Flooring - sound reduction/proofing recommendation
6 years ago
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Comments (8)
- 6 years ago
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sound proof flooring for condo
Comments (8)Pb Scot is correct Soundproofing is difficult esp in your situation. That said there are products that certainly can do a very good job - If you are re-flooring or have new construction I would rec looking into Mass loaded vinyl 1/8" heavy -goes on like rolled flooring under your finish floor. Below is a website that I used when I was looking into soundproofing during our renovation 3 yrs ago. We have a 1930 home that is plaster & lost quite a bit of plaster, which has an excellent sound proofing quality. The folks here are helpful & knowledgeable - I took my time to understand the science of soundproofing as much as I could before purchasing anything. I also have a bro in law that is a master carpenter and built many of the Sony studios in Manhattan - He used multiple layers of sheetrock (differing widths, and staggering joints) Good luck - quietness is something I'm willing to go an extra mile for ! Here is a link that might be useful: SOundproofing.org...See MoreWhat material to sound proof a room
Comments (13)brutuses First you need to identify what type of sounds you are trying to deaden - and what the purpose of the room is ie - Recording Studio, Woodworking shop, home theatre etc.. Differing types of sounds require different types of materials/applications - i.e. foot fall in an upstairs is one of the more difficult to deaden vs. voices Not a pro here by any stretch but I did research this very issue during our remodel when we lost a plaster ceiling in the living room which is the largest room in the house. Also, we finished 1/2 the basement which has been spec'd for future home theatre use. Bro in law is a master carpenter & he re-built many of the recording studios for SONY (I believe they are now defunct fr. recording) In that application - what works best is layers of sheetrock, in various thickness, staggering seams additionally inside the wall insulation - Mineral Wool, brand name Roxul - is a product that has been used for yrs as a firestopping insulation - fairly recently avail in Bat form (just like the pink stuff) easy to apply Mass loaded vinyl - is a 1/8" thick rolled vinyl -like the flooring and is good for floor application. It's heavy! - I had my carpenter use it on the ceiling of our basement, after applying Roxul btwn the joists - I thought he might walk off the job! heavy & difficult to use overhead - after the MLV he had to put up a grid & apply acoustical ceiling tile - which really is homosote (product mentioned above) - Homosote is another good choice - but if cat potty area is an issue this would not be adviseable as it will wick in moisture - Here's our application LR ceiling - J- channel w/acoustical tape applied to joists- This step is critical as sheetrock direct to joists will allow/act as a sound traveler if you will, Roxul btwn the joists, 5/8" sheet rock applied to J-channel. There are other methods, green glues, acoustical sheetrock etc - We choose this route - because it is cost effective, products were readily available and easy to apply. IT has worked remarkably well Basement - as stated - Roxul, MLV, acoustical tile, Roxul is also on an interior wall btwn utility side of basement & finished side. - A thick Exterior door is installed btwn utility/finished side - with rubber gasket around bottom - Hope this has helped - I can't stress enough about determining 1st what you are trying to deaden - In a garage you will have doors, windows, ? ceiling or is it exposed rafters - so if you just do a little -it may be for naught as sound has too many other routes to travel -too many leaks - 1/2" sheetrocked homes are an acoustical nightmare - Here is a sight that is extremely helpful - I purchased some products from them for our projects folks there will take the time to help find right product for your application http://www.soundproofing.org/ This may help too http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33362&highlight=soundproofing Good luck!...See MoreWater / Ant / Earthquake / Sound Proof a Kitchen
Comments (11)There are automatic water shutoff leak detectors. http://www.plumbingsupply.com/washingmachineshutoffvalve.html And others. I don't know how well they work. There are drip pans for clothes washers, they are common enough. Finding them in other widths is hard. Here is a 24'' one. I've known people (three) who had huge amounts of water damage to their homes from water leaks. In one case, it actually was the dishwasher. But in each case, it was far more water than the couple gallons that a any drip pan can catch - I mean like the fire department had to come and pump out their basement. I have heard some cases on KF where floods damaged kitchens, but I don't know if that was 1 gallon or 1,000. http://www.floodsaver.com/panFAQs.html The cabinets are not going anywhere in an earthquake. Dishes may dump out of the upper cabinets - this happened to some of my friends in some SoCal earthquakes. Get positive latches on the uppers if you are worried - or just figure that once every 20 years, you will replace some dishes. If you don't live in California or other region with frequent earthquakes, stop worrying. When the ''Big One'' comes in your city, you won't care about your dishes. Noise - go to the Appliance Forum and find a long thread titled something like ''does anyone make a quiet refrigerator''. All kinds of people in various degrees of upset that they can hear the ice drop in their refrigerator. I guess none of them have kids, live in the city, have a snoring spouse, etc. Their experiences and recommendations to achieve silencitude appear contradictory and ineffectual. But when I need a good chuckle, I re-read that thread. As for ants, we have an ant problem sometimes. I find that if you don't leave bread crumbs, Nutella smears, sugar spills, jelly blobs on your counter, you have few if any ant problems. Unfortunately, we do, or at least my kids do. It is often weather-dependent too. 1/8'' will make no difference, unless your cabinets are actually levitating, there will be a route for one of nature's most remarkable creatures....See Moresound proofing between two rooms
Comments (11)Easiest and least expensive? Use channels over the studs, look at EC-8 channel. The channel gets screwed to the drywall the drywall to the channel. Consider use a single layer of 5/8" drywall on the mechanical room side and two 1/2" layers on the theater side. The different thicknesses will help attenuate different frequencies. Both the channel and the drywall are inexpensive. $ Acoustical sealant. Treat the perimeter and any penetrations through the wall; partition studs to adjacent walls, sole plate to floor, electrical boxes, etc. Batt insulation. Roxul sound batts are better than FG batting. But as a stand-alone, cavity batts are lower on the sound-attenuation totem pole than the steps listed above. $ If you want to spend more money, you can use green glue or equivalent when you hang the drywall. $$ You could use mass loaded vinyl. $$$ Just remember that the wall as a whole will only be as strong as it's weakest link. ie, don't splurge on the wall and ignore the ceiling joist bays, etc....See More- 6 years ago
- 6 years ago
- 6 years ago
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