The duct covers are available in 6, 12, 18 and 24" sizes. Contrary to what capecodcook says the Wolf covers are NOT telescopic, they are a welded, seamless design and are very high quality pieces that match the finish on your hood exactly. I have the Wolf Pro Island version and the duct cover is a gorgeous piece that is the structural mounting for the hood (and it should be gorgeous for the price!). Any Wolf dealer can order the duct cover you need. If they won't or can't, find another dealer that knows what they are doing.

Actually on the FAQ page it DOES say it would be appropriate for concrete roofs: "What kind of roofs will Z-Stop work on? It can be used on all wood, composition, concrete, metal or flat tile roof shingles. However, it is not suited for Spanish Tile roofing products because their shape does not allow rainwater to flow continuously from the ridge cap all the way down the roof." We are planning on a new roof in the spring and someone had told me about using zinc. I was thrilled to see this link. Somehow I imagined that this would be an expensive, but necessary, addition to the new roof. What a pleasant surprise to discover how little it costs! And while it may be noticeable, it won't be nearly as obvious as the green thick moss I have there now!

This could be just a matter of not scoring the tape before pulling it, no? When you tape and then paint over the tape, you have created a seal there between the trim and the walls. You can't really just pull the tape without breaking that seal first or you may pull mass amounts of wall paint off in sheets. You can break that seal with a sharp putty knife or razor knife. This paint is not cured...in a month of so it will be stuck a lot better than it is now. I'm not saying there isn't an adhesion issue...there may very well be one, but I am saying that it could also be just a matter of not scoring the tape before pulling it.

DavidR, Vith - thank you for responding and my apologies for not returning earlier. DavidR - I can understand why it's difficult to interact with someone like me who doesn't much understand what they're talking about. Reading over your comments, well - there's much to do and say. First, you're completely correct that the wiring here is suss at best. Suddenly, however, I worried whether I'd traced the breakers correctly though dh working on the wiring in that one triple counter wall receptacle with two plugs and a switch - if it hadn't been all off on one breaker, we'd have known that by now. I did double check though and indeed, against code, that is what is going into that box, and it was that box that had the Weird Stuff (R) happening to it. I don't even know whether the water heater plugged in there was at all involved beyond simply being plugged in there. As it still works I rather suspect not. Another red herring. So there's no mistake about that receptacle. However I have got the dishwasher mischaracterized. In fact, I can't at the moment figure out what breaker it is on; I'm too lazy to keep hauling back and forth to re-figure that out either. Needs two people. Yet when I said it was on a breaker with a plug, I may have used the wrong language - the dishwasher -- and I do believe they are all like this unless I am mistaken - but it functions via a plug into the wall. you have to plug it in for it to work; it's not wired in. So it's that plug into which the dishwasher plugs that I was saying was one breaker (I just cannot now figure out which one, drat it). So ... that may not be evidence of miswiring. Though, in general, i think you are right there's much of it. Yes, the speed oven is 240V, dedicated double breaker. The house's wiring always was a nightmare, with the person contracted to do it not showing up and then dropping us altogether, we called someone else, they were hugely flaky -- it was a mess. Just a mess. I suppose I should be surprised nothing bad's happened to date. And to be fair, I vaguely recall the undercounter switch going onto the same breaker as the plugs might have been on my instruction and understood (at the time) to be not kosher, but our only "retroactive" choice. Regarding the speed oven - I was uneasy about the wrong fuse in there and ordered more from the super-nice company littelfuse.com (highly recommended). When I went to swap it out of course the wrong-sized one that had been stuffed in there had bent the connectors and broken a little plastic exterior shield, presumably. I am irked. I managed to bend back the connectors to close the circuit and used a bit of electrical tape on the outside of this 'connector-sarcophagus' (that's what it looks like) to get it back in working condition. I hope that's not unsafe but I think it seems OK. I should have taken a picture but forgot. Everything's working fbow, including speed oven, improper receptacle with two plugs and switch on the counter (different breaker, but what was weirdly blown formerly). I get your point about the impossibility of diagnosing Weird Stuff from afar. Or close up. On reflection I wonder whether the dial-selector on the MW could be potentially faulty having sent a surge. I say that because it was upon twisting that that the Weird Stuff happened. No hint of it since though. Dunno. I like your point about having a good, old-time electrician actually inspect the wiring. I honestly have no idea how to locate someone to do that though. And I can only imagine how many hours such an inspection would take. Meaning, how much it would have to cost. I know it's cheaper than a house fire, but it's a daunting prospect all the same. Vith, thanks, yes - I think I was addressing your point above. I saw no evidence of moisture in the MW which doesn't mean it wasn't there. The problem has not recurred. I don't know whether my original observation that the MW sounded a little loud the three uses prior to it ceasing to work is a valid and meaningful observation or just a red herring. I'm not sure such things can fail slowly. I don't notice "loudness" now, and everything's working well. If any of this happens again I suppose I will call the expensive Miele folks. DavidR - your theory about physical closeness to a power surge just tripping the GFIs seems about the best I can think of; that's sort of what we've been operating under the assumption of. That leaves the underlying question of what caused the initial surge. And I shouldn't forget about the back refridge also having its fuse blow though the timing may be off a little bit and I highly doubt there's any physical proximity of those wires. But taken altogether, I think it is all cause for serious investigations should more of this continue. Thanks, everybody, for responding. I appreciate the objective evaluation of the speed oven. It gets a lot of use, which wasn't what I'd anticipated upon buying it. But that reflects how nice it's turned out to be. It goes undercounter with zero hot-air issues, unlike most if not all other brands (can't remember now), and the 240V gives it a lot of power (obviously). I do like the thing still, but that may be an irrational conclusion. It's a bit of a functional lynchpin in the kitchen. Having a second oven is very helpful, and though I never had a MW for 30 years, I find I like it very much now, and wouldn't really want one on the counter and haven't any wall space, so this doubling-up has been very important functionally. Therefore I'll give it more leeway; however if this problem returns or persists then I suppose I may have to get onto your lawn ;) BTW, the Miele actually didn't fail spectacularly, it failed unremarkably. It was the replacement of the fuse and simply switching the dial to "MW", not even turning the MW on that was spectacular. And, well, it seems plausible the spectacular failure is as much due to wiring as the appliance? Not even sure at this point. Thanks, everyone!