Keep in mind those kits are the guts of a normal window, just without the frame parts. Expect that the savings will be in installation and [lack of] need for trim/other materials. The actual cost savings kit vs. window will not be tremendous.

Hello all: I've searched this forum and read the great advice here. I have to make a decision quickly (by next week-long story). I'll try to be as specific as possible. Live in a pre-war high rise (11th fl) in NYC. I have 9 double hung windows. Frames are ok, replacing the original decaying wooden sashes with aluminum - must use aluminum because of type of bldg and size of window. It's a landmark so windows must be black on outside - I want white interior. Many installers in my area use one of two local companies. Crystal Window is the one most have suggested-a manufacturer in Flushing NY-and they can make the two-tone that I want. (A while ago I got quotes from a few very high end installers who suggested some other specialty brands to the tune of 20Kish, which seems much too high). I've gotten one quote ($8,000) - awaiting the second. The first guy suggested the Crystal 2000A (specs below)-thermal break heavy residential aluminum. When the second came to measure, he saw the flyer for the 2000A on my table and said those are not heavy enough for the size of my windows...and recommended a new Crystal 5000 model. My windows range from 35 1/2" x 84" (largest) to 22 1/2 x 84. Most are 33 1/2 x 84. I asked the first guy if I needed the heavy commercial 5000 that guy #2 suggested and he said the 2000A would be strong enough (spec says max size for this model:56"x99") He said the 5000 is very good and has nice features, but about $200-300 more per window. ouch. I'm still awaiting bid from co #2. (Both have track record, good reviews - I know the installation is key, so I found companies that have replaced windows in blds like mine.) Who to believe? I'm not happy to spend more, but I don't want something not strong enough... Guy #1-company has great testimonials. Guy #2-owner of family biz 30+ yrs with solid rep. He seems to know the terrain. I'm in a coop bldg-not sure how long I'll stay. What does equal site line mean and does that make a big difference? What is a continuous, full anti-drift clip lock - the co #1 guy said something about the way the bar on the bottom of the sash lifts is different in the 5000, I asked him to clarify, but still don't really understand. He also said the aluminum is thicker, of course, on the 5000 series. For my situation, do I need the E coating? I have steam heat so I don't have a problem with cold in the winter. The 5000 model indicates "architectural" - what does that mean in terms of difference in features? I want something reliable, but I don't need to over do. Crystal seems to have a good customer service record. Was listed in top 50 manufacturers in a window trade magazine recently. I would be most grateful for some guidance on which of these two models to get. Would love insight on just what differs between these two models because I can't decifer - I added the specs of the two window models in question below. Crystal brochure says: Aluminmun 2000 series: thermal break heavy residential (although another spec section of the site indicates applications: Normal duty thermal break) -(max width 56" - height 99") * frame Depth = 3-1/4" * Air. 24 Water-7.52 Uniform Load- 74.25 Wall thickness (frame/sill) 062/.078 * AAAA RATING HC-50/60 * Insulated Glass Unit Depth = 7/8"~ for optimum insulation & sound reduction. * PPG "Intercept" Insulated Glass Spacer ~ the "warm-edge" technology of choice. * Tilt Sashes ~ for safe, easy cleaning of both top and bottom sashes. * Sloped Sill * Anti-Drift Head Clip Lock ~ automatically secures the top sash in the closed position for safety, security, and a weathertight seal. 5000 series - thermal break heavy Commercial/Architectural (the specs sections application says: normal/heavy duty commercial) The Improved Crystal Series 5000, is a HC rated aluminum double-hung window with a 3-" jamb depth. Improved features, such as straight and narrow jamb, and continuous anti-bow pin is a proven performer for many years to come. Features (max width 56 - height 99) * Frame Depth = 3-1/4" * AAMA H-HC45 * Air. 24 Water-7.52 Uniform Load- 74.25 Wall thickness (frame/sill) 062/.078 * Insulated Glass Unit Depth = 1"~ for greater insulation & sound reduction. * PPG "Intercept" Insulated Glass Spacer ~ the "warm-edge" technology of choice. * Heavy-Duty Construction ~ sill frame is .093" thick. * Continuous Anti-bow pin * Straight Jamb Provides Equal Sightline * Continuous Top & Bottom Anti-Drift Clip Locks * Sloped Sill * Tilt Sashes ~ for safe, easy cleaning. * Double Internal Metal Tilt Latches * Full Width Anti-Drift Clip Locks On Both Sashes ~ weathertight sashes closure for safety, security * The stile rails are designed to have a straight daylight elevation view. Many many thanks. Maddy

QUICK energy saver if you have a flat surround on the windows. Use cheap curtain rods, the compression kind, and make a quick "cafe curtain" of sunshade fabric. The one shown has been up for 1.5 summers in NM and still doing well. I just stapled the fabric to make a "hem" for the rods to go through. They - thanks to physics - do NOT blow off in a high wind.

Thanks. I had sticker shock at the cost to rip out and replace with wood (Pella 450s would cost around $700/window including install), so...I'm buying new spiral balances instead (Swisco.com) and doing a thorough cleaning/refurbishment to make me feel better about them. If I feel extra ambitious, I may pry off some of the moulding and spray foam around the edges to plug the air leaks.