Hi Arapaho! Once blistering starts, it's either extensive or 2 spots...! Start with maybe an 8-grit sanding sponge, and lightly dull all the paint. This SHOULD knock loose any blisters. * You could use a wire-brush here too. * When all the loose stuff is knocked-off, get out a 120-grit sponge & pretend you're doin' auto-body prep now! * Feather-sand any ridges where flakes have popped off, and lightly sand all other areas a little smoother. * Use a tack-cloth or wipe with a paint-thinner dampened rag to remove all dust. * You could even do further feather-sanding after primer is on...and spot re-prime these areas. * I'd use the Rust-Oleum "Stops-Rust" series primer for lightly rusted metal. Spray rusted areas evenly & let dry. Then do another coat on everything. There is a brush-on 1/2-pint size of this available too, if you can't spray. * Now, you can brush-on (or spray...!) any type of paint you want. Thanks! Faron

Deer or bird netting would also work. It's black and virtually invisible when stretched tight. Use black zip ties, trimmed tight, to afix. You can get this relatively cheap at Home Depot or a farm or garden store.

I have used componants from kingsmetal.com as detail in a ipe rail system combined with alum balusters but I am thinking your project requires a complete metal hadrail. I painted the fancy steel balusters at the shop with several coats of high solids industrual black paint but it is what it is , they will require paint as needed. I use a local steel guy for post brackets and such He builds rail systems all week long but the cap rail is thin. That would be the trick geting a wide cap rail to shelter the actuall balusters and bottom rail from colecting rain as well as the conections not offering a place for water to colect. Usually the conection to the deck is a bolted little plate a person should be sure its painted all around with a rubber gasket. I bid and did a refinish welded steel rial around 300 ft 4 years old it had started to rust in all those 3 places. We built a plastic tent around the whole thing,taped off everything, sprayed it black with an airless,four coats. $3,800. J.

Apparently the new wooden handrail would require a "plow" which would be cut to the shape and width of the metal handrail. You could then drill holes through the metal and attach the wooden handrail with screws from underneath. Covering the angled portions would require miter joints. Would I do it? Nope, the ballusters, particularly that heart-shaped thingy in the middle say, "this ain't modern." Given the way the railing is attached to the landing and treads, it looks like it would be an easy retrofit...and look a lot better. -- amateur