... methinks the seller is right. You have said you have NO access under the slab. Is it a slab on grade? Is it a slab in a condo, and you don't want to break apart your downstairs neighbor's bathroom ceiling? Is is something else? According to the diagram that comes with the tub, the P trap is under the slab. Although it's not shown in the illustration, it is nonetheless obvious to many people. You (or your plumber) need to figure out is where you'll place the P trap, under the slab, which kind of pipe to use (tubular chromed brass, copper DWV, ABS, PVC, etc) and which associated slip joint ("lock nut") to use, and how you'll vent this line if it's being built new or rebuilt in any way -- and all that is a Master Plumber subject, not a tub sales subject. My bet is that your plumber is not a Master Plumber, but a repair kind of guy who knows how to fix faucets and a whole lot more, too. There is nothing to gain by calling the tub people. There is almost no information provided in your diagrams posted above, in terms that would help us know how to advise you on how to connect the tub to the P trap. It does show the slip joint, "lock nut" which may be your key to getting the tub drain secure and watertight --- but only someone on site would know for sure. Now, with no access under the slab, your big Question is how to raise the tub just enough that you'll manage to turn that slip joint shown under the tub and then make that gap look imperceptible later. Remember that you may want to be able to unscrew it one day too. Note that it is wise to be able to test it too -- and with no access underneath, you may be unable to test for leaks. This may be do-able, or maybe not... I think posting a diagram showing the drain lines you have under your slab, including venting, will give the right information for plumbers to know if 1st of all you can hope to just tighten the slip joint shown. hth

Lovely! I like the classic white tile and porcelain and how you used furniture pieces in the bathroom. I love that the storage at the end of the tub has pull-outs that can be reached from the toilet. Your custom sink and backsplash and counter are unique and beautiful. Yours may be the first bathroom sink I have seen in which a small or medium dog could be washed! That is a good thing! I showed your pictures to my DH because I am thinking of classic tiled walls with a chair rail for when we redo our bath in a couple of years. He liked it! I was expecting him to say, "too old fashioned." He did not, he said it looked nice. From him, nice is a compliment. He even liked your rows of listello. I was just at the Tile Shop's site the other day looking at the Hampton tiles because someone was selling some on Craigslist. I am hoping to do as you did and get what I can cheaper there, and fill in the rest from the store. I can see that you worked very hard to secure all of your materials - and then cut the floor tiles to size and culled the Hampton tiles, too! You succeeded very well in getting the look you wanted while saving money along the way. Congratulations, and thank you for the pictures and great detail and supply list.

There are a few, very expensive wall drains available, but they will NOT allow you to do what you are talking about. Water still has to flow down-gradient. After the water enters the wall drain it still has to drop DOWN, then must be sloped down to the drain pipe. I suppose it would be possible to build up your shower floor to accommodate the drain, but that would leave you with a shower floor six inches above the bathroom floor and you would STILL most likely have to cut into your concrete, and still have a pipe running through your closet. You would have an extraordinarily expensive shower/drain that wouldn't meet code. It will be much cheaper and easier to deal with the minimal concrete work in the closet and leave you with a house you can sell someday. No one is going to help you accomplish something contrary to code. Just do it right.

I just purchased the Sioux Chief 800-PPK floor drain assembly, which includes a trap primer connection and an integrated cleanout plug. I haven't installed it yet in my basement floor yet, but seems to be well made, and the features make sense. I plan to run it with a 2" drain line and 1.5" vent, and then install an automatic trap primer to keep it filled. I don't see an reason you couldn't install it in a bathroom floor. The Sioux Chief 800-PPK is carried by some Home Depot stores, but I had to search online and find one about 20 miles away. Menard's also stocks them, but Lowes does not even list it. Bruce