heard on radio about putting squash plant in ground in an old stockin
jeanwedding. zone 6
6 years ago
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vgkg Z-7 Va
6 years agoUser
6 years agoRelated Discussions
how do you plant your squash?
Comments (5)Thanks for this topic! i also have been confused on 'hills' and have even heard at least one place that a 'hill' is not mounded ground, but just a spot where you sow multiple seeds...why is that called a hill then - idk.....in the beginning - I did the hills but was always frustrated that the packet said "hills" but didn't say something like 6" high and 10" wide, or 2" high and 5" wide or whatnot. When I did the hills, they all washed away with watering or rain before seedling emergency - so what's the point? i just did 2 seeds experimentally in one of raised beds, and they are up - well at least one as of my morning peeking... it is that "Trombetta di Albenga" seed my first try at it, and i am beyond excited - 1 to sample it's tasty goodness. I planted 2 before i read the instructions carefully, which said to sow 3- 4 seed 1" apart and thin to strongest seedling, having the next group 12 inches apart. Did only 2 because i didn't want to potentially waste 3-4 seeds on this early planting fraught with the unknown temps ahead, but I am not a thinner nature. 1 - what a waste of seeds! i will only save seeds from the best plants of course (just a notice at this so far, and certainly not up to the complexity of curcubit seed saving). If a plant is truly performing subpar, you can take it out at any time, but to decide which is best at 7-10 days old - well one of the seeds cracked at day 3 instead of day 6 so it's bigger....not sure if that is a recommendation for it beyond a fast germinator. 2 - I know i'm a little nuts - but i feel some sense of responsibility to these things I have called into life. Nursing and fussing and coaxing them to live, I can't just cut them down as they emerge....I'd much rather plant the seeds for the number of plants I want, and then replant where there are holes. that's generally just 2 weeks or so, and give a bit of succession planting into the timeline (which i'm always not doing, lol.....I never saw a space i didn't fill to capacity with available seed, and then wonder where I'm going to plant the rest of the garden, lol!) Anyhoo - so I've been doing it flat seeding, no thinning, with good results. I had an early yellow crookneck last year, planted 3 seeds, they all popped up, and went their separate ways, one e one s one w and it ended up taking up 1/2 of a 4x8 bed. Lots of produce! Did the same thing with a white scallop in another bed - only 2 came up, they got mad at each other and 1 went n and 1 went south, good yields and ds' fav summer squash so far! My biggest problem is NOT giving them enough space because in early spring I cannot conceive of how big they are going to get!...See MoreVertical squash to TRY to stop squash vine borers
Comments (27)Update that marigolds and nasturtiums without flowers did not repel the svb,neither did my homemade concoction of tobacco, redpeppers, black pepper, vegetable oil, and dish soap. It rained a few hours after I applied it, today new eggs all over them. I'm giving up organic at least with the svb, trying stuff with methoxychor, or best I've heard yet is this: "A second planting of summer squash made in early July will mature after adult borers have finished laying eggs. " Another nice suggestion: "Mulches are known to harbor squash bugs" http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/squash_pest.html "Iowa State University Organics Research Program conducted trials of various control methods for squash bug and squash vine borer. Researchers found that mulching with newspaper and hay, combined with tightly secured row covers on the plots (a level 2 control), provided very effective control of both weeds and squash bugs in pumpkin (C. pepo)Âespecially in the wet season of 2002.(4, 5) The row covers apparently excluded squash bugs, preventing them from entering to lay eggs. Gauze row covers (e.g., ReemayÂ, AgriforceÂ, AgribonÂ, TufbellÂ) [Section 205.206(b)(1),(2),(3)] physically exclude pests and prevent them from reaching the plants in large numbers. Preventive strategies have become more important with recognition of A. tristis as a probable disease vector. Hand picking and trapping of A. tristis, or slitting each vine to remove the larva, in the case of M. satyriniformis, represent attempts to control pests after they have begun rearing another generation in numbers sufficient to cause economic damage and pest buildup. Such labor-intensive controls may be uneconomical for large plantings." "Some products acceptable in organic vegetable production that are effective against squash bugs include diatomaceous earth, sabodilla, and neem oil. Growers that anticipate using materials to control heavy pest infestations must list these materials and the circumstances for their use in their organic systems plan. This plan must be submitted to and approved by the organic certifier before the producer uses any material." What is a sabodilla? I found a tree by that name, is it the same thing? Here is a link that might be useful: svb info...See Moreare all crookneck squash GMO ??
Comments (34)I realize I am coming in to this discussion a little late in the game, but I wanted to comment of Jason's comment. I agree with most of what you said, except for the testing part. There has been some testing done, but the long term affects may not be known for decades. As far as human health concerns go, I don't know of any tests related to that have been done except one about Brazil nut allergens in soybeans and people with severe allergies to nuts may be affected. Most studies that have been done have been done in relation to how the plant grows or how much crop is harvested. One of the major concerns however, is what kind of impact this will have on the environment. Is this going to cause us to lose any beneficial insects? Will "superweeds" be created? Also, are we going to cause bacteria and viruses to become stronger and resistant to treatment? These are concerns that will take a very long time to find out if they are valid or not. I just wrote an essay on this topic for Biology, and what I found out, is that 1) there are no mandatory labeling requirements on these foods to allow us consumers to choose if we want to eat the GM food or not. 2)The way the system has been set up by the government to monitor these crops is not very well organized. Three groups have been combined to do this and they aren't doing a very good job at it. The EPA is set up to regulate pesticides and if they are safe to use, however, because they see the crops such as the Bt laced corn is not related to pesticide sprays, so they do not have any real regulations set up for this. The FDA puts these foods in the same category as whole foods and it is not subject to FDA regulations. The only real guideline set in place, is that a company wanting to manufacture GM crops should have a voluntary meeting with the FDA. The company does not have to follow the FDA's recommendations and the FDA does not have the authority to intervene. 4)The FDA has a lousy stance as far as health concerns go, their stance is "the agency currently does not have the time, money, or resources to carry out exhaustive health and safety studies of every proposed GM food product. Moreover, the FDA policy as it exists today does not allow for this type of intervention.(http://www.csa.com/discoveryguides/gmfood/overview.php)" I just wanted to put my two cents in....See MoreEver heard of a pocket gopher?
Comments (64)I can completely understand your frustration. Rodents are territorial and you kill one (or some) the new guys will just move in to take over. For some unknown reasons our front yard is now rodent free. I managed to trap a pair at a time and after the last pair I refilled the holes then plugged them will rocks. I returned to inspect the area and checked for new holes and tracks periodically. It's been two years and I've found none. The pocket gopher that drove me crazy was a loner. I trapped and killed it and the rest of the season we're gopher free. I know a new guy will come in to take over the place so I stopped planting anything for two years. I hope by leaving the place deserted will drive the rest of them looking resident somewhere else and eventually there's no more gopher scent to attract them back. If they do return I have two black boxes to take care of them. I still have one more rodent headache, the biggest yet, to deal with - the backyard gang. We have a large composter in our backyard (just a fence away from the back land) and I used to trap them and got one or two a day. The dead bodies got smaller in size each day indicating the young ones had to come out to look for food. Activities would stop for a while then the whole cycle started over again with large mice then the small ones trapped near the composter. I know as long as the food is there they will never stop yet I don't have a solution....See Morebeesneeds
6 years agojeanwedding. zone 6
6 years agojeanwedding. zone 6
6 years agobeesneeds
6 years agoLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agovgkg Z-7 Va
6 years agobeesneeds
6 years agonaturegirl_2007 5B SW Michigan
6 years agogumby_ct
6 years agobeesneeds
6 years agodaninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agobeesneeds
6 years ago
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daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)