Cbusgirl41:. Sorry for the delay in my answer. My vanity is 72" wide and inset into a nook. The thing that threw me off in my planning was that I didn't plan on having to align the sinks into the middle of the base cabinets, not getting to choose where to place them on my own, so that was why I ran into the same side sconce alignment challenge you are facing. In the close up photos, you can see my 36" wide frameless mirrors are slightly offset from the center of the sinks (again, the sinks!!!!) Apparently, the lesson learned and advice for everyone is to be mindful of the sinks!! Nothing that a few strategically-placed accessories can't fix! The frameless option with the arch gives it sort of the pivot look without the extra baubles. I was going to frame oval custom made mirrors, and, in the end, I love the simplicity of what I now have. I do NOT have supplemental overhead lighting in the vanity area; however, those on a dimmer would have been a nice addition. It's not a problem, because even at night, I have plenty of light and it's rather soothing. Plus, the drywall was already in and finished so I didn't want to have more extras! There is a lighted, heated fan light over in the middle of the room by the shower/tub combo which is to the right when looking from afar towards the vanity. May_Flowers: I am personally obsessed with the side sconces for their ability to "flatter" now that I am reaching a certain age ;-) I am trying to add photos (hopefully not upside down this time!). Hope you can read the dimensions and see the scale. The tape measure in the photos starts at the left wall.

Cork. Yep. Cork glue down tiles that are site finished = water proof comfort! And cork has the added bonus of carrying 15 DIFFERENT wood tones inside a single pattern. The only wood cork does NOT get along with = Brazilian Cherry when it turns PURPLE! That's about it. www.icorkfloor.com Have a look at the glue down products. I'm sure you will find something worth looking at. And just for fun, try working with a very light/white counter top. Cherry looks AMAZING with a crisp white that is almost blue. It is a stunning combination.

Scuff marks are NEVER pure white. They are yellowish. Or brownish. Or blackish. Or purplish. And dust is GRAY...which is not white. Household dust is made up of 90% HUMAN SKIN CELLS (aka dander). Caucasian dander is gray...everyone else's gets darker from there. A speck of spaghetti sauce and it looks like you dropped a bucket of tomatoes. A splash of orange juice and it looks like you are hooligans eating on the floor. A pourous finish like concrete = stains o-plenty and etching. Oh my the etching. Concrete is considered more delicate than marble. It takes more maintenance to keep a concrete floor sealed and "happy" than marble. And white marble is one of the hardest surfaces to "live with" out of them all. And a white car always looks dirty...especially if there is wet weather around (in Seattle white cars look "green" because of the algae growing on them - I kid you not). White and black are EXTREME colours to live with. They are BOTH equally difficult. The mid-tones are easier. If you must have concrete topping, then go gray. It will hide the most. But it will still stain (tomatoes and orange juice) and it will still etch (tomatoes and orange juice) and it will still absorb oil (skin oils, olive oil, oil from a frying pan, etc). A white concrete floor would be 'hell on earth' in my books. But to each their own.

I like that carpet posted above. why don't you just switch to a diff carpet? the prob w/doing a lighter wood, is just what you see. two completely diff wood floors. as for matching what you have, I don't think it will be that difficult to find something very close. If you want wood, then I'd try and find the best possible match (any spare planks laying around ? take those to the flooring store). then you could do a nice area rug around the bed.