Hi rogiert, I am nowhere as experienced as some of the experts on this forum but I do get reasonable results by sowing my seed in take-away food containers which are 1/3 to 1/2 full of damp Coir Peat and which have been microwaved on high for 5 minutes with the lids on. When they are cool, I just squeeze the seed (goo and all) straight from the berries onto the Coir Peat. I seperate the seed as best I can with a pair of stainless steel splinter forceps and then spray it with water from a hand held sprayer to help distribute the seed even further before I then replace the lid. The seed capsules below are neoregelias, but I use the same method with Billgergias as well. I then put the containers on a wire-mesh shelf on the wall of an enclosed north facing porch in good light but no direct sun. After that, the plants get no more water until they are transplanted. The plants below have had no water since they were first sown and as you can see, there is still sufficient moisture to support growth. Hope this helps in some way, all the best, Nev.

Provided the soil they will be planted in, they should do just fine, and do not need to have the roots spread out. Actually doing this. may damage some of the smaller ones, and cause transplant shock. Be sure to add plenty of soil looseners and a transplant fertilizer once they are transplanted. Green Light brand offers a transplant fertilizer, that also encourages more rooting, as well as having vitamins. I use it here when transplanting any trees, shrubs, or any other larger root systems. Rosemary, once extablished, isnt very fussy about the soil requirements.

As far as the buds turning brown and failing to open, I was told years ago to spray them in the spring with something called (I think) Benedryl (or a name something like that--bene- something). It worked for the first few years after I planted my peonies. Then I ran out and never got around to buying any more. However, turned out I no longer needed it. When my peonies got more mature--let's say, 5-6 years old--the buds quit turning brown on their own. An occasional bud might still do it, but most of the buds did what they are supposed to do: bloom. Now that I have had most of the peonies in the ground for 15-20-25 years, they do their own thing without my help, to a great extent. However, I too have had problems with the leaves getting big splotches of brown as the summer wears on and gets hotter and hotter. I don't know how to treat that--because I don't know what it is. So I will be interested in any ideas any of you can share on solving that problem. Thanks, Kate

I have never really paid much attention to the 5-1-1 potting mix until now, since I used store bought acid potting mix for all my blueberry plants which I know Dan doesn't have access to in his area. A ratio of 5 pinebark to 1 peat and 1 perlite does seem quite drying. Unless you're using composted fine (grounded) pinebarks which are softer and denser than coarse pinebark chips - and retains moisture for a bit longer. I'm using a ratio of 30% coarse pinebarks with 70% store bought acid potting mix (a combination of 50% composted fine pinebarks + 50% peatmoss + a bit of perlite). I placed half of the coarse pinebark chips at the base of the container for drainage and mixed the other half with the acid potting mix. So far, all my potted blueberry plants are growing very well in it. No signs of yellowing leaves or stress. I water (added vinegar) them every 4 to 5 days in winter (without mulch) and every 3 days in summer (with mulch). Iron chlorosis only affects new growth so the older leaves should still be green, which it isn't the case here as Dan said - some are turning yellow all over. Maybe it's more than just iron chlorosis. Since you have just transplanted them, maybe try holding off ammonium sulfate for a month until they've settled in in the new potting mix? You're doing too much too fast. You're fertilising them right after transplanting. Try watering them with diluted white vinegar + water for a week or two. I know we're tempted to see our blueberries growing like fruitnut's plants. Have you tested your potting mix ph? Some pinebark have neutral ph, not all are under 5.5 ph. You can test the ph level wih a ph testing dye kit. Not sure how much they're in the U.S but they're pretty affordable in Australia https://www.bunnings.com.au/manutec-garden-care-products-soil-ph-test-kit_p3016727 You said the sweetheart variety is doing well in the new potting mix, maybe the soil ph is just right or that it can tolerate and grow in a higher ph medium. You'll never know unless you test the ph. Blueberries are pretty self sulfucienf just as long the ph is between 4.5 -5.5. A lot of the issues can be fixed with the right soil ph. Otherwise they're a pain to deal with, they'll kick and scream (metaphorically speaking) to let you know they're unhappy little campers.