Congrats on learning Excel. It's almost a never ending process though once you've got the basics down it becomes much more understandable. I took quite a number of Excel course levels prior to my retiring and I always enjoyed them. I had one spreadsheet that was so detailed and interconnected to hundreds of pages of data and hidden macros I was always afraid to let anyone touch it in case they ruined something LOL Therefore the biggest TIP... always always always hit the SAVE button every once in awhile as you work just in case. AND when you're done ALWAYS make a duplicate copy of the whole spreadsheet and keep it in a file under your name separate from the main file, just in case. Nothing worse than finding your work lost or wrecked. But being smart you have "your backup" LOL Regarding keeping genealogy/historical data I'm thinking that Excel isn't exactly the best program for that. Microsoft Access is more geared to sorting, sifting and printing documentary data whereas Excel is more for numerical data. The better part of Access is that data entry is much simpler, you create a "form" with fill in the blanks and just type away the name, date, birthplace, year, etc and it magically compiles it all for retrieval however you want it. With Excel you have to go filling in all those little boxes on the spreadsheet. I highly recommend taking the MS Access course as well.

I do not believe that Sadie is aggressive, I think she is insecure and nervous. Sadie is a rescue and while she has been saved physically there is still the psychological damage that must be rehabilitated. It is also important to remember that dog psychology is not human psychology, so while we may want to give affection to soothe a stressed animal, it will only reinforce that state of mind. The three things that will bring balance to your dogs are: exercise, discipline, affection, in that order. Walking the dogs together will form a bond and drain energy. Pent up energy can cause frustration and result in unwanted behaviour. If you have a treadmill Sadie can be trained to walk on it. It doesn't matter which dog is older or who's been living in the house longer, the pack leader must always be the humans. If you are not the pack leader your pack may trust you but they can't respect you and you will have a hard time rehabilitating unwanted behaviour. Dogs in a pack in the wild listen to the pack leader. He/she leads with calm, assertive energy. Dogs understand energy, they coordinate hunts in the wild and don't bark orders to each other. Followers never question the pack leader, if they do he/she will first give a warning and if that isn't effective then they follow through with a touch, a bite or pinning the other dog down. I believe pinning down is what Mazer is doing with his dog. It is not humiliating or punishing (unless you do it with anger or frustration). Done with a calm, assertive energy you wait until the dog submits. On the ground on their side is a submissive position (like lifting our head high and shoulders back makes us feel more assertive) and shows not only that dog but others around that you are the pack leader. But it can be dangerous around unstable dogs (who may attack weakness) and I would never try it without being shown how to do it and where to hold the dog on the neck. When preparing their food no one should be close to you. Make them sit at a distance, give yourself 4 feet or more of space around you, this tells the dogs that you own the food. Then when you are ready to give it to them make them both sit and wait till they are calm, submissive (ears back, not displaying excitement) then feed the calmer one first. Always reward the dog that is the most calm and submissive. Do this in all things, food, rewards, affection. Never play favorites. When you bring a new dog into your home it should be treated equal to the other pets or this can cause dominant behaviour in the favorite one which can lead to bad behaviour from members of the pack. The order in the house should be all humans #1 and all dogs #2. Pack leaders in the wild don't favor any one dog in the pack, they treat all dogs equal. Remember that rescuing a dog is the first step in rehabilitating an abused/neglected dog. Dogs can suffer psychological abuse just as humans can but must be rehabilitated using dog psychology, not human psychology. Dogs live in the moment while we live with the past (not letting go of a tragic past event), present and future (is our dog going to bite someone). You can't help an animal if you pity them. Like with any goal you must envision what you want, picture yourself walking your dog calmly without them pulling or lunging. If we anticipate the worst (a dog attack) we will pass our nervous, anxious energy to our dog who doesn't understand our stress may be related to something else, they will see our weak energy and feel the need to take control of the situation. Someone must always be the pack leader and if its not the human then a dog will take on the role themselves. Watch for subtle clues between your dogs, your older one might be sending messages that start the chomp from your new dog. Dogs challenge each other with their eyes, pay attention to their breathing, their posture, watch if they stop panting and become very quiet. Snap your fingers or say 'hey' (or whatever noise/word you use to correct unwanted behaviour) and stop the behaviour at level 1 before it reaches a higher intensity. You may think that the unwanted behaviour is the bite/attack but it starts before that and addressing it at the beginning prevents it from escalating to a higher level which will be more difficult to correct. Make sure your intensity matches or is a bit higher than the intensity of their behaviour. If they are jumping up on you a bit yelling 'HEY!' is too strong a correction. If they are jumping uncontrollably on you, your guests and the furniture a soft 'hey' won't be enough to correct your dog.

Totally dependent on the dog. I had never used crates until our current two dogs. It was necessary for both, but in totally different ways. The big dog needed to have extreme aggression dealt with and using an open crate was part of that training. Once the aggression was modified, there was no reason for the crate. The small dog needed the security at first. I put the crate by my side of the bed and made a cave by covering the top. Once she was house broken, and her confidence boosted, the crate is left open so she can use it as she pleases. However, if the small dog is not exercised fairly regularly, she can get a bit destructive---tissue boxes are her favorite. She will get into the living room trash during those times---but not the kitchen trash. Dogs are often destructive because they are bored. The more energetic the dog, the more easily it can get bored. Crating can be a good part of a dogs life if it keeps the dog from being destructive. But it is a very bad idea to take the place of exercise. Crating in a car is much better than allowing an energetic, hyper, or scared dog loose and create distractions for the driver.

mama here's my current stash and uses: Persil Pearls: All whites excluding the wife's unmentionables. Persil 2in1: All of my colors Cheer Powder: All wife and I's blacks, denims, navys excluding the wife's unmentionables. ALL F&C OXI liquid: All of the kiddo's clothes and remaining of wife's colors and unmentionables. Wisk: Because Wisk is going bye bye and because I wanted something to pre-treat my collared shirts. Ariel and Borax: For the obvious hard works Other detergents that will be finished off or gifted: Ecos: 3 loads remaining max B.R.U.'s version of Dreft: A lot left honestly but really rather use ALL F&C OXI Purex Naturals: Unopened but has been replaced by ALL F&C OXI