I agree with Keriann. Yes, you should really let them dry out. Matter of fact, once my seedlings are as big as yours, I let them dry out pretty much all the way before I water again. You can tell they need watered when you pick up the flat and it feels light as a feather. Then after you water, it's much heavier. Your method of bottom watering is quite unique, I must say. I think that most folks bottom water the way I do, which is to say setting the cells or cups into a tray of water and letting the plant absorb as much as it wants until you see moisture on the surface of the soil (usually takes anywhere from 5-20 min). Now, I can't say for sure what positive or negative effects your method of watering might have, except that it sure sounds like a pain in the hiney to me, and I somehow doubt that the soil is getting properly saturated. You want to simulate mother nature; a soaking rain. Then you want to let the soil dry out. That's how it is in nature. Roots need water yes, because the plant needs water, but then they need to dry out and get oxygen. Damp soil all the time = no oxygen to the roots. Now, I can't say for certain what part of your program is causing your issues, but I would start bottom watering them as described by letting them absorb water sitting in a tray. I think you will find that using this method, you should only have to water every 3-4 days, or less. I would lay off the ferts for a while, and then make sure only to fertilize when the soil is already damp, or you will burn the roots. I just mix the fert with water, then pour into a tray and bottom water as usual. Give this a shot, see if that doesn't help.

Hi, I've had a golden pothos for a few months now and it's been doing great until I recently noticed it had yellow leaves where it seemed to be getting too much light, (I have it hanging in a macrame hanger) I moved it from a south facing window to a north facing ING window. (In the same room. The room is my living room and it's the brightest room in my house) it then developed some mealybug which I scraped off and sprayed down with a mix of water alcohol and soap. That went away and now a week later I notice all kinda of brown spots in the leaves :( is it from moving it or from spraying it to kill the mealybugs? What are the brown spots? It won't let me attach photos but it's brown all on the underside of the leaves and some are deep enough that it shows on the top of the leaves as well. They aren't moist or sticky, I can't rub them off. And I watered the plant recently because it started to droop again. It's in a terracotta pot

Any damage that is showing on your plants is mechanical - that means it came to be from shipping and other transport, handling or jostling. It is not the result of diseases or insects nor does it look like any watering issues. In reality, these plants look pretty darn good considering most big box stores do not take the slightest bit of care with their plants (hence the evidence of damage you are seeing). As to fertilizing, you need to identify your plants and then do a bit of research, as not all plants benefit from similar fertilization methods nor do they require it at the same time. Cacti and succulents have different needs than do tropical foliage plants and flowering houseplants (orchids, African violets, flowering gift plants) have yet another set of needs. In general, an all purpose liquid fertilizer used at 1/2 to 1/3 strength with every other watering is appropriate for most tropicals during their primary growing season (March through October) but you can get by with quite a bit less. I'd suggest you post this on the House Plants forum both to get accurate ID's on your plants and their advice as to when, how much and with what to best fertilize what you have.

I tend to agree. If you can repot into just slightly damp soil, cutting off blackened and damaged root, you might be able to save it--I've managed with my pothos and it's now very happy many years later. Nowadays, I water my pothos "when I remember," which is usually when I notice it's wilted. Rather wilted. Once every ten days tops, with the plant receiving bright, filtered light through a paper shade and a southeastern window, and occasional southeastern sunlight if I have the window shade open (spring and fall, sometimes, winter, often). If you can't repot it with fresh soil, this is...not canonical, but sometimes works. Lift the plant. Shake off the soil into the pot and the towel/paper you put the pot on. Cut away black/dead roots and some healthy root around that to get ahead of the damage. Take the existing soil and microwave it until it's steaming hot. We're talking boiling. Spread the soil and let it cool and dry a bit--the plant will be just fine as long as it's inside or in shade for the time being, pothos are tough. Repot in the old, now sterilized and somewhat drier soil. Don't water the new plant until the soil is rather dry. Yeah, sounds crazy, but I've done it. :-) If all else fails, take 6" trimmings off your old pothos and root them in water. Bingo, new pothos! Start in a fresh, new pot with fresh potting soil (the old pot is fine, just sterilize it with a 1 part bleach to 10 parts water solution. Throw out the old soil). Use a light, airy potting soil that dries quickly.