It definitely needs repotting. The interveinal chlorosis might be nutritional, but it looks more characteristic of foliage that is in the process of being shed - ie the plant is translocating pigments & nutrients out of the leaves for use in other plant parts. Here is what my thinking is: If you prune it back now, you'll be pruning it back to already compromised foliage that is likely to be shed in the near future - not a good move because it leaves the tree unable to make it's own food. If you REALLY want to rejuvenate the tree, I'll help you, but anything you do, other than a full repot, is only going to give the tree a temporary lift. Actually, I just left this piece (below) from one of my other posts on another forum here. Read through it, please, for an illustration of the difference between a repot and potting up. If you do decide to repot, I can give you step by step instructions, starting with what to do now, so you can have the tree back on track by summer's end. If you decide to go forward, we can talk about suitable soils and a fertilizer regimen the tree will respond well to. The timing of certain procedures is closely related to energy management, which gets too little consideration by most growers tending trees in containers. Because repotting and root pruning seem to be most misunderstood on the list of what it takes to maintain trees that will continually grow at close to their genetic potential, I will include some observations about those procedures to open the discussion. I have spent literally thousands of hours digging around in root-balls of trees (let's allow that trees means any woody plant material with tree-like roots) - tropical/subtropical trees, temperate trees collected from the wild and temperate nursery stock. The wild collected trees are a challenge, usually for their lack of roots close to the trunk, and have stories of their own. The nursery stock is probably the closest examples to what most of your trees are like below the soil line, so I'll offer my thoughts for you to consider or discard as you find fitting. I've purchased many trees from nurseries that have been containerized for long periods. Our bonsai club, just this summer, invited a visiting artist to conduct a workshop on mugo pines. The nursery (a huge operation) where we have our meetings happened to have purchased several thousand of the mugos somewhere around 10 - 12 years ago and they had been potted-up into continually larger containers ever since. Why relate these uninteresting snippets? In the cases of material that has been progressively potted-up only, large perennial roots occupied nearly the entire volume of the container, plant vitality was in severe decline, and soil in the original root-ball had become so hard that in some cases a chisel was required to remove it. In plants that are potted-up, rootage becomes entangled. As root diameters increase, portions of roots constrict flow of water and nutrients through other roots, much the same as in the case of girdling or encircling roots on trees grown in-ground. The ratio of fine, feeder roots to more lignified and perennial roots becomes skewed to favor the larger, and practically speaking, useless roots. Initial symptoms of poor root conditions are progressive diminishing of branch extension and reduced vitality. As rootage becomes continually compressed and restricted, branch extension stops and individual branches might die as water/nutrient translocation is further compromised. Foliage quality may not (important to understand) indicate the tree is struggling until the condition is severe, but if you observe your trees carefully, you will find them increasingly unable to cope with stressful conditions - too much/little water, heat, sun, etc. Trees that are operating under conditions of stress that has progressed to strain, will usually be diagnosed in the end as suffering from attack by insects or other bio-agents while the underlying cause goes unnoticed. I want to mention that I draw distinct delineation between simply potting up and repotting. Potting up temporarily offers room for fine rootage to grow and do the necessary work of water/nutrient uptake, but these new roots soon lignify, while rootage in the old root mass continues to grow and become increasingly restrictive. The larger and larger containers required for potting-up & the difficulty in handling them also makes us increasingly reluctant to undertake even potting-up, let alone undertake the task of repotting/root-pruning which grows increasingly difficult with each up-potting. So we are clear on terminology, potting up simply involves moving the plant with its root mass and soil intact, or nearly so, to a larger container and filling in around the root/soil mass with additional soil. Repotting, on the other hand, includes the removal of all or part of the soil and the pruning of roots, with an eye to removing the largest roots, as well as those that would be considered defective. Examples are roots that are dead, those growing back toward the center of the root mass, encircling, girdling or j-hooked roots, and otherwise damaged roots. I often explain the effects of repotting vs potting up like this: Let's rate growth/vitality potential on a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the best. We're going to say that trees in containers can only achieve a growth/vitality rating of 9, due to the somewhat limiting effects of container culture. Lets also imagine that for every year a tree goes w/o repotting or potting up, its measure of growth/vitality slips by 1 number, That is to say you pot a tree and the first year it grows at a level of 9, the next year, an 8, the next year a 7. Lets also imagine we're going to go 3 years between repotting or potting up. Here's what happens to the tree you repot/root prune: year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 repot year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 repot year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 You can see that a full repotting and root pruning returns the plant to its full potential within the limits of other cultural influences for as long as you care to repot/root prune. Looking now at how woody plants respond to only potting up: year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 pot up year 1: 8 year 2: 7 year 3: 6 pot up year 1: 7 year 2: 6 year 3: 5 pot up year 1: 6 year 2: 5 year 3: 4 pot up year 1: 5 year 2: 4 year 3: 3 pot up year 1: 4 year 2: 3 year 3: 2 pot up year 1: 3 year 2: 2 year 3: 1 This is a fairly accurate illustration of the influence tight roots have on a woody plant's growth/vitality. You might think of it for a moment in the context of the longevity of bonsai trees vs the life expectancy of most trees grown as houseplants, the difference between 4 years and 400 years, lying primarily in how the roots are treated.color> Good luck! Let me know if you would like more help. Al

G - what Dave said. I always tell people considering marginal (timing) repots to consider whether or not they think the tree is likely to expire before June next when deciding whether or not to repot. Usually, the answer is pretty clear, but not always. Given the number of ficus that accompany their owners to this and other forum pages in search of relief of the suffering caused by soils that retain too much water, I think we can say that ficus are picky about water and how they are watered. It really can't be seen any other way. I'll explain after I redundantly note at the risk of being redundant, the number of people that have watering issues with ficus (hundreds and hundreds on this forum alone on an annual basis) is a pretty clear indication that the little snots are just looking for an opportunity to pitch a fit and toss their leaves about the room if you get the watering wrong. If when we water a portion of the soil remains saturated, it limits root function - no air for the roots occupying saturated soil = limited root function. That can't be argued ...... sort of like, 'run a marathon while breathing through a drinking straw, expect to come in last'. Any doubters? ..... and peat does have lots of nutrients locked in the hydrocarbon chains that make up the particles. It's just that those hydrocarbon chains aren't easy for soil biota to cleave. IOW, peat doesn't break down fast enough in containers to provide all the nutrition a plant needs. That's why they invented fertilizers - so we could apply them not to heavily and not too lightly, ratherly, just rightly. Al

The cultural wants of F elastica and F lyrata are virtually the same, so what works for one will work as well for the other. If you are having trouble with one or the other in either grow medium, it is not the medium, there is something else in play. Let me know if you want help trying to put a care regimen together that almost all the plants you're likely to grow will appreciate, no matter which of the two media you choose to grow in. While the primary difference between the two mixes is, the 5:1:1 mix holds more water, some of it as perched water, both are far superior to most off-the-shelf products based on almost all fine material, usually peat or some combination of peat, compost, composted forest products, or coir. Al

I did the same thing last fall with a big sprawling and very sad looking schefflera that had lost most of its leaves, and found the same thing--virtually no fine roots, just thick and mostly woody encircling roots. I did prune almost all the thick roots but left one woody one alone to hold the plant up while I filled the pit with 5:1:1, shaking and tapping the pot to make sure the mix filled in all the books and crannies. Be aware that the plant will sulk longer than if you repotted in the spring, but it will grow a few new leaves in the winter and really liven up in late spring and summer with longer days and more light. A south or southwest facing window will help, and I recommend adding supplemental light in the winter, even if it's just a few 100W bright white (5000-6500k) CFL or LED bulbs in regular fixtures close to the leaves. All my plants, including the repotted scheff, went from practically dormant to getting new leaves after I added the light in late fall.