Arugula! I grow tomatoes in about that much sun--not the highest yields, but okay. I have mostly half-sun garden areas for vegetables because I don't have a super reliable watering system for the drought months in my full sun areas, and I have concentrated on "quality of life" harvests. For me that is greens and herbs that I can add to other foods and that "hold" awhile in the garden so if workweek is busy, I can still use, and things that overwinter so I get late fall, winter and spring use. Things that I can wander out and pick or cut a little to perk up a meal. --cilantro and parsley--add a few leaves or grow enough to add a whole bunch to specific recipes--instead of having to buy and then find it slimy in the frig just when you need it. --arugula is high-value 'cause you can harvest a cupful of leaves every few days and add to purchased Romaine or other lettuce and mmmmm good. Also mizuna, red mustard, kale. Of course in your site you could grow actual other leaf and head lettuces but I find it more efficient to grow the spicy additions. --collards--I cook both the greens, and the "flowers" when they start to go, in the spring (now). I overplanted this past fall and finally had to put some on the compost pile this spring so I could move on. Agree that peas and some other things tolerate shade better than say eggplant. --basil really does better for me in partial sun--it wilts in all day sun unless totally watered. Here is another thing I am going to work on--in areas that have less sun, you may need to get a really good start on the seedlings. So, I had been putting out transplants of things too late, or starting seeds in mid-fall when if I had started earlier when the sun was "higher" then I think they would have done better. Or if you find that seeds grow too spindly you might find that transplants do better.

Probably any root pruning should be done just before they begin their growth .. so that would be around April. If you're just potting up to the next size, and the plant is rootbound, I do not think it hurts to repot in the early summer. I do all my repotting outside, usually in June. I just don't have the room to do it indoors when the weather is cold (and I'm too much of a wimp to do it outside when it's cold!). By June the plants are really getting going and are putting out a lot of new roots. As long as I don't damage the root system too much, they don't skip a beat.

Thanks Bill and Karyn, No matter what I am always going to have to take the plumeria indoors with me in the winter because of below freezing temps in the northeast. So, Bill you are right- I need to consider what I can move and store. I think I may get a large plastic pot with a wider base. (I liked using clay so make sure the soil got airated and did not stay moist). But I can switch to plastic. It may also be a bit lighter to move then a ceramic pot. (especially when this thing really starts to get big) I can then put the plastic pot in a nicer ceramic pot. this is a good idea. Thanks Bill also for the instructions on how to repot. Am I understanding you correctly that the root ball should be towards the top of the soil in the pot so there is only 1-2 inches above it to the top of the pot? Bill, what potting mix to you recommend? I rather buy something pre-mixed that can be found at my local home depot, but if this isn't feasible I can buy perlite and whatever else I need and make the mix myself. (I'm trying to keep things inexpensive as well.) I already own Miracle Gro bloom booster fertilizer and Super Thrive so i'll probably use both of those to water) Looking forward to your response. I appreciate all the help. Debbie

Plumerias will grow in clay in California but you want to avoid having it too wet, especially in the winter. I raise my plants above ground here and form like a volcano with the stalk coming out the top. I put dark river rocks on the volcano to prevent eroding the shape. I stake the plant to keep it stable. This has worked fine for me as I have about 33 in the ground that are 6'-10' tall and between 6 and 12 years old. Yours is probably a Celadine which can tolerate clay better than many others. Clay is the worst soil but because we have little rain, it is possible. Do not overwater. Clay takes long to dry. Uploaded with ImageShack.us