Haworthians Page 6
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6 years ago
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bikerdoc5968 Z6 SE MI
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoPagan
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Haworthians! Page 4
Comments (269)Conny - I don't think you will have problems with that browning one either. Your Aboukyu is looking fantastic! Howard - You're up for the challenge! I think you're an expert with dealing with rootless Haworthia now, haha. It really does get easier, doesn't it? Today I took the plunge and attempted my first pup-separation like this for my Haworthia truncata 'Omori'. The pups were starting to deform the shape of the mother plant, so it's time for them to finally go. Here they are together: And after some very careful cutting I managed to keep a fat root on one pair of offsets. They were joined together so they will stay like that for now. The other offset has no roots so I am letting it callous. One more photo of plants in progress - Haworthia 'Sansenjyu' 三仙壽. It was etiolated a bit when I got it, but now the nice shape and form is growing out....See MoreHaworthians Untie! Page 5
Comments (293)It's so much fun, isn't it!! First seeing them germinate, then slowly developing into miniature plants, they're soooo cute. Plus, with the seeds that were a result of natural pollination, it's exciting to see what the result will be. These were sowed in April by the way... I usually have germination result anywhere from 3 days to 4 or 6 weeks max, but I have 3 seeds from hand pollination that I sowed at the beginning of June, but still nada... I'm not prepared to give up on them yet though ;-)...See MoreHaworthians Page 7
Comments (304)In_awe - My 2xT5HO were 4" away from my plants. They did very well with 10000 lumens at that height. I do agree that lumens aren't a very good measure, lux/fc are better, and PAR is the best. One problem I find with a single number for measuring output is that light distribution with T5HO and LED lights is not uniform. Light distribution end to end and from center to sides is quite important to me because I have a limited grow area. My target light level is 24 PAR DLI for my high light succulents and 10 PAR DLI for my Haworthia. Roughly that's 1200-3000 fc, depending on the plant. Some of my Haworthia only need 250-500 fc. Required light levels differs significantly. In general, I've found truncata/emelyae/hard-leaved species to be quite resilient and take a lot of light. Obtusa/retusa are middlish. Picta and springbok don't like it too bright and marxii pretty much stay in the shade. I'm curious to hear other's experience with this! If you're looking to increase your light levels to get more colourful Haworthia, the two easiest ways are decreasing fixture height slightly or increasing the duration the are on. Pagan - Good luck with your experiment! If you don't already have a fc/lux meter, $10 on ebay is well worth it for purely relative light measurements. Nil - I already have a PAR meter and two lux meters (one is owned by my work), but for curiosity's sake I've contacted my local Apogee dealer to see how much they are charging for the SQ-520. Hopefully will hear back from them tomorrow. Think I need to do some more overtime to pay for all these toys!...See MoreCactus ID Please?
Comments (10)The “nipple” type cactus are so hard to id. Most the time when I see cactus like this my brain goes straight to Mammillaria, but I see more Coryphantha in yours. There’s also Escobaria. Hopefully it’ll bloom fairly soon for you. If blooms come from the top you’ve got a Coryphantha or Escobaria, but if the flowers come from older side growth it’s a Mammillaria. I’ve read the only way a person can tell the difference between Escobaria and Coryphantha is the seeds....See Morebikerdoc5968 Z6 SE MI
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