I wouldn't recommend putting the tree outdoors at this time as if it is in a weakened state it will die. If this is a common Chinese Elm (Ulmus Parvifolia) it can be kept as a "indoor Bonsai" during the winter and takes on a more evergreen state. I agree with organic_mrbest that Neem is the best, it not only works for killing many insects and some fungus but is a great deterrent. Best of all it 100% organic which means you don't have to worry about it harming the plant you or any pets. That what I've been using for some time now as a stand alone insect repellent. In the future though I would recommend not misting the plant with water while infected, spider mite actually like the moisture. Also if using a soap water mixture it is imperative to be sure that the soapy water does not get into the soil is this will make the problem worse. As far as what to do now I would keep the Bonsai out of direct light, placing it in a lightly shaded area until new growth starts to appear. I would also recommend putting the tree in a humidity tray (If not already) to help since its in an indoor setting. Depending on its size you could use a simple plate or go to a craft store etc.. and buy a serving tray to use. Buy some middle sized gravel (around the size of your pinky nail) to place in the tray, fill it with water and place the tree on it. Make sure the water does NOT touch the bottom of the pot though. DO NOT USE fertilizer when a tree is stressed. I usually also give the tree Trace Elements (which is different than fertilizer) when they are down, but not always necessary. You can find in some online bonsai store or possibly eBay or if you would like I have a friend who has his own buisness that sells it. Also make sure the soil dries sufficiently when you water and if possible try to keep the tree on a slightly dryer side. Hope your tree comes through and good luck. -Mike

I found this on Piviones Riviere's website. WHAT IS THE BEST PERIOD TO PLANT ? How do you plant a peony? To obtain the best results in peony cultivation, pay very special attention to the planting process. *Planting bare roots should be done between September and mid-March. *It is better to plant peonies in the autumn so that the root system can grow before the leaves come out. *Planting can be done during the winter period even with frost during the night as long as it disappears during the daytime. *After March, due to the growing of leaves and vegetation, it is not recommended to plant bare root peonies. *If you want to plant later, we offer cultivated plants in containers that you can buy either from our nursery or at the flower shows we go to. *Tip : In case of frost when you receive our plants, place the parcel in a cool area  a cellar or a garage - and open the parcel. The individually packed plants can remain for a month in their packaging without any harm.

Yes, either that or use a skewer/pencil/'skinny' wooden dowel. When you pull it out & see some soil particles sticking to it, it's still too early to water. Or if you touch it to your cheeks or your hand & it feels cold on your skin, it is still too wet. Another way to check is to lift the pot - after a while you will recognize that if still 'heavy' - soil is wet. If much lighter - soil has drained. This :"weight test" work best if your plants are in water retentive (not gritty) soil. It will take a little time to remember how heavy or light the pot should be. It may not be practical if you have many plants. Most of my succulents (just about all) are potted in mix of gravel, perlite, turface (in various proportions), only some I added little soil to. I learned about potting mixes on this forum. Started using gritty mix (you can also search under that title) trying to get it exactly, but sometimes recommended ingredients are more difficult to find - depends where you live. And I water approx. 1/week, sometimes less - depends on temps indoors too. All my succulents have to be inside for the winter, otherwise I take all pots outside. Hardly water then, they get 'watered' when it rains (unless you have months of dry-rain less periods. If you really want to understand container-the soil, you could do lots of reading here: click here You would be able to mix according to what you can find locally. The 'trick' is good drainage. Rina edited-added photo: You may be able to see mix in the pot: it is turface, perlite & chicken grit. All are similar sized, and there isn't any soil there - I didn't have any suitable on hand, so didn't bother. This is a cutting, potted about 3 weeks ago. This post was edited by rina_ on Thu, Dec 25, 14 at 10:40

Found an article about purple passion plants, and it confirms that this kind of plant is very susceptible to root rot. https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/houseplants/purple-passion-plant/purple-passion-houseplants.htm when you check to see if it needs watering, you need to make sure the soil is not just dry on the surface, but you have to stick your finger down into the soil and not water it until it is dry about 0.75-1 inch down. This is a pretty good tip to use with all houseplants, not just this kind. Also, for this kind of plant that hates to get it’s leaves wet (African violets are like that too) it is best to water from the bottom instead of the top. What that means is to put water into the saucer or another basin, and let the soil soak up the water instead of pouring water onto the soil from the top. Because you’ll be letting it get pretty dry between waterings, you need to make sure it gets a nice deep drink when you do water it. You can either add water to the saucer, and check it every 10 min or so, adding more water as needed until it won’t soak up anymore, and then empty the saucer so it’s not just standing in water. Or, you can try my preferred method: put an inch or two of water in the sink (or a plastic container or basin of some sort) and set the pot (without the saucer) into the water, and let it sit there for awhile. Around 15 minutes to a half hour should be enough. The top of soil should feel slightly damp, and you will notice that the pot feels quite a bit heavier, too. Then empty the sink or pour out the basin and allow the pot to drain for several minutes. Once it’s not dripping water anymore (and you can tilt it a little and no more water comes out), it’s ready to be returned back home to it’s saucer. I like doing it that way, because I can do several plants at the same time, and I never have to worry about having a saucer accidentally overflow. My last couple of thoughts: don’t be discouraged! Getgoing had some good advice about how to possibly get a new cutting from this plant, so all may not be lost. And I can assure you that all plant lovers have lost plants before, despite our best intentions and efforts. So don’t give up! Maybe get another plant, perhaps one that’s a little more fool proof, while you’re waiting to see if your cutting(s) will root. I would recommend Pothos. They will let you know if they need water by drooping/wilting a little if it’s been a little too long, but they perk right up when you water them. It’s a great plant. If you have cats though, try a spider plant. A lot of house plants are toxic to pets, so always good to make sure everyone stays safe. Good luck!