I wager that all four would be extremely unhappy inside over the winter. The canna might be considered marginally hardy in your area, but should still be stored in a cool, dormant condition. Be prepared to water your plants occasionally over the winter and protect them from severe freezes. The roots will be much more prone to damage growing in containers than if planted in the ground, but you can mitigate that by some protection.

his is a quote from something I wrote about tending ficus in containers & regularly link other ficus growers to: Although many Ficus begin life as an understory tree and are generally quite shade tolerant, most actually spend their life struggling through the shaded understory until they eventually reach the forest canopy, where they finally find full sun and can begin to come into their own. We agree that ficus do better in bright light, but bright light doesn't counter a plant's tendency to be apically dominant - i.e. plants wanting to grow long & tall instead of short and full. In fact, variability in a plant's tendency toward apical dominance is what determines the difference between whether the plant grows as a tree or a bush. F elastica is VERY apically dominant, while F pumila is not, and the growth habit of the pumila is radically different than elastica. Pinching a plant forces increased ramification (more branches) while plant mass is being REDUCED. A plant in full sun only grows more branches as its mass increases. Fullness is a measure of the ratio between the number of branches and the plant's mass, so which plant will be fuller - the pinched plant or the unpinched plant? I already allowed that the shorter internodes created by bright light make it easier to keep the plant compact, but the most effective tool is pinching. Pinching greatly increases (maximizes) the number of growing points (apices) on a plant. The more growing points there are on a plant, the thinner the plant has to spread it's energy allocation. There is less energy per growing point going to each growing point if there are 100 growing points as opposed to fifty. Increasing the number of growing points makes for shorter internodes, which means there HAS to be more leaves and branches in the canopy - pretty much the definition of bushiness. As a bonsai aficionado, I work with containerized plants every day. Few are more intimately familiar with what it takes to increase ramification (fullness/bushiness) than the bonsai practitioner. I think that if we want to look to whether or not what I said is demonstrably correct/incorrect or factually accurate, we need look no further than some of the pictures of ficus in containers I've posted on these forums over the years. Bright light is an important part of helping to keep a plant bushy, because of the shorter internodes thing, but our most valuable tool, by far, is pinching. Al

Your plant is a Peperomia obtusifolia, aka 'Baby Rubber Plant'. But that name is a bit unhelpful as 'Rubber Plant' usually denotes Ficus elastica and until I saw the picture I thought you had a baby one of those ;-). They are very easy to propagate just by cutting pieces off at a node and inserting in growing medium, or even a glass of water. You'll find plenty of help if you have more questions over on the House Plant Forum which is much livelier than this one. Here is a link that might be useful: House Plant Forum

Be very judicious about your watering. Make SURE the soil is nearly dry deep in the pot before you water. The plant will tolerate full sun outdoors. If it's not acclimated to full sun, do so gradually. Withhold fertilizer until you see new growth. If your soil is very water-retentive, you should add some ballast to the bottom of the pot. Ballast, done correctly, reduces the amount of soil that CAN hold perched water, and in doing so reduces the amount of excess water the soil can hold o/a. Example: If you nearly fill the bottom of the pot with some sort of ballast, you can actually confine the entire perched water column to a very small volume of soil - 'nearly' being a key word. You don't want to fill the bottom entirely. Note how the PWT is the same ht in all the pictures. That can be used to the growers advantage. Note the different ways (below) that excess water can be eliminated. Examples C and D are illustrative of what anyone can do to reduce the volume of perched water in heavy soils. It's so easy to reduce the o/a volume that anyone using heavy soils should consider employing some sort of technique to help mitigate the limitations levied by soggy soils. Al Al