Parakalo (your welcome) Amdy. A)In a cup cut in small pieces 3 cloves of garlic and add 2 table spoons olive oil or (is better) machine car oil -cover the cup and leave it for 24 hours. After 24 hours strain the solution in your sprayer bottle - add 2 table spoon of dish soap and 2/3 of a galon water (not cold if it is winter), shake well the bottle and spray both sides of your plumeria leaves (early morning before the sun is on the top of your plants)spray also lightly the top of the soil. Repeat the same formula after 10 days for the new generation from eggs mites. Next day of using the above mentioned formula, clean the leaves of your plants by spraying them with water. Also is very important to Sow in each pot 1-2 garlic cloves, the plant of garlic keeps away any dangerous insect from your plants. B. Add 1 teaspoon of dog shampoo with pyrethrin with 1/3 gallon of water in your sprayer bottle and spray the leaves of your plumerias on both sides, it kill all the mites. C.A home remedy fungicide : 1 part of fresh full milk (not for slim) with 9 parts of water in your sprayer bottle and spray the leaves. That is a fungicide formula and also shine the leaves of your plants. D. a home remedy for maggot - worms in your pot soil : throw on the top of the soil of each pot 1 table spoon hot mustard in powder and water your pot, OR if you have ready to use hot mustard add 1 table spoon in 1/3 gallon of water and water your pot. E.For Ants : Add in a 1/3 of gallon of water 1 table spoon vinegar and water your pot. Vinegar also has very useful trace elements for the plants and also reduce the soil PH. John from Athens-Greece

Ouch. As someone who has battled Pacific mite for years, I know exactly what you're going through. There are so few viable solutions, unfortunately... There are a few things you can try to keep the mite populations down: they really like hot, dry, dusty conditions and stressed plants, so the more you avoid those conditions the better. - If you have a lot of dust around, consider wetting things down periodically in the late morning or early afternoon to keep it from flying around and coating the leaves. That will also help to increase the humidity and cool down the leaves. - Mulch well to help retain moisture, which will reduce plant stress; it will also eliminate dust. - Keep the plants well-fed, well-watered, and vigorous. I've found that mites are much less of a problem when the plants are growing well with lots of new foliage. Lots of water and food is probably my primary defense against mites now. - My second line of defense is picking the right varieties. Certain plants tend to attract mites like magnets (marigolds come to mind). Certain varieties of tomato are more susceptible than others as well; I've given up on growing anything with wispy foliage because those get totally hammered as soon as the hot weather comes in. I miss out on some good pastes and hearts, but there it is. Potato leaf and rugose varieties have almost no trouble with mites unless the plants are really struggling. - Predatory mites are sold for greenhouses; with that sort of pest population, you might benefit from them even out in the open. Check some organic supply catalogs. - Be vigilant. All it takes is one plant getting overwhelmed by mites, then they have a foothold to take over the rest from. Yanking or severely pruning one plant is better than losing all of them, if you notice that one is faring badly. If there's a variety or species that seems to do much worse, look for a different one for next year. The mites are tough to kill, so we have to adapt and learn. I wish you the best of luck. --Alison

Do not use soapy water - I know it is often recommended, but it dissolves wax on the leaves...the only soap to be used on plants should be true vegetable-based Castile soap (olive oil based). I do not have experience with neem oil, so can't comment. Lots of marks appear to be oedema (the hard, black bumps), even the bigger dry-looking patches. That happens when plant cant transpire all the water received. Other is possibility of powdery mildew, encouraged by high humidity. What kind of soil/mix is it potted in? Where is this plant kept? How much sunlight is it receiving? Even if you say it dropped lots of leaves, it looks quite etiolated - spaces between internodes are too big. That suggest not enough light. I would also suggest potting plants higher in the pot - the soil level should be higher. That will also help with soil drying up faster and general air circulation that is also important for succulents.

I think I see some fine webbing. Do you have a close up photo or a photo of your jade? Are you sure those are not just regular spider webs? What kind of exposure are the plants in? It would also help knowing your general location/growing zone...add to your name pls.