I have a 1921 cedar shingle siding historic home that has been covered up with aluminum for the last 60 plus years.

I don't know but this is a good place to ask. In addition to this forum, do you have a local independent paint store? Like, one of those stores that's been in your neighborhood forever. Can also try a Ben Moore, Sherwin Williams or PPG store but it's crapshoot if you'll end up with someone who really knows what they're talking about.

Cedar has to go on firing strips or cedar breather and use stainless nails

And "Vaproshield" house wrap under the breather layer

I know what I'm talking about. Keep that plastic dude away from your house.

lol! "That plastic dude" :D

Pull the siding nails and very carefully fill the holes with clear latex caulk (if you're planning on keeping the original color.)

Shingles are the easiest siding to do spot-repairs. You literally pull one shingle and replace it with one of the same width.

Casey

Thank you to all that have responded!! It’s going to be really hard trying to replace some of them because they are almost 100 years old:( I’m going to give it a shot though.

It’s always a dilemma with old houses, eh!!

Unless you have endless money:)

I must say, the aged look of the shingles is quite beautiful to me.

Sounds like (from the above) that doing your spot repairs as needed could be the way to go, both esthetically and financially.

May I ask pros for more detail about how you would prep either for clear finish or paint if thats the route someone wanted to go? If wood is dark do you assume that its mildew (prob use deck clearner type product?) or is it just some natural aging (patina) of the wood that could take a clear finish over it? Just curious - dont have a shingle house at the moment but almost did once.

If the damage is limited conceivably OP could use an epoxy-base d wood hardener + wood fill product on it? Generally my experience with 100 yr old wood is :-) and not :-( This is likely still old growth timber and as such was hard as nails very unlike the farmed wood of today (and still is, if its not too rotted) Was so shocked when I got some cedar trim milled for my old porch at how soft and splintery it was - nothing like the existing wood.

And I would reiterate about trying to find someone local who is old house friendly and has wood restoration in his/her repertoire - either to do the actual work or you pay them for a consultation. Your plastic guys - siding, windows, etc. - have their own business model and ways of doing things so you really cant expect them to be knowledgeable in other methods. Its fine with me if thats what they want to do, but where I have a problem is when they dont recognize their limitations and make these pronouncements about how the old siding or windows have to go .... like its some kind of ulitimate truth. Consequently, a lot of people dont look any further and the end result is ... at least in my neck of the woods.... a lot of plastic-clad houses.

I contacted two different old home restoration people to come take a look and tell me what they think I should do. One is coming out today, yay!! I also contacted This Old House and they did recommend punching the nails in and filling with some wood filler. I bought a kit of Abatron wood restoration, which is supposed to be very easy to work with. I’m hoping someone else could let me know if they have ever had this kind of situation and what the end results were.

Thank you to all that have responded!!

Yes Ive used Abatron extensively on exterior repairs - including rebuilding 1 window sill with a chunk missing and 1 sash that had 2 corners completely rotted. Happy to say that 10 yrs later everything is still holding paint and solid. Should last many decades if done correctly.

Call them at Abatron if you have questions about how or what products to use - they're great! Someone actually answers the phone right away and gives you an answer - what a concept!

Will you be painting or staining or leaving as bare wood? The wood fill is white but can be tinted (or so Ive heard) a wood color. And/or do faux wood grain over it with paint. Please keep us posted!

You might also get some advice from The Craftsman Blog

Additionally, I'd join the American bungalow forum and the arts and crafts forum on FB.

It's probably not a good idea to use a coating that doesn't breathe like layers of primer and paint. I don't know if you can add a shade to Abatron, but it would be something to look into