The newer CR6 modules can fit into several 5" cans now - see Cree's spec sheet which now states it will fit "most 6â and some 5â recessed housings". And as it turns out, I just installed some CR6's in 5" cans (unknown manufacturer, but they were IC new construction housings whose openings were exactly 5" diameter). Some "5 inch" housings actually have even larger diameters - the H550ICAT linked to above is 5-1/2" diameter, although I've never tried it with those. Still, I wish Cree would offer a TrueWhite (90+ CRI) floodlamp in BR30/PAR30 and BR40/PAR38 sizes with just the bulb, without an integral trim baffle, which would ease installation and reduce cost for retrofits where you already have a trim bezel. For new construction, having a built-in trim kit is more cost-effective since it eliminates the need to buy that part separately which saves $10-$15 per lamp, making the TrueWhite CR6 (a.k.a. EcoSmart ECO-575L) competitive in price with the BR30 floodlamp bulbs from Cree or Lighting Science (also sold at HD as an EcoSmart), both of which currently are $20 but are about 80 CRI and the difference is obvious in light quality in back-to-back comparisons - of those three only the ECO-575L gives off light that looks as good (almost) as an incandescent or halogen light bulb. Recent versions of that lamp module, dispite the same designation, are rated at 625 lumens.

Yes, I mentioned UCL. I can add those questions here too, if you want them. ;) GC mentioned tape. Another contractor I've had doing some other stuff mentioned pucks. I've become enamored with the Environmental Lights ultra thin system. I have emailed them questions. It's been a couple days, I'll probably call them today. Today, the electrician is prepping for outlets for the UCL in three spots where these wall cabinets will be: --next to fridge --each of the cabinets flanking the range I haven't zero'd in on a system yet, but that seems okay. I am unsure if I'll want lights over the washer and dryer. In the past, that's been a clutter catching area. Of course I'm hoping that it won't be now with better storage, but...we'll see. I think, at least with the EL system I think I understand pretty well. I can run all the lighting on that wall with one power supply and have the wire connectors connecting the different strips, and I don't really need the second outlet on that wall. But if I go with something different, I might need it just for that second wall cabinet by the range OR I might need it for the W/D area. (The wall behind the W/D is masonry, no way I'm having an outlet added there.) A question I've got re: the EL system is if I can have those three outlets on one switch, and have two or three power supplies plugged into them as needed. I think that is fine. The bigger question that I don't think I like the answer to is about dimming. And I think my mindset at this point is to not worry about dimming for the UCL. They make this stuff to be UCL, I'm going to assume it's a good brightness for it's intended purpose. I've never had UCL, so I have no frame of reference. Once I figured out the pieces that I think I need from EL, the price was a bit more than I was thinking of. However, there's the benefit that I understand it. :) I think. I'm open to other, less expensive, good systems. But I need to understand them. As always, thoughts/suggestions welcomed.

There are CREE LR4 lights. These can be found at the website I've linked to. The price is ~ $178 (housing + trim + LED lamp module). The price for a LR6 is ~ $90+. If you need to use non edison base modules, the HD version of the CR6 will not do. Here is a link that might be useful: LR4 polar-ray

First, about the can trim. The "clear" trim (silvery) and "haze" trim (dull golden) are designed to reflect the most light while not producing much glare. The black baffle trim reflects the least glare. Personally, I dislike the look of all three of these. I prefer white baffle trim. I would rather put up with a little glare when they are on and have them disappear better into the ceiling when they are off. Secondly, the size issue. I chose 5" cans for my 8' kitchen ceiling because I think that size is the best tradeoff. The 4" cans don't spread their light very wide, so you need more of them, getting the "swiss cheese" look. The 6" cans are less attractive to me due to their large size. If you want fluorescent, you can buy a special 5" can made to hold the pin-base type of fluorescent bulb. That's what I did because I live in California, and a certain percentage of fluorescent lighting is required here as an energy-saving measure. As rjr220 said, fluorescents can't be dimmed, although I did manage to find some bulbs with acceptably an acceptably warm color, so I don't hate them. I haven't seen fluorescent floodlights made to fit in a 5" can, but they might exist. What I did over the sink is the 5" can with a PAR 30 50 Watt bulb on a dimmer, which is what I really prefer. These put out plenty of light, much more than the fluorescents do. In older parts of my house I have 6" cans that I put fluorescent bulbs in. They put out decent light, but I think the 5" size looks MUCH better. Juno is considered a better brand than Halo. It is supposed to be a bit better constructed, and has many more trim options. I have 5" Juno in the kitchen, and 6" Halo in my office. What I dislike about the Halo is that when you look up at them, you can see around the lightbulb into the guts of the can light. The Junos are not like that. The newest option with is energy saving are the LED cans, which Juno makes in 5" and 6". I don't know much about them because they have only become available recently. I think they are more expensive. You might want to check the lighting forum, also. Good luck with your renovation.