Also, if this helps, I've had it in a pot that had fish tank rocks (no dirt or moss or anything), but I assumed that might have been making it too wet? So I transplanted it recently into another pot that has the bark mixture for orchids. I've had it in an office with a skylight for the past year and have gotten 2-3 new leaves, but that's about it.

hello thank you, I apologize. its potted in a drainable pot ad it has holes in the bottom. I keep it in the kitchen on the counter it gets a little sun but not a lot? and the Tag said intergeneric orchid. It was one of my mothers last orchids that she received I believe she had it for over a year and I'm hoping there's a way to bring it back. The ones out side are fine a bit yellow at the tips but darker green towards the base so I'm assuming there fine? but I know they're a different type not sure.

Mounting orchids is a simple process. First, I would suggest applying the hanger to your mounting material. Most people make hangers for the mounts from wire. The most common wire used is the wire used for hanging suspended ceilings, but any strong, yet flexible wire may be used. One method is to bend the wire into a u shape, and then hammer the wire into the mount. The other method is to drill a hole or two and thread it through the mount. Making a tag with a hole and threading it onto the hanger is a wise thing to do to identify the plant. A tag made from Tyvek scraps and permanent marker may be used if you dont have any fancier material. Orchids to be mounted are placed on the mounting material which has been soaked in water (I like to leave it over night). Some people put a pad of good quality sphagnum moss on the mount then place the roots on top of itallowing the roots to spread first into the sphag. Before it goes into the mount thereby helping it get established. Others prefer to place the plant directly on the mount, or to put the sphag pad on the outside. The plant is then tied into the mount, by wrapping monofilament (fishing line), twist tie, or panty hose around the roots. Once the plants roots have grown into the mount, the line, twist ties, or panty hose is removed. Tree fern plaques (or slabs), and cork bark are probably the most commonly used mounting material, but other materials include cactus skeletons, and rough driftwood (both of which may be purchased at pet stores as they are used for reptiles). Some people like to use slabs of wood with bark attachedsuch as live oak or fir. Fresh water driftwood may be used, but driftwood from saltwater bodies must be washed to remove the salt. Using Physan to kill any bad things on collected mounts is also a good idea. Driftwood as a whole may not be the best material as orchids like to have a somewhat rough surface to grow into. One grower uses paint sticks for some of his smaller mounts. Tree fern slabs are probably the most quickly drying. Vary your mounting material to the plants needs. Plants needing a quicker dry-out should be mounted on a more porous material and the sphagnum or coir pad may be skipped.

HU-474...Here is another suggestion that you could use instead of James's method, or with James's method. What James has said is a perfectly good way to try to revive the plant, this is simply another way that I have used successfully in the past. First--If you have already taken the plant out of the pot and repotted it, fine. now, instead of just putting it on the shelf with other plants, get a plastic bread bag, and put a hand full or two of wet Sphagnum moss, or orchid bark mix in the bottom of the bag, slide the pot into the bag, and seal it up. Some bread bags come with holes punched in them, others don't, put several holes or cut slits into the top of the bag, and hang the bag in a bright but not sunny, or hot location. I would hang mine under my orchid bench in the greenhouse. keep the material in the bottom of the bag wet, but don't let water puddle in the bag. Humidity is critical to reviving a dehydrated orchid plant, and the bag method increases the humidity all around the plant, without it sitting in water. Second, if the plant is not repotted, take it out of the pot, and trim off any dead roots. Make sure the roots are dead...dry, shriveled and brittle. do not cut down into live root tissue. cutting into live tissue means those live cut ends of the roots will come in contact with liquid water for long periods of time, and that invites rot. Put a couple of handfulls of wet Sphagnum or bark mix into the bread/plastic bag, and seal it up. Make a few air holes in the top of the bag, and hang it in a bright, but not sunny place, as above, and keep the material in the bag wet. What you want to do is increase the airborne humidity around the plant, and keep it elevated constantly, not letting it dry out, but not keeping it soaked either. The bread bag is just an easy way to do that. Orchids absorb moisture from the air through their leaves and roots, but they don't want to be kept "wet" all the time. I have revived many orchid plants with this method. It works particularly well with rootless shriveled Cattleya back bulbs when I had bulbs from a particularly nice plant that I wanted as many divisions of as possible--Just bag em' up and hang them under the bench, check for moisture occasionally, and wait them out. A lot of pretty pathetic plants rewarded me with new life. Its usually a long wait, but you may win this plant. Good luck. Bill