved were two large forsythia and a 5-6' tall yew tree ... all took it well and are still doing fine in their mixed border with other shrubs and a variety of bulbs and herbaceous perennials to provide year 'round interest and blooms from February into November. Over the years, I have been incorporating native plants into the gardens for ease of maintenance and to support our wildlife, and I have seen an increase in the number and variety of songbirds, butterflies, bees (honeybees and our native bees) and beneficial insects. Here is a link that might be useful: Transplanting large yew

Thank you Beth7happy!!! That is it exactly!! The leaves are a little different from the other types of Solanum. It looks like the 'Home Depot' name is: Twoleaf Nightshade or Twinleaf Nightshade Taxonomic Rank: Magnoliopsida: Solanales: Solanaceae It is listed on the Invasive Species site (along with many plants I happen to enjoy...). http://www.invasive.org/species/subject.cfm?sub=6447 I haven't found any info on the berries as to if they are toxic or not. I cut back the plant, but did not dig it up. If it's not toxic and wildlife enjoy it, then it may be a keeper. Thank to everyone who helped in solving this 'mystery' plant ID!!

Yes, the Lady Banks do get huge. Mine in Tx City grew up all over a 20' tree and then new vines started moving back down to the ground. They're thornless, so it's real easy to weave the long "dangling" new branchings right where you want them. The plant literature says they need full sun for best flowering, but mine bloomed pretty nicely in part shade. There was a bank of oleanders behind the supporting pear tree; and the pear tree's leaves shaded a lot of the front side of it. I love yellow roses so on trellises and arbors. :) Most of the former owners existing roses are pale pink, (one antique and one hybrid tea, along with a big, near red KnockOut bush in the center "island") so I welcome some yellow out there.

Really how close are the neighbours? IMO a fence creates enough privacy for most people and any kind of tree has roots and with all that hardscape those roots will never get enough water so they will be looking for water where ever they can find it which could be right under the hardscape.IMO too much paver in relation to green space .