I have some tomato vines that I have kept pruned with one (main) stem, taking off the suckers every few days. Some squirrels have been messing with both the tomatoes and the actual vine, stripping the branches off and chewing the main stem. 3 of my 4 vines have had the top foot or so of the main stem chewed off. These were about 5-6 ft before the squirrel damage. I know this is where the vine growth was happening, and now the vines are just kind of sitting there, not growing anything new or old around the top. For now, I've let the suckers start growing, since I don't see how else the vine can grow to make new blossoms and tomatoes. I haven't grown tomatoes in a long time, and I don't remember how things work. Would the older part of the main stem ever get new blossom buds - or is the old stem only good for supporting new vine growth now? Is the new growth the only place where I will ever see new blossoms? I'm starting some more tomato plants, and this time I'm thinking I shouldn't try to prune to one stem since the squirrels will keep doing damage. I'm mainly concerned about how to prune or not prune to get the best production overall.

It's a tropical vine that blooms summer thru fall here in Houston and can die back if we have an unusual winter. Until this past mild winter, mine died back to the roots and came roaring back, so pruning wasn't an issue until now. But, then, I have lots of vines and don't know how to prune any of them, since they get so interwoven as they grow.

When you say "built-in reservoir", do you mean it's one of those self-watering/water-well pots? Or do you mean a fitted tray at the bottom (which is what it looks like to me)? I would say it's overwatering - too much, then sitting in, then battling with over-rich water from the continual fertilizing. If it is simply sitting in a tray, I would take off the tray and raise the pot onto some stones or - anything stable to get it off the ground. Let it dry out a bit and no more fertilizing at present. Be prepared to lost more leaves and have to chop it back a bit more but if it survives it should then bush out very nicely

From the NY Botanic Garden: It is always a good idea to prune it back before you transfer it into your home. Cut the vine back so that it is a comfortable size for your home–by half is fine–less or more will also work. It will grow slowly during the winter months. You do not need to encourage growth at this time of year by fertilizing the plant, just water it when it begins to dry out. Sometime in February, give the plant another good pruning and begin to fertilize it once a month. Mandevilla flowers on new growth. By pruning and fertilizing the plant, you are working to give it an early start so that when you place it outside in May or June it will take off and soon be covered with flowers. If you are growing a mandevilla in your home, it is a good idea to lower your thermostat to somewhere in the 60s or low 70s, otherwise it may get too dry. The second option for over-winter your mandevilla is to allow it go dormant. Keep the vine outside until it gets nice and cool and then move it into a cool garage or basement that maintains a winter temperature above freezing, around 50?F is ideal. In this scenario you should cut the plant back hard, to about 12 inches. Occasionally give it water so that it doesn’t dry out, but essentially leave it alone. Bring it inside when spring is just around the corner and let it start to grow. Then set it outside and enjoy this beautiful plant throughout the summer.