Randi, first I want to say I'm terribly sorry about your son.. Okay, first are your PL's growing in or outside? PL's don't like being overpotted. The tighter the fit, the more likely you'll get them to bloom. So, if you feel they're overpotted, I'd unpot and place in smaller pots with drainage holes. If you're growing these plants in the house, it's possible the worms you're seeing are milipedes. Mil's are found in soils..although they won't normally harm a plant, who wants them walking in our homes..(S) The balls could be timed-release fertilizers. It's best to water soil thoroughly, then let dry out to a degree before rewatering. Are new leaves growing in brown? If PL's are a managable size, take to sink once a wk and hose down. I'd also mist leaves on a daily basis.. If you're using ac, this dries the air..You can also buy large saucers, place pebbles/stones in saucers, keep them filled w/water. When PL's resume health, apply an all purpose fertilizer..have you ever fertilized plants? I can't answer why one is doing better than the other..Plants seem to have minds of their own..lol..some are hardier than others. Some can take more abuse than others..I don't understand how it works, but it happens. Hope you can save your plants..Toni

Hi all! Happy first day of Spring - especially for we northerners!!! Record snowfalls, record days below zero, that's what we had here in CT. I'm anxious about my saucer garden, but still optimistic. I took the last pix yesterday - the last day of winter. I can't yet get any closer than that pix shows but from what I can see, it's only the Blue Star Creeper that looks iffy to me. The three pix below are from Jan 21, Feb 14, and Mar 19, 2014. I still have a frozen stream along the path. In anticipation of success for this saucer experiment, let me add a few notes and tips that I forgot to include above. On my second try I used a lot of local dirt over the base of potting soil. Seems happier - potting soil not earthy enough? This sled is made of aluminum. I don't know about plastic - might its chemicals leach into the dirt over time? Maybe a year or two would be okay? I don't know - anybody else? Since last summer I water (drizzle) with rain water only, and only when needed, concentrating on the drier perimeter, letting it soak to the center. All that said, I'll probably finish this thread with one more pix in early summer - with critters. As for the rest of my time in here - I'm still learning from everyone else - with very little expertise. Onward and upward for us all - flowers included! -- K

The "worst virus" is TMV Tobacco Mosaic Virus or Color Break virus. The virus causes discoloration, streaking both light and dark in the flower. Leaves will show dark necrotic or colored ringspots like Odont ringspot virus. Or there will be purplish streaking and discoloration on the undersides of new leaves. Cybmidium Mosiac Virus (CyMV) usually causes yellow then necrotic streaking in leaves. It usually doesn't affect the flower, however, it ages it quickly and sometimes dark sunken necrotic areas will form on an old fading flower. Aphids, crawling insects, and slugs can be vectors for virus. But in most cases it is human negligence. Cutting with an unsterilized tool. Also, never soak bareoot plants together in the same bucket, or dunk plants into a pesticide solution one after the other; virus can be spread that way. If you have to use pesticides, get a good hudson sprayer and use a good systemic insecticide. I wash and scrub my used plastic pots in a solution of Physan. Kills virus on contact. I also spray my orchids a solution of Physan to keep the boltrytis down in the winter months. I wouldn't dip my tools in bleach, Physan or TSP. It ruins and corrodes the blades. I used a standard propane blowtorch and flame sterilize my cutting tools for several minutes till it gets red hot to use them between each plant. IF you suspect virus immediately, don't buy the plant. Also, if you do buy it and are uncomfortable, have a lab do a quick assay of it. Then send a copy of the test (if it's positive) to the vendor indicating that he or she has sold you a virused plant. Do this quickly. Virus spread rather slowly and there is a certain amount of incubation time before it manifests itself. But if you are suspicious and the vendor guarantees virus free plants, and your plant seems sick, get it tested quickly.

I love agaves too and grow quite a few, A. americana included. Most of mine are in the ground but I do have a few americanas in pots. How much sun does yours get? Is there a hole in the bottom of the pot for water to drain away? Is the pot sitting in a saucer? They're generally happiest in pots with holes in the bottom and without a saucer so that they don't sit in water which is a concern it sounds like all of us are wondering about. We'd love to hear more about how you're growing your plants. I'll just say that my largest potted Agave americana is in a large unglazed pot with a large drainage hole in the bottom. I put some mesh over the hole and then put a one inch layer of perlite in the bottom before adding soil, so that water can get out easily and quickly. I've got the pot near a western wall so the agave gets direct sun from sunrise until mid-day and then shade the rest of the day. I water it once a week in summer and maybe once every month in winter. It loves life in these conditions though as Lazy and Mary mentioned, it will get angry if it's in full sun all day all summer. Its siblings are in full sun all day all year but they're in the ground. I love Lazy's approach to dealing with things, so let us know what you do and how it works out. Any pics or additional information would be good. I do love agaves and I hope everything works out for yours. Keep us posted! Take care, Grant