Avocado Tree - Trying to save...

6 years ago

I planted a 15 gallon Hass Avocado tree, living in Orange County (for weather/zone questions). Unfortunately, I was given advice by 2 different people from the same nursery. After initially planting the avocado tree in September, I had mentioned that the watering schedule for this area was 2x/day, 5 minutes each time, every other day. The nursery person said that is fine and will be okay. Several weeks pass, it was growing just fine, and then the tips turned brown. I didn't give it a second thought, because I still saw new foliage. Things worsened. All the leaves turned brown. Any new leaves that were coming already had brown tips.

I contacted the nursery again, and this is where its get irritating. I was told based on pictures, I am experiencing "salt burn" on my tree. "It's not getting enough water, you need more water to flush out the minerals". I did that for about 1-2 weeks (hand-watering in addition to the sprinklers, added a mulch ring for more moisture).

I contacted the nursery again, explained the situation, this time I was told. "you are over-watering it and this causing salt burn and now root rot. You need to water 1x/week or 1x/3 or 4 days".

I have been doing this new watering schedule for the last 1.5 weeks. Is my tree suffering from salt burn or root rot? I am so confused. Is this tree still savable?

The first set is from October 23, the second set from today November 8

Second Set

Featured Answer

Sunnyin SanDiego

6 years ago

Hi, I have seen so many avocado trees look like this, and lost several the same way myself as the dead brown areas spread to the rest of the leaves and then the branches and then the trunk... and then boom the tree is dead. I will share with you how I now have two beautiful trees without a speck of brown on them, including one with hundreds of leaves that had lost every single one before I pulled it back from the brink! I hope something in my experience can be helpful.

Avocados are known to be sensitive to salts, and this does look like "burn." Do you know what kind of water you have -- soft, hard, alkaline? -- and the soil type?

Burn: I found that a very heavy application of gypsum "neutralizes" the high mineral and salt content of our water. It was like magic for me... Almost overnight, the spreading of the burn stopped. If your water is hard, I would put at least a few pounds down around your tree.

Mulch: Then, you need a thick layer of mulch. In nature, avocados need a thick layer of their own decaying fallen leaves to protect their roots, but of course we tend to clean away the leaves once they fall. I use a very loose, airy mulch instead of bark nuggets or wood chips, because avocado roots will actually grow up into the layer of decaying leaves. After putting down the gypsum, I would add at least 3-4 inches of a mulch that resembles leaf litter.

Watering: This was the biggest change for me. I won't bore you with all the details I got from reading... Basically, the tree should not be too wet and get root rot, but the mulch should be consistently moist. That means every day or two, I do a very light watering that just dampens the mulch, and then do a deep watering that reaches the whole rootball only when the soil is quite dry to a few inches down. This might be hard to do with automated irrigation, but perhaps someone smarter than me can figure out how... I just do it manually. ;-)

Sunlight: I always thought avocados needed full, intense sun, but they actually are meant to shade themselves/each other, and young trees practically grow in full shade until they are big enough to break through the canopy. I don't know the exposure where they are planted, but if you have them in strong sun, they may be suffering.

Sorry for such a long response, but I was so desperate to grow avocado trees that I did a crazy amount of reading... hope I can save you the hours of research :-)

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (27)

User
Original Author
6 years ago
Thank you so much for your help!

I ended up adding mulch to the tree and just turning the soil a bit to allow for better irrigation. The water is hard in my area, and my soil is basic, according to the sensor.

I ended up changing my water schedule for all the fruit trees for now. The sprinkler is on a schedule 1x/day for 5 minutes, and it waters every 3 days.

Most of the tree has died out, but I was happy to see that it's coming back to life, I think? It started bouncing back after I changed the water schedule.

Old Schedule - 2x/day for 5 minutes, every other day

New Schedule - 1x/day for 5 minutes, every 3 days
Related Discussions
Please Help Me Save My Dying Avocado Tree!
Q
Comments (7)
I have to disagree with jean001 a little. New potting soil (looks like yours has some perlite as well) will not compact and/or dry out such that it pulls away from the edge of the pot, and water runs right through without wetting it. Given the size of your pot, and the amount you're watering, I'd say it's been too wet. Avocados like well-drained soil, on the slightly dry side. A new tree, with few roots to absorb and transpire water, doesn't require much. As it grows and water needs increase, it can use more, but easy does it. As jean001 suggested, growing in a pot is MUCH different than in the ground. Care must be taken to maintain the correct soil moisture. There are perhaps a few avocado varieties that will produce in a container, but it would have to be a very large container. Also, you'll get few, if any, fruits, without cross-pollination. If you maintain a drier pot, and keep an eye on moisture levels further down in the mix before watering, it's possible your tree will come back. The way it's looking at the moment, I'd give it about a 30-40% chance. Also, small avocados are prone to sunburn -- don't keep it in direct sun all day. Shade it slightly, and/or paint the trunk. -Bruce
...See More
Desperately Trying to Save 2 Rubber Trees
Q
Comments (14)
All you can do for the plant now is make sure you don't over-water. The plant was healthy enough that if it's still viable, it will come back from whatever tissues are left that are still living. It might take anywhere from 2 weeks - 3 months to see evidence that the plant is still alive, and during that time the plant will need very little in the way of water. I suggest you get a 1/4-5/16" wooden dowel rod and sharpen it in a pencil sharpener. Push the sharp end deep into the pot near the center - if it comes out darkened or damp from the soil, or with wet pieces of soil stuck to the rod, continue to withhold water. It looks like all the leaves were frozen or suffered severe chill injury, so they will likely all be shed. Right now, warmth is more important than light. Try to keep the plant in a warm spot away from a heat vent where the temp will remain above 70-75*. If you can buy or borrow a propagation matt, it will raise soil temps by about 10*, which would be very helpful (if the plant is still viable). Use no fertilizer until the plant is obviously pushing new growth. Al
...See More
Please help us to try and save our cherry trees.
Q
Comments (3)
Since it never really fruited lets me believe it's a disease magnet like most other sweet cherries and needs to get sprayed,...agree, some kind of canker, in my books, not worth keeping a tree which hasn't even fruited ones in all these years. Perhaps talk to someone locally who actually grows sweet cherries, I'm sure the trees are sprayed and they perhaps can help you. You might want to put in the low maintenance/spray cherry tree, [sour cherry].
...See More
Sick avocado tree - need to save the tree and kids' treehouse!
Q
Comments (18)
Looks like fungus or disease attacked the branch starting at the wound hole. In the best case it might be possible to save the branch if the cracked bark/dead area is removed along with any soft/decayed wood. Then you could regularly paint on liquid copper fungicide (including under the sides of the rod and on the other side of the rod) until the tree grows around from each side and closes its wound. It would take several years however and no guarantees of full recovery. The next best case you would have to add a wood post to support that corner of the tree house and cut that one branch off below any bit of dead area to prevent disease from reaching the trunk, then regularly paint on liquid copper fungicide until the cut branch closes up the wound over a few years. The worst case is if the tree is deeply infected with any bad disease at that branch, it could spread all the way down to the trunk eventually and kill the whole tree over several years.
...See More
Sunnyin SanDiego
6 years ago
That definitely looks like new growth! This break in the weather should help, too... Hopefully it will be so thick with leaves you won't be able to see the wood anymore. Awesome, congratulations!
matt_lcv10a
6 years ago
Sunnyin, good advice. After killing a couple of Avocado trees, I to have found success with lots of gypsum, dappled sun after 1:00pm, lite daily or ever otherday watering, and 4 inches of mulch. I have a soil probe and only do a good watering if is very dry below about 6 inches. My trees are young and their roots are currently in the top 8 inches of the soil. I do no deep watering if it is wet 9 inches down. I want the bottom of the current root zone to be on the drier side. The lite daily watering in the summer is a pain, but until they get big and resilient, it's necessary.
viper75
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
Can't agree more with the gypsum. Looks like it went through shock. The initial watering I think was light. The first few weeks they need lots of water. It got dehydrated making salts settle on roots and the leaf loss leading to sun burn. But those leave look really dried out. What are the soil conditions like. Sandy? Drain fast? If its fast draining, you may need to water daily in high heat. But that would be like very sandy free draining conditions. If the soil is moist and cool 2-3 inches down and leaves show no signs of wilt, hold off a day more on water.

Avo's are picky with soil and water conditions. So process what works (and kind of why and in what conditions) and what doesn't work (and why).
User
Original Author
6 years ago
Bad news again...on November 27th, I was getting new buds and new growth. The tree was full of new buds and I was just waiting for them to blossom and just see leaves. The first batch started blooming, more browning leaves....I don't get it. I changed the watering schedule. I check and test the water moisture in the soil daily so it's not overwatered. I am lost on what to do.
matt_lcv10a
6 years ago
Too much fertilizer? Salty water? Avocados are so hard to grow. We need a couple of good rain storms to flush out the soil in SoCal. The dry 70 mph Santa Ana winds several weeks ago took most of the leaves off my two six foot in ground Avocado trees. I was forced from home a few days because of the fires. I fertilized too much and got the same issue with my Reed tree. My Pinkerton growing 10 feet away got the same feed and looks fine and is flushing new growth. I tried to flush the Reed tree with a lot of water, but it don't help. Just going to keep it alive and pray for rain.
carolstropicals
6 years ago
Is there no way for you to water with rain water. I collect rain water in barrels therefore no salt. I also had a system that was fairly inexpensive installed so we can drink from our faucet. This also waters my trees. The system costs around 50.00, but the plumbing was fairly high. Some people are able to do this themselves.

I have lost so many avocado trees. We have to consider this a learning experience. Mostly I lost them due to direct sun.

I have watched several videos of tree planting for avocados in California. All the plantings are done flat in the ground. Here in Houston we have to plant our fruit trees especially avocados high in a mound so they do not collect water. They just don't seem to like a lot of water. There are many videos on planting and the soil additives to add. It is just not like planting citrus or other fruit trees. Avocados need airy soil.

I have one in a pot now doing quite well and full of blooms. Don't know if I'll get the courage to put it in the ground.

Hope things are well with your tree. Carol
Nick (9b) Modesto Area
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago

I have mine in direct sun and in containers and they get full sun in the central valley of California, I use the 5.1.1. gritty mix and mulch on the top few inches. If there is no rain I water them once a week this time of year. I have 7 different varieties and I haven't protected them from the cold this winter either and we have had a few nights drop below 30*.
User
Original Author
6 years ago
At this point, I am trying to figure out...at which point is it fully dead, with no way of coming back. I keep hoping it just needs more time and will pop back up again.

What's the 5.1.1 gritty mix? I have a mulch ring around the tree. I have been doing everything I can to fix this tree up.

- Water schedule change

- Gypsum to correct the soil

- Soil Conditioner

- Fertilizer

- Tossing my used coffee grinds into the soil

At this point, I am ready to start digging holes around the tree to air out or start tossing whole bananas and eggs into the ground LOL.
Nick (9b) Modesto Area
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
There are several threads on the 5,1,1 mix on the forums. Do a search and you will find it. If you can't I will try and post a link later I'm heading out to a birthday party now. I just did a quick search see the link below

https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/1422673/als-gritty-mix-recipe?n=109
User
Original Author
6 years ago
Hey everyone, I wanted to share an update of my avocado tree.

All the leaves fell off, many of the branches turned black. I cut all the black branches off the tree. After that, I dug out almost all the soil from around the tree which was mostly for lack a better of word (clumpy mud?) even though I had cut down watering on it.

I added new potting soil (Dr. Earth Premium Potting Soil)

I switched to a new fertilizer (Vigoro Citrus and Avocado Food)

In about 10 days, here is what happened...there are some new shoots growing out of the trunk, but I can't tell if these are good or bad, (i.e. the ones near the bottom should I remove those or not) Those new growths are the only leaves on the entire tree.

Next plan is to swap out sprinkler heads for a drip irrigation. (Not sure what the new watering schedule should be with drip)Picture 1 - The Naked Avocado Tree trying to spring back.

Picture 2 - New Growth near bottom of tree

Picture 3 - New Growth middle of trunk
viper75
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
Mike,

those pictures look promising! So yeah, wet mud and avos are not good. So that new growth is a result of better soil and root conditions. I dont see gypsum though. Heavy doses should be applied regularly. And when only a trace is visible, reapply. But all in all, looking good.

your watering needs better monitoring IMO. Roots and surrounding soil should never be muddy. From here, let all the new growth flush out. You NEED to white wash. 50/50 interior white latex and water and paint all the green wood.( so all of it.) IV Organics has a great product as well but slightly costly.

As for irrigation, i like areas sprayers on the drip, but for all 50+ of my fruit trees, I hand water. May sound crazy, but it gives me a weekly time to inspect, correct and reaply mulch as I water. In Livermore during major heat waves I water my trees about once a week. I have 6-12 inches of wood chips and that holds tons of moisture and it creates a very root friendly medium.

wish you continued luck on bringing that tree back
viper75
6 years ago
Mike,

How have things progressed? My now you should have pretty significantly more leaves and growth.
User
Original Author
6 years ago
MIDDLE OF THE TRUNK

This was the pic of the middle trunk on March 30...it had such hope...

This is the middle of the trunk today. April 11. Something bit the leaves off that were growing and then it shriveled up.

BOTTOM OF THE TRUNK

March 30

April 11

The rest of the tree hasn't changed yet. No new buds, branches have dark black spots and are just continuing to spread. I am in debate of whether this tree will actually grow, or whether I should 1) remove it fully 2) put it in a container

The weather in RSM, CA is funky this week. Next few days are warm (high 70s, low 80s during day, and low 50s at night, then next week it's going to be low 70s during day)
Sunnyin SanDiego
6 years ago
The new growth looks really good, but I'm not sure what it means that there's no growth anywhere else... did you try the heavy dose of gypsum? If the water is very hard/salty, it could be "burning", which shows up at the very tips of the system first (edges of leaves, then the whole leaf drops, then the tip of the branch, and so forth), and gypsum prevents that...

Thanks to everyone on this thread for reminding me, I should add more gypsum and re-whitewash mine tomorrow, the sun's path is moving and mine are starting to get more sunlight now... they just might be the most coddled plants I have!
Sunnyin SanDiego
6 years ago
Mike, I also should add -- some shedding of leaves this time of year is normal. I'm told it's the trees way of removing salts accumulated in the tree (it stores them in the leaves, then drops them as it starts pushing new growth for the year). Seems to be more dramatic with young trees. I'd be hopeful about the fact that you do have new growth that looks really healthy, and hopefully the rest of the tree won't be too far behind!
viper75
6 years ago
Good point Sunny-D. Bloom time is when these look their worst. (but young branches should not die off like that middle one.) That bottom shoot looks really promising. But the top looks pretty much done. I would contemplate chopping off the top down to perhaps the lowest healthy growth or bud nodule.

But something is still off. That middle growth was soooo good. For it to shrivel, it has to be one of two things. Either excessive moisture/poor drainage and/or frost. Or to be honest, it's just been through too much. (assuming it didn't burn off from a freak heat wave in March?)

It is tricky. I think your initial issue may have been heat and not enough water. But it is so difficult to tell from just pictures. When the leaves turn brown or black, you have to feel if it's dry or soft and wilty. I hand dig to see if the roots are ok. Check soil moisture too.

If I were you: I would plant another 10-15 feet over. A gem avo or smaller variety. And keep the one you have but prune back to the bottom growth or bud if there is one further up. Remove the tape and bamboo! And manage the tree as is. It still wants to live otherwise it would not have any growth. Add 4-6 inches of mulch and keep it slightly damp with light waterings regularly and heavy waterings less frequently.
viper75
6 years ago
Mike,

I reread your original post. Where do you get your water? What is the source? Is it de-sal? I am willing to bet you have elevated salts in your water. Sunny-D mentioned it as well. You don't have a softener do you?

I see no gypsum in the pictures... Naughty naughty. I am not a pro (just an expert in failure) But in any desert area, your water is salty unless you harvest rainwater. You should have gypsum visible at any given time. It should be a monthly application at the least. 3-5 pounds every time you apply it. I do not think this is an option for any coastal area.

I suggest watching growquest on youtube. Chis is really good though as a person, maybe rough around the edges. But his info is useful.
User
Original Author
6 years ago
Viper75,

Thank you for the help! To answer some of the questions.

Water comes from the main tap. (I do not have a softener). I live in Rancho Santa Margarita, CA from my understanding the water here is extremely hard.

I was using Gypsum and I believe I am using it wrong. The one I have looks like pellets. I was given so many different advices (plus internet) on how to use gypsum.

Advice I heard.

1. Just toss it around tree (2 handfuls)

2. Mix it into the soil (dig)

3. Do #1 and then water it

4. Do #2 and then water it.

5. Gypsum is bad for fruit trees - don't let it near the rest (I am trying to grow pomegranate, cara cara orange, apricot, nectarine, plum, mango, and a fig tree)

So far, I have done # 1 and # 2 and when after a few days, I noticed the gypsum just clumped up together (not sure if that's what should happen.

I have tried a running a few checks. The soil where the avocado tree is highly acidic and its also clay-like. Sprinkler watering was a nightmare.

This week I am in the process of converting everything to drip system for better monitoring. The drip ends are 0.5 gph (any recommendations on how long to water that for?)

Another advice I was given was to put 2 handfuls of fertilizer and 1 handful of ironite to help the tree (not sure if this worked or now)

I have also already removed the soil (a few weeks ago) and replaced it with new potting soil to fix the drainage issue.

Please advise.
viper75
6 years ago
Mike,

Gypsum should be micronized. It should be a superfine powder. Any good nursery will have it. Again, I am talking 2-3 pints a month around the tree. On top of the mulch is perfectly fine. If is dissolves after 2-3 waterings completely, it was not enough. I apply gypsum around all my bushes and trees. once annually in the fall. (except avocados and citrus where it is more frequent)

Watering is trickier. It depends on the percolation rate and oil make-up. Ideally, you want the root zone (2-20" deep) to be thoroughly damp and moist but not saturated. Drip is not a good way to apply it IMO. it is so weather dependent that you are too easily over or under watering. I would estimate about 7-10 gallons every 2-3 days during 80-85 degree days for a small tree but that is very rough estimate. You really need to make sure all the root zone is evenly watered. I do my avo watering by hand and with rain captured water.

I have very sandy engineered soild for 2 feet deep. 4-6 inches of wood chips and 4-6 inches of straw all for a mounded tree. The roots are moist even without rain for weeks in our current weather.

Fertilizers are tricky as well. Chemical fertilizers have very high salt content. Avoid them! Find and organic citrus one. Or use fish emulsion, kelp extract and/or blood meal, bone meal, cottonseed meal or some other non chemical nitrogen source.
matt_lcv10a
6 years ago
Mike,

Gypsum Pellets? I use Western Minerals Agricultural Gypsum. It's a fine powered, be careful, try not to breath any in.

Go to the California Avocado Commission website. Look for "How to Grow an Avocado Tree". Very good summary.
Sunnyin SanDiego
6 years ago
My gypsum is also very small pellets (I think called "pearls"?), not a powder, but the ingredients are 100% gypsum so I don't think it matters. When I water, they start to dissolve; it stops looking like pellets after a few weeks or so, but it is still there. After several months you can't really see too much of it at all and that's when I know I need to add a bunch more. I think both powder or pellets form should be fine.
viper75
6 years ago
I use the AG gypsum. But as long as it is not the Home Depot or Lowe's chunky garbage you are good. The pellet form is probably a little slower release which would be good. less frequent application, but maybe would need a little more at the time of application.
sunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)
5 years ago
Remove the stick, let it sway in the wind and get stronger trunk.
Sunnyin SanDiego
5 years ago
If you are afraid to go from fully staked to no stake at all (young avos are often quite floppy), you can transition to having it loosely tied to a stake so it can move a bit but still get support until it's stronger. Ideally you'd have a stake on either side and loop the trunk in between with a soft flexible material, but you can just use the stake you already have and change the way it's attached to slowly ease it off of being fully tied up.
Suzanne Hearring
2 months ago
Thank you for this thread. Even though it is years old, you all helped me save my tree!! Gypsum and humidity was the ticket and I'll remove the stick once we are past our weeks' long windy season. All the best.