One thing I'll say first-- in 37 years, I've never laid two areas out the same way. TCNA demands no less than 1/2 tile anywhere, or in the case of diagonal, 1/4 tile. But when tiling an entire house, or even a large area where you're going to abutt several different walls, it's next to impossible NOT to have small cuts somewhere. That said, you want to take an over all look at the area being tiled, and decide where the most obvious areas are-- those places that will be seen by one and all-- THOSE places you want to have good cuts.

Now, you said your guy wants to start from a place that will give you good cuts in the living room, without regard for anywhere else. Although he's on the right track, that's not good enough. He should KNOW what all his cuts will be through out the entire installation before he sets his first piece, and it sounds to me like he's just going to cut in whatever happens past the living room. Not a good idea. I get the idea he's not gridding out the area with chalk lines?

"GC mentioned starting a strip across the LR and working from that, without any further plan." GC is not a tile setter!

What grout is your tile setter comfortable with to guarantee the outcome? You will find 10 setters that like CQ and 10 that hate it. Same with all brands. You have some good advise above from a couple of pro's. Now what you need is a pro on your job who will present you with a mock-up prior to grouting.

Besides answering each of you who so kindly responded, at the end I've provided an update about my meeting with the contractor yesterday. More questions. What a quandary.

Tundra: I appreciate your input. Wish you could have negotiated all this on my behalf.

I'm in a very rural area. The only "contract" I have is a very general estimate sheet for all the remodeling, though I did get him to sign it. I'm told this is typical practice here except if one is building a new home large enough to attract a large contractor. So... no tiling specifics at all. I do keep saying/writing "according to mfgr's instructions" and checked orally that he would adhere to building codes, but nothing has been said or written specifically pertaining to tile. I don't know what all the initials mean, but re wet areas, I'm on the Canadian border in uppermost NYS. Can I still apply standards, or is it too late?

You're absolutely right that I could never learn enough to be on top of this. I do try to educate myself enough to be an informed consumer but even that is very difficult when decisions are needed yesterday on involved matters. One day, I'm told the stored tile is needed later that day or the next day, then we're talking about grout (I followed up with some questions by email, esp re layout).

Re @OP paragraph, I would be much more comfortable with the methods you describe. I'm pretty exacting when I approach a task.

At least this time around (don't ask), I found a GC who is experienced, not a handyman who become an instant contractor by hanging a sign on his truck, if that. However, the GC does "everything" using his own crew, no subcontractors. A tile-only store owner in another town told me she knew of only one tiling pro in this area, and using someone else would not sit well with the GC (there is much remodeling to go). The person who has done the most tiling on this crew prefers Power Grout, but I've read here and on John Bridge about serious problems with curing, so I hesitate to use it... the contractor only guarantees his work, not products... plus Tec grays all look warm to me and Tec cannot tell me which are warm/cool colors. He's opposed to Mapei Flexcolor. The closest Laticrete distributor is 90 miles away. A local building supply store recommended Bostic as being comparable to Power Grout.

More below. I want to thank others first.

Bill Vincent: Thank you once again! In my notes below about my meeting with the contractor yesterday, you will find the answers to what you ask about, as well as more questions. If you mean gridlines all over, heck no, only the one center line in the LR, maybe not chalk. And there are cuts smaller than 1/4 tile at one side of the LR - tiny in fact. On the other side, maybe 1/4 tile? Seems I've messed this up.

Creative Tile: Thank you. I have asked for a tile board with different grouts and the GC is willing to provide one. Now to find some. Certain types have been ruled out, others are unavailable here, and the color is important to me (see response to Tundra).

MEETING YESTERDAY WITH GC ABOUT LAYOUT/PLANNING:

At the start, the GC and his main tiling person expressed resentment about me reading and seeking advice online as well as seeking advice from others (tile store owner, flooring specialist in a home improvement store - not big box). They felt this indicated I didn't trust them. They asserted that they are experienced (they are, but as generalists who do "everything"... tiling is not a trade for them) and told me I should "just trust" them. There was no argument... although they seemed agitated, they remained calm... but it surely affected me. [In my mind, trust is not the issue here - I just want to be an informed, effective consumer. And now I can't get out of my head the old saying, "Never trust somebody who says 'just trust me'" :-) I'm going to assume they really meant they wanted me to respect their knowledge and experience, and hopefully I did reassure them about that.]

They explained they were focusing on the foyer and LR as being most important, which seemed right to me. In response to a question, they said they had determined the center of the LR from both the side and end walls, pointed out a red line end to end (maybe a bit wider than chalk line would be?), and said they would work everything from that line. There was no line across the room side to side and there were no lines to the corners - are these necessary?

Because the articles I read showed arcs and intersections marked on the floor, and there were none, I asked if they used the 3-4-5 formula. They said they used a larger scale which was better, 6-8-10. I wasn't sure whether to ask about the absence of related floor markings.

They had loosely dry-laid a few tiles in different areas to show me what the cuts at some walls would be (I had expressed concern about this when I emailed to say I wanted to know the layout before tile was laid). They offered to move the center line over a bit to avoid the tiny cuts on one side of the LR, but said it would throw off the foyer and advised against it (I didn't outright agree, but I didn't say no... I just wasn't sure). They explained compromises would be necessary in the hallway, and the K wouldn't matter, as the cabinets would cover so much (it's small).

While I was still there, discussing something else, a few tiles were laid starting at what seemed a random distance from an end wall on the center line, but I was distracted so maybe missed measurements taken, as they had mentioned what the cuts at the ends would be. The point didn't seem precisely on the line, but again, I was at the other end of the room, so maybe just being a Nervous Nelly... and I couldn't even remember if that's the way I saw a first tile laid. What I was most wondering about was whether the starting point should be at the center of the room instead - ?

MORE:

Someone at John Bridge mentioned soft joints (news to me). They did not.

I don't know if they've ever done a tiling project this big. It would be rare for someone up here to choose tile flooring except in a bath, an entry or a K.

They likely plowed ahead tiling today, and I'm beating myself up now for not insisting on more thorough planning. I didn't go to the house today (and I don't miss many days)... lots of ice, but I suspect also because I feel so unsure of myself, don't know what to say/ask, don't know if I could spot a problem. Could I insist on penciling/chalking the remainder at this point? How would I spot a problem?

Would it be any help for me to post a floor plan? Or would that be getting too involved?

Again, most sincere thanks to you all.

"They felt this indicated I didn't trust them."

No, this indicates that you want to know more about the process. I much prefer someone who knows something about what I'm doing. Then they know what goes into it. However, the fact that this was their 1st conclusion raises a red flag to me.

"They explained they were focusing on the foyer and LR as being most important, which seemed right to me."

They're right. That IS the most important. However, it's not ALL important. An if one end of the room is small triangles, then they're not even doing THAT right. As I said above-- they should know what every cut will be in the area before they start.

"There was no line across the room side to side and there were no lines to the corners - are these necessary?"

As far as I'm concerned, yes, they are. How do you know you're staying square and uniform, if there's no square line, at the very least?? The ONLY way you're going to know what all your cuts are, is if you grid the area out, as shown in the pic above.

"What I was most wondering about was whether the starting point should be at the center of the room instead - ?"

Possibly, but not necessarily. If that would screw things up in other areas that show, You might want to adjust to off center. Like I said-- I never lay two spaces out the same way, except to say that it looks good to someone walking into the space.

"Someone at John Bridge mentioned soft joints (news to me)."

Whoever told you that is right. (Some good guys over there :-) ). You want to have a caulk joint every 12 feet, and even more frequent, if the area receives alot of sunlight.

"Could I insist on penciling/chalking the remainder at this point?"

You could, but if they've already started, there's a good chance you're going to get push back on it, and the tile guy may threaten to walk (not sure that wouldn't be such a bad idea, but it would put you in limbo and a nightmare payment wise for the work that's been done so far, and what you've given for a deposit). According to what you've said, it sounds like somehow or other, this guy may have figured out what his cuts are going to be. Just let him know that you expect it to fall as he's said it will and you won't have small pieces in obvious places.

"Would it be any help for me to post a floor plan?"

Not really. We'd need to know the exact dimensions, the exact size of the tile, and the size grout joint they're using (what the coursing is) in order to help.

Bill:

"Just trust me" is a red flag for me too. I guess there's little I can do about this except stay involved and vigilant, though I don't like the burden of the latter. I certainly agree that more knowledge gives one a better of appreciation of the work.

It's on me that I didn't ask them to move the line over to avoid the very small cuts, as they did offer (though advised against). I was a bit shaken at the time, and the decision, like others, had to be right then and there.

As to staying square and uniform, I don't see how they can do it without more to go on either. I realize now the great precision required to ensure a good result. If I were approaching a task like this, I'd absolutely want to do the gridlines in your photo. Your layout makes me envious!

I took a look this morning before they arrived, but I don't have a practiced eye (and I'm guessing you, the specialist, would not rely on eyeballing even though you DO have a practiced eye). Nothing stuck out as glaringly out of alignment, though a tile where they ended yesterday seemed off, with the spacer not fitting between tiles at one end and the grout line wider at the other end... I asked, but the stock answer is always about adjustments for unevenness in tile edges, and who am I to say otherwise. I do see how a tiny difference in one place could lead to greater disparity elsewhere. I can only hope.

And speaking of spacers, when I asked why they weren't using corner spacers everywhere, it seems they ran out and can't get more of the same, either that or the regular spacers... I didn't catch the full response. Maybe they are reusing them?

When I asked where soft joints would be placed, the GC did a bit of a doubletake, probably surprised I'd ask. He said that he was just talking about that with his workmate yesterday. He explained that the joints could go in a straight line on the diagonal, but following the tile from sidewall to sidewall (zig zag) would probably be less noticeable, and that they were thinking three or four... I believe he meant for the approx. 26.5' L x 11.5' W living/dining area, which is open to other areas; otherwise, he would have meant in the LR only, say 15-16' L. No mention of soft joints in other areas.

Thanks to your post, which I'd read before leaving, I commented that I understood the spacing is usually about every 12', but closer when there's a lot of sunlight (down the whole length, there are windows + glass doors facing southwest)... no response so I went back to this point again... still no response. He didn't seem to disagree... more like he was puzzled... maybe about considering sunlight? How much closer should the soft joints be when there is lots of sunlight?

You're right, of course... it's too late to ask for grid lines. And too late also to ask for help using the floor plan. I'm going to have small cuts because I didn't ask them to move the line over, but I'll continue hoping the rest is all good news.

Now I need to focus on grout. The worker that the GC seems to defer to on tiling wanted to use Tec Power Grout, but I declined due to the serious problems with curing I've read about both on Houzz and on the pro forum at JohnBridge. He doesn't want to use Flexcolor, as suggested by a tile store owner... says it's expensive, will cost more in labor, and the one time he used it, a white turned yellowish. Many grouts are special order here in the boonies. The color is important to me, so I don't want to buy without seeing. The closest Laticrete dealer is 90 miles away. Etcetera. I realize what's used depends on the situation and each tile specialist has his/her own preferences, but that said, do you have any recommendations?

Please know I very much appreciate your understanding and support, along with your expertise. Also the time you've generously given to your thorough and always helpful posts. Thank you, Ann

TCNA states movement joints for interior applications should be placed at least every 6.1 to 7.6 m (20 to 25 ft) in each direction unless the tilework is exposed to direct sunlight or moisture, which would then require the movement joints placed at least every 2.4 to 3.7 m (8 to 12 ft) in each direction.

Creative Tile: Thank you for this very useful information.

No matter WHICH way they install the soft joint is fine, so long as it's every 12 feet or so. As for one not standing out more than the other, NEITHER way should stand out, if he uses a caulking to match the grout. The ONLY time it will stand out is when the floor gets wet. Then the caulking will keep its color, and the grout will darken until it dries. The floor in the picture has caulk joints every 10 feet. Can you pick them out?

This one is even closer. In this pic, there are two caulk joints. I wouldn't be able to pick them out if I didn't know where they were!

Bill: Oh my, makes me wonder why he'd talk about them standing out less one way. Thank you for the pics!!

The GC told me there is room for movement at all walls. When they began the whole job (not just tiling), they cut a bit off the bottom of all sheetrock so it would be above the floor (maybe an inch?), and to the best of my understanding, that's what he means will allow movement. So they are tiling right to the walls, but actually to a gap under the walls.

Sound okay?

Just as an "adjunct," the Flexcolor CQ is a great way to go. Yes, it costs a bit more and, yes, it takes more care in installing but is quite good as to colour stability, never needs sealing and is antimicrobial.

Ann-- that should be a given-- the perimeter room. But you still need movement joints in the field of the tile, as well, for that much of an expanse of tile.

Bill: I'm sorry, I'm meant in addition to the movement joints in the field of tile. I was wondering if that was an okay way to handle the perimeter. Also wondering about what happens around a small island.

Avanti: Reassuring to know you recommend the Flexcolor CQ.

Both: Which reminds me... the tile is now filthy. Because the first step with Flexcolor is to wet-wipe the tile section you're about to grout and they emphasize keeping sponges clean, I imagine the tile must be cleaned before starting. Is a general spray cleaner okay (no sink or warm water yet)? Could I do that part (with some help) to be sure?

And when the grouting is done for a room, do you cover the floor with something... cardboard? Or? (There is still much to be done and work boots with dirty bottoms can't be good.)

Thank you, Ann

DO NOT TOUCH ANY PART OF THE INSTALLATION YOURSELF. Not even to clean it. If you do ANYTHING, and there's an issue afterward, the finger will be pointed directly at you, even if what you did had nothing to do with the issue. As for the perimeter, I do the same thing on a constant basis.

DO NOT TOUCH ANY PART OF THE INSTALLATION YOURSELF.

I second that.

Bill and Creative: Thank you for the warning! Nervous, though, about trusting them to clean well.

And Bill, thanks for reassuring me the perimeter method is okay.

Bill, I bet I wasn't clear again... I'm sorry. Now I see that it may seem I was asking if soft joints at the perimeter were okay, when I was referencing a previous post asking about cutting sheetrock off at the bottom to allow movement... or do you do that too?

And the worker with the most tiling experience told me today that he grouts rather than caulks at perimeter, but I think he meant only some places where tile pieces are small?

While I don't usually cut the bottom of the sheetrock, I'm thankful when the sheetrockers keep the sheetrock up a bit for me. Even if the sheetrock comes all the way down to the floor, I DO leave an open joint that the baseboard will cover later to allow for expansion. As for gapping the sheetrock, again, the baseboard will also cover that, as well.

Bill, Could you tell me, please, what you mean by leaving an "open joint"? Is it okay to use grout at the perimeter to hold small pieces in place? Thank you.

1. " Is it okay to use grout at the perimeter to hold small pieces in place? "
2. 
   
3. NO.
4. Drywall:

Industry standard is A 5/8" gap between drywall and your slab and that is a seperate concern from the tile perimeter expansion gap. Drywall can and will wick moisture from a slab and turn to mold. In time that mold will spread behind your baseboards and into your wall cavity until you see it.

Tile:

TCNA Handbook recommends allowing for expansion and contraction in every tile installation. In small rooms, a gap at the perimeter of the room (often hidden by baseboard or shoe molding) is sufficient.

1. No grout at the perimeter means no grout at any part of the perimeter. Nor caulk.
2. Be it a wall stud or drywall hung to low. As defined by TCNA EJ171 and ANSI this means the tile must have expansion at the the stud itself or the drywall if it is installed to low.
3. Beyond that Your homes framing will expand and contract both vertically and horizontally. The drywall still needs to have a gap and should never touch the tile anywhere just like the drywall cant touch the slab anywhere.

"Is it okay to use grout at the perimeter to hold small pieces in place?"

No, it's not. You need to have a gap around the edge, and in areas where you can't leave an open gap (areas that will be seen), you caulk so as to have a movable joint, such as along sliders, or other doors.

Thanks, Tundra and Bill. I'm sorry if I seem dense. I'm just wanting to be very sure I understand before going back to him.

No caulk at perimeter either (besides no grout)? I thought I might be able to tell him to use caulk if he felt something was necessary.

I don't think it will be seen. For some reason, he's concerned about small tile pieces along a wall moving.

I hear you both re NO GROUT AT PERIMETER :-)

I told GC via an email (also listing some questions) that I wanted no grout at the perimeter, in keeping with TCNA standards... I carefully prefaced that with a I-may-have-misunderstood statement (walking on eggshells). When I went there today to discuss my list, I got the cold shoulder all around.

Is using a metal paint/putty scraper on tile okay? The apparent aim was was to remove mortar droppings as he washed the tile. He seemed to be using it gently, at least in front of me.

I should have added that the GC's "gentle" use of the scraper did not remove the spot of thinset/mortar he used it on, so he may be scraping harder when I'm not standing nearby watching. When it didn't come off, he stopped and got up.