FACTORS AFFECTING THE ROOTING OF CUTTINGS OF ONCE-BLOOMING ROSES
henry_kuska
6 years ago
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Vaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
6 years agoerasmus_gw
6 years agoRelated Discussions
How bad is cutting into a rose's roots?
Comments (20)1 centimeter = 0.393700787 inches Thank goodness for Google! Campanula, are you getting the barely audible whining coming from sunny Florida? --- i don't know how to grow sweet peas. will they grow in the heat? you mean start them in the pot but then plant them in the ground, right? will they grow on a rose or are they too vigorous? what do you grow them on? i mean, just a little trellis against a wall? (The idiot gardener returns!) I was googling for seeds, and someone said Matucana grows to 1.2192 meters. No, she didn't. She said 4 feet. Do you agree with that size estimate? Is it totally wrong to think about growing one up into a good-sized Tea rose bush? Thanks for the recommendation. I'll try to get some seeds of this variety. The photos are VERY pretty. Sherry Here is a link that might be useful: If only sweat were irrigation......See MoreRotten Desert Rose/how to root desert rose cuttings
Comments (15)I have my desert rose in a clay pot.. I do not water it until it is dry about an inch down. And cut back on water in winter. It is in a south window and gets lots of light in the winter. It goes out on my covered front facing south after all chance of frost is over. It loses some leaves in winter. I have had it for three or four years. I took a cutting alert it dry out on the end put in spot of regular miracle grow potting soil and it has started putting on leaves.. I would love to try planting from seeds.. My cutting even got water logged and started to turn mushy on the end and I cut it off jammed it back in soil and it started leafing out again. I think over watering is what kills most cactus roses.. I also fertilize with mirical grow and alter with blooms fertilizer in summer....See MoreWhy rose cutting bloomed a different color
Comments (3)You're welcome. Is the foliage on your plants exactly the same color as the more established plants or is it also lighter? You could have a nitrogen or iron deficiency as well as in other nutrients. Even though the other plants are within a few blocks of yours, the actual climate zone could easily be different at your home for a variety of reasons. My front garden is much more humid than the back yard. The back is several degrees hotter and much more arid. Colors will vary with temperatures quite a bit. Your new plants could also not be absorbing as many nutrients as the established plants, nor making as much food due to less foliage and a significantly smaller root system. Your plant may be situated on top of a chunk of concrete which leaches out alkalinity causing chlorosis, iron deficiency, where the older plants aren't. Are yours near a side walk, drive or house foundation where cement could be leaching into the soil they grow in? That increases alkalinity which locks up iron and causes lighter foliage and loss of color depth. Your plants could easily be colder or hotter than the older plants a few blocks away and that could cause a color change. You could play with fertilizer to see if that helps, or you could just wait until they are more established and the weather warms. You really won't know, though, until they are mature and developing the root system and foliage mass they are programmed to produce. Kim...See Morehow do you get rose cuttings to root?
Comments (49)Kristen, the reason why "damaging" the end of the cutting allows callusing is you're exposing the cambium layer, the juicy, lighter green layer just beneath the bark. This is the circulatory system of the plant and the tissue that differentiates, either forming more cambium to "knit" a bud to a stock or callus which further differentiates to form roots. Scarifying, or exposing more cambium by scraping off the bark to reveal it; smashing or crushing the ends to expose it or simply slicing through the bark to uncover more of it all have the same effect, though with varying results depending upon a variety of factors. The bottom line is, usually, the more cambium you expose, the greater the callus and number of roots. You might not have had good luck with softer wood cuttings possessing leaves because they transpire too much water, permitting the cutting to dry out. Traditionally, those with foliage work best in more humid conditions where they actually absorb moisture, keeping the cutting hydrated while it calluses and forms roots. Softer wood cuttings with a set or two of leaves are very successful under mist propagation. They continue producing chlorophyll, feeding the plant while absorbing moisture so the cutting continues performing as if it had roots, until it does. Often, this can be accomplished using Mel Hulse's Baggie Method http://paulbardenroses.com/hulse.html It also works rather well under more sophisticated greenhouse conditions. If your climate is humid and mild enough, it may work outdoors without artificial assistance, but I live in a more arid section of Southern California where outdoor propagation isn't successful without assistance. Are leaves necessary for success? If you're using soft wood cuttings during the normal growing season, and you have the right conditions and equipment, they make success easier, faster and more guaranteed. If you can't meet any of those conditions, they'll probably make it easier to fail. If the cuttings you strike with leaves fail with the foliage drying up, your humidity is too low when and where you're doing it. Where I am, they either perform as you've described, or if I put them under plastic, they mold and the cutting fails. That's why I have been so enthusiastic over the wrapping method. When done under the most appropriate temperatures with sufficiently hardened wood, it works like magic. Burying all but the top inch of a cutting has very similar effects and results as the wrapping method. You're keeping the cutting dark, cool and moist, all conditions required to stimulate callusing and rooting. After removing them from the wrapping when they are callused, and often rooted, I plant the cuttings deeply so the majority of the wood remains under soil for that exact reason. Why not? The suggested method of planting a bare root rose is to plant it then mound it with soil, keeping it damp, cool and moist until new foliage appears at the cane tops. At that point, you want to gradually expose more and more cane, permitting it to harden off to the elements rather than just stripping the soil from it and letting it fend for itself. The same is true for cuttings removed from a "close environment" of a baggie or greenhouse. They have to acclimate to the hotter, drier and sunnier conditions just as we do after being inside all winter when we begin spending more time in the hotter, sunnier spring and summer. Once I see growth beginning at the cutting tops, I tilt them out of the pots to check on root activity. If it's filling the bottom of the pot with roots, I'll raise it in the pot, exposing more of the cane by planting it higher, with more soil beneath it. If you can accomplish planting bare roots, uncovering them from the protective soil mounds once grow begins or putting the cuttings out higher just prior to or during a rain, it works excellently! The continual bath of rain helps stabilize them and harden them off very quickly, making your success even more of a sure thing. Kim...See MoreVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agomad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
6 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
6 years agomad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
6 years agoerasmus_gw
6 years agoerasmus_gw
6 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoerasmus_gw
6 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
6 years agoerasmus_gw
6 years agolavenderlacezone8
6 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
5 years ago
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