Funny that you guys started to discuss this just when I am about to start this same project myself. Here are my findings. First off, if you plan of putting a counter on top of the new 3.8 cu ft FL, good luck, and have your pocket book ready. You see, the deepest "standard" counters are those for kitchens, at 25 1/8". Assuming that one leaves around 5" of clearance behind those newer FL machines for vents, air circulation, heat, etc, then you are looking at about 30"-35" of depth, depending on how flush you want the counter to come to the front of the machine. Having said that, there are 3 prices for laminate counters in the stores (like Home Depot). The counters you see in the store in stock are the cheapest, and will cost around $10 li ft. If you need to pick a finish that matches say the sink counter top in your bathroom where the machines are also located, then that is considered a custom order, even if it is a standard depth. This will easily double the price to $20 li ft. Now if you want to order a non-standard depth so that it goes from the back of the wall to the front of your new FL, then you are looking at $35-$50 li ft, depending on type of finish like rounded vs sqaure front edge, back ledge or no ledge, etc... Keep this in mind when shopping for a counter top. I would like my counter to cover the machines completely, so I might have to bite the bullet and order the more expensive counter top.... Again, I am talking about a laminate counter top, no fancy materials here.... I am from Canada, and here is what the local Home Depot quoted me in Canadian dollars for the 3 options.. 1) In-Store counter (limited finishes) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $68 CAD Custom order counter (you choose the finish) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $132 - $150 CAD 30 Csutom order counter (you choose the finish) 30-35" (non standard depth) X 6 feet = $222 CAD I believe the last option of non-standard depth only allows for a square front edge finish. If you want a rounder edge in front, like that found on your kitchen counter, the price jumps to $500 CAD, since the guy said that they have to charge for a full 4X8 sheet, and then cut the custom size from there, in order to get the rounded front edge... One other option you can do, which my brother did very nicely is lay down 2 sheets of plywood (for extra thickness), and tile the top and sides, looks really nice, but is a lot more work...

The tiled backsplash usually sits just off the countertop by an 1/8th inch or so and the gap is caulked. The caulk can be cut away and the countertop should be able to be removed without damaging the backsplash. That's in a perfect world. Some installers set the bottom course of tile right on the countertop. Less clearance. Depending on how the countertop is attached to the cabinets below, that can affect things. The shape of the counter. A straight run or and "L" shaped? Are the ends open or captured? How the countertop is constructed? A slab of stone? Or a tiled-in mud bed? Sometimes the countertop needs to be sectioned out in pieces. In general, the backsplash can usually be preserved, but getting the countertop out might be ugly, especially if it's piece by piece. So..."it depends".

I'd slap a fence on the Raptor and cut the tops down in the house. The inside corners and ends that butt to cabinets and walls would have to be freehanded. The masking and cleanup bill would be about as much as the work itself, but it could be done depending on the size and configuration of the job. Of course this is assuming the edges lip over the cabinets; you can't cut the edge off and expose underlayment. If not, you're back to replacement. Here is a link that might be useful: Raptor

Love love love this topic. Your kitchens are amazing. Looking for pics of stainless; particularly of stainless with white cabinets and beadboard backsplash... Have you ever seen this combo? Any ideas would be awesome. Again truly amazing kitchens!!