It should work...the Monster will give you the best picture. By the way Monster cables will give you the best picture quality. You can find the cables at Best Buy and you can find just about Monster anything at Amazon. It gives you a choice between the standard RCA composite connection or the S video connection. Their game link cables are pretty expensive but provide an excellent picture. Instead of connecting the yellow plug and jack you connect that multi-pinned spidery looking cable and jack. Here is a link that might be useful: PS2 Game-Link S Video connection

The best system rn, PS without thinking. However, even though I am a longtime Playstation fan, it feels like Playstation is just getting more and more expensive: games, online subscription, limited storage and now the "pro" variants. Some of my favorite games on PS are Spider-Man, God of War, Hitman, and Ghost of Tsushima with God of War easily topping the list.

"Growing your own" would be much less of a challenge if you also ate squirrels.... and maybe rabbits ;-) Got rid of our fruiting peaches, getting rid of the fruiting pear, and can't get tomatoes unless grown up against the house where the critters fear to tread. Once scoffed at a GW suggestion to grow things they don't like... and now find myself doing it. Short list so far of just bird peppers, chives, and other spices like rosemary that they don't bother much. They also don't strip our thorned wild blackberry, though still waiting to see how a thornless variety does. They don't show much interest in the prickly agarita either, but too soon to tell if they'll leave the fruits alone. Am thinking okra might also be okay.

OK, so we have backgrounds that allow us to speak in a common language. Mine is in Geothermal Design & Installation with sub specialities of hybrid geothermal systems, Liquid-to-Water, hydronics with heating & cooling, geothermal drilling consultant, as well as high-end audio electronics servicing and living in Canada, the Canadian equivalent of a U.S. Extra Class Amateur Radio Operator’s Certificate & Licence. The links you originally provided regarding T-stats mentioned in passing that they display relative humidity - not that they control humidity. I understand what you want to do and because of your background why you want to do it. There are risks though if there are malfunctions, which is why Honeywell provides the KISS ‘Fail Save’ mode of the optional ON/OFF (Seasonal) Power Switch. Being a computer guy, you might want to also investigate what is mentioned in the Honeywell manual on page 13, Fig. 23, the ‘Equipment Interface Module’ (EIM) that might be something similar to the Carrier Infinity ‘Network Interface Module’ (NIM) that permits communication between non-standard equipment and might also enable the modes of operation that you seek. Aside from ‘raining’ in your home, the HP will have extra long run times just trying to remove the increased latent cooling load in AC mode that a malfunction will create with the steam humidifier running. Great for your Desuperheater though - Think of all that FREE DHW! Other problems you might want to avoid would be mould, bacteria, pathogen growth in your filter & ductwork. You should also be concerned about Legionella. Another concern would be if it’s ‘raining’ inside your HP you will shorten the life of expensive components, such as the ECM Blower Motor - that’s a very expensive service call! While our Geothermal HP does not have a humidifier component, I would not want one to be too ‘automatic’, just as we never leave the T-stat in ‘Automatic’ mode; it’s either Heating Mode, Air-Conditioning Mode or OFF - All manually selected. I don’t want it ‘hunting’ for the perfect temperature while switching from Heating to AC mode, torturing the reversing valve etc and wasting money. I also manually pull the breaker switch at the end of the heating season to make sure the backup can never come on and wait till the next heating season when it’s really cold before re-activation. Something else that I would do if a really wanted the humidifier to be fully automatic, is that I would have its A/C power plugged into a Wifi ‘Wemo’ type device that would be a cheap and easy way to monitor it from anywhere that had WiFi or cellular coverage, allow you to monitor status including live energy consumption, immediate notification of a change in status and allow you to kill the power from virtually anywhere on the planet if you don’t like what you see. BTW: I think your problem occurred because your installer should have known that a humidifier kill switch had to be installed because so far I don’t believe any of your equipment is capable of Humidifier operation in Heating Mode only. You’re right that the Humidifier would then run without the blower. The installer couldn’t figure out how to complete the installation and get the Humidifier up & running without that HUM/ HUM jumper. “I was really hoping that running the AP to Relay 2 of the DXM2 board and setting the dip for humidifier would close the circuit only when heating but that's not the case. It doesn't close the circuit in heating or cooling. Which makes me ask the question, what the hell is that setting for?” You might have to do your own trouble shooting to see if in fact Relay ACC2 functions normally on all contacts (NO & NC) and if not why not, if not related to DIP Switch configuration. Neither ACC RLY 1 or 2 has the ability to sense mode of operation (heating or cooling), however, you might want to have a conversation with ClimateMaster regarding the function of ACC RLY 1 Configuration Table 8 Pg 30 regarding ‘ClimaDry option - Dehumidistat’ & ‘ClimaDry option - Humidistat’ and ACC RLY 2 Configuration - ‘Humidifier’ - Pg 30 Table 9. Regarding your last question, the only thing I can think of is that it was easy enough to add at the design stage so they did. You can ask ClimateMaster that too. How’s the ‘Rust’ situation inside your HP? Make sure your 10-yr extended warranty remains in good standing - if you have one! IMPO SR