Safety First. No Call Backs. The more the better. You're not just dealing with water, but vapor. "You're only as strong as your weakest link".

oh brother. talk about lazy tilers. you do the entire cement board in the entire shower! don't hire the '3 foot' guys!

what tile are you doing? how big is the shower area?

Is there going to be a shower head or is this strictly a tub? If strictly a tub what he proposes is OK (not great but ok). If it is to also be a shower, he is completely wrong. Period. Stop.

Beth - The cement board will go around the entire tub surround and be installed to the ceiling, however they only apply the mesh and waterproof membrane 3' up from the bottom of the CB. The tub surround tile will be Arizona Tile Metalwood, color Platino in 12x24 stacked pattern. It's a standard 5' by 30" tub space and about 94" up to the ceiling.

millworkman - It's a tub/shower combo, hall bath and rarely gets used (not that I think I should skimp because of this). I haven't hired him yet, but his guys do REALLY nice tile work. He's a highly rated company including with high end builders. How high should he go? He says that's all code requires?? And if he works with builders wouldn't he know if it's wrong?

One other guy that initially came to give me an estimate said he used green board in remodels, I said no to green board then he said he could use wonderboard but he'd waterproof all the way up.

The one that doesn't waterproof all the way up also has an additional labor fee for plank tile installation. Is that because it's more work?

Thanks for all your responses. Please let me know what your experience is on these issues and what I should look for. I've done a lot of research but I'm not an expert.

. IMO you can never overdo waterproofing in a shower and how is it possible to not get water up the walls in a shower? As for plank install they are a trickier to install but if you have checked out the guys references and love his work probably worth it.I do hope those are not wood look planks which I think only look right in places where wood would go.

Patricia Colwell Consulting - I agree on the waterproofing. Uh oh, yes they are wood look plank tiles. We had them installed in our MB also. I tried using a gray but couldn't find a warm enough gray with a pattern I like in a good quality tile. I feel like wood really goes with anything and warms up the space.

This is my MB photo. What would you have done differently? Thank you.

My family has a construction company which has been in operation for over 60 years. When the membrane waterproofing systems came onto the market we contacted the manufacturers about their use and were told that 'the membrane should be applied everywhere you tile'. We have followed this advice since day one and have never had a callback over waterproofing on any of our bathrooms. If you like a particular tile setter but aren't happy with his use of waterproofing, can't you stipulate in your contract where you want the waterproofing to end? Should they refuse this request, then I would look for a new contractor.

if you really like the guys tile skills, tell him you want the waterproofing on the entire surround, all the way to the ceiling. stopping 3' up is stupid. what happens when you want to rinse or clean the tiles? or someone decides to put in a rain head later on down the road? I don't care what he says code is. if tile is going on it, then waterproof it. it's not that much more work to do.

As for the green board. absolutely has no business in a wet area. none. not even w/waterproofing over it. tell that guy to take a hike. If he cuts corners there, he'll do it elsewhere.

Only waterproof where you don’t want water damage. If you want water damage, invite it in with either guy. Because you will get it.

Don’t start specifying to a contractor that he do something he is unfamiliar with, or you are going to get a resentful hack job. You do not want to be any guys guinea pig. If he knew how to do it correctly, it would be done correctly, and he is the one that would be explaining proper waterproofing to you. Not the other way around.

You CAN suggest that he buy a current TCNA manual and get back to you after he’s read it. Or that he go on John Bridge and hang out with the skilled Pros. If he cares enough to modify his approach, he will take the initiative and get some education. But you cannot force him to do something he doesn’t understand and doesn’t want to do. If he has not cared to keep up with industry standards, he is not likely to start. But, give him a chance to take the imitative.

Ok, thank you all for your input. As I'm looking into his itemized estimate he's charging $210 for installing Fusion Pro grout. I don't know if this is because a lot of tilers don't like using that product or just because he's itemizing all costs. Any thoughts on that?

Overall his estimate is the highest by about 18%.

I have a couple of other bids, just need to locate reviews.

What are the price ranges of the bids? What type of references, license and insurance verifications have you done? Are any of them members of a trade organization?

"He says that's all code requires?"

EGAD's, code is not the end all, be all.......

"And if he works with builders wouldn't he know if it's wrong?"

Depends on the builder's general type work. Higher end builders will generally build well past code. Builder/Developers will build to the bear minumum. Period.

Sophie Wheeler - bids range from $2300 - $4200. Floor sq footage is a little different on each bid, but basically around 145 sq ft for the floor and 100 sq ft for tub surround. One is part of TCNA but had some of the worst reviews. I'm looking for the other's reviews. I'll check licensure and insurance.

Tundra Finish - Thanks for the verification.

Millworkman - Very true.

Also, the most expensive one doesn't caulk change of planes, just grouts :/.

Tundra Finish - I was thinking about your comment...The installer is charging $120 for the grout in addition to $210 to apply it. I used it to install my backsplash...now I know that's a huge difference in surface area, but I didn't find it that hard to use...but maybe because I don't know any different.

It may not be popular to say this, but I'm going to. Yes, waterproofing is important but it's become a popular "thing" to hyper-focus on the full surface waterproofing. Full surface waterproofing, in my opinion, has become necessary, in part, due to the lowering of construction practices (cost cutting/low skill) while building showers. Yes, in recent years we are seeing more failures in showers, but not in old homes. Sadly, they are primarily recession era remodels. You wouldn't believe the showers we have torn out in historic homes where everything, back to the studs, insulation, etc. were bone dry! And those had no liquid waterproofing (not around in those days). But, of course we were doing mud walls, etc. back in the day. Methods have changed. BUT, the primary failures today are not actually the result of inadequate waterproofing on walls. They are the result of pan failures or improper wall board (green board, drywall, etc. that absorbs moisture and breaks down over time). We do a mud pan system with pan membrane and up all corners, and curb and seats, etc. with that membrane as well, where water is most likely to penetrate so the h2o would drain back to floor pan liner. And yes, the lovely surface waterproofing on top (except in steam showers = no no for other reasons). and we do minimal grout joints. My point is that, we need to focus less on the red stuff, and more on the other materials and methods for pan, corners, and curb, etc. It is what is UNDERNEATH that is your real risk for failure. Sorry daduran for the old school rambling here. As for the contractor who doesn't use caulk at change of planes, gone. As for the NTCA member (we are too), memberships can be a good thing but we recently did a little research locally on certain NTCA certified members and were surprised with our findings. You are wise to do the vetting that you are, and take all considerations into account. In the long run, many years of experience and the respect of both long term clients (multiple projects for the same client?), and the recommendations from other quality trades who know their work is a solid approach to your vetting. Good luck with your project.

Dragonfly Tile & Stone Works, Inc - I appreciate your post...but I'm not sure if you're saying I should or shouldn't be too concerned with the waterproof membrane going all the way up? I think it would be important for it to at least go up to the shower head. I'm sorry, but I do hope you can clarify. I looked at your work, very impressive! Can you come do my tile? ;)

And that low price tells you everything you need to know. Average for a correctly waterproofed tiled shower is more double what you have been quoted for the low price, and double the high price by the time you add in the bathroom floor too.

@daduran, tell them you want it all the way up the wall. But remember, the greatest risk of failure is with an improper pan installation. And thanks for the compliments. Honestly, we are terrible about photographing our work. One of those things we keep saying we are going to do more of but our focus always remains on the customer. Wish we could help you out. That being said, while pricing is regional, our estimate would be much higher for that job. I can't tell you how many times we have torn out failed showers installed by others when the customer, very regrettably, WISHED they hadn't gone with that lower priced contractor. Vet them carefully and good luck!