Is the plant's capacity to support its unpruned upper compromised at all by any root pruning that takes place first? Yes, it is. To some degree that can be offset by siting the plant in the shade and keeping it out of the wind. Also, if you're repotting from a water-retentive soil to a well-aerated soil, the improvement in root function and the number of fine roots usually becomes quickly evident & additionally helps the recovery. If, for instance, you have a healthy 3 gallon tree and you reduce the roots by say 75%, you might need to remove a substantial volume of foliage to prevent the tree from seemingly indiscriminately shedding what it can't support. It's better to select the branches that don't compliment your vision for the tree's design than to let the tree decide. Also, you can partially defoliate if you remove a LOT of roots and the tree will quickly replace lost leaves as soon as the roots' ability to keep up with the canopy is back in balance. Everything revolves around the roots - the roots have to be able to support new growth before it can occur. >> Best time to do extensive root work (repot) is between Father's Day - 4th of July. Al, is this applicable to other trees or to other plants in general? I grow tropicals indoors with no direct light all year round. Does someone's zone affect this best repotting window? Plants have internal clocks (search "endogenous rhythm" and/or "circadian rhythm") that tell them when they are supposed to grow. I keep all my tropical trees (about 75 of them) under lights in a basement grow area. There is only one window at the far end of the basement, so it supplies no usable light. Somehow, the trees know when the vernal equinox is eminent and begin to exhibit more vigorous growth, despite the only usable light they get is artificial and on a 16/8 schedule. I don't think the Father's Day - July 4th rule of thumb is nearly as important if your trees were outdoors or living on sunlight, but I'd still say that even if there were no changes in artificial light intensity/duration throughout the year, that the time frame I suggested would still be the best time. If your trees grow actively all year and they're healthy under artificial light, repot any time you have a mind to. The most significant effect of that sort of 'out of season' repotting would probably be a little longer recovery before active growth can resume. For trees that AREN'T healthy, the timing is a more significant consideration. I don't think a growers zone affects the best window much, but I would say that the closer to the equator you get, the wider the window becomes. In consideration of the best timing, I have a much narrower window than someone who lives in south FL or TX. Growers in those locales can repot with fast recovery anytime in Jun or July, and the effects of repotting in May or Aug - mid-Sep are much easier on the plant than they would be closer to the 40-45th parallels. Al

see moved this pic to the other post ken

The first and the last are the mother plant that's as tall as my lips ( im5f 6in) the middle is a cutting I rooted from one leaf and one node two years ago!! It's ridiculous how this plant spits out growth I love it! I don't see many tree like rubber tree plants anymore, mine is bigger then most people I know. Then again I don't really get out much lately ;)

I found this written by a researcher at Central Florida Research and Education Center "Ficus elastica, the India rubber tree, wasgrown extensively as an indoor tree during the early 1950's and earlier. Today it is difficult to find commercial sources of the plant because it has been replaced with several cultivars listed below: `Decora' was a significant new cultivar at the time of its introduction, about 1950. With its broad elliptical leaves and more attractive growth habit, it soon replaced the species. `Doescheri' has the narrow leaf shape of the species and a striking variegated pattern of green, grayish green, yellow, white and a pink midrib and petiole. `Robusta' is a compact form which resembles `Decora', but is more compact and free branching. `Rubra' has dark, wine red leaves when grown in full sun. Much of the red color is lost as the plant grows under reduced light intensity. `Rubra' is also listed under the names `Burgundy' and `Abidjan'. `Sophia' is a new green cultivar with leaves which are smaller and more rounded than `Robusta'."