I looked at the pictures pretty closely and it appears the water is returning through rigid transparent pipe. My reasons are the total lack of water droplets in the air and the very low level of splash in the pond. That is going to be a problem for you. Problem 1. The pipe is likely made for that company by some manufacturer out there and it would be protected by a patent along with any connectors. Problem 2. I am guessing but the input end of the tubing would have to be sunk in concrete or similar weighty substance to avoid having it fall into or across the pond. You might notice the far end of all those arching pipes are hidden by a stone mass. The force of the water flowing through the pipe adds to the problem of a securely anchored base. Problem 3. Transparent tubing grows algae really fast. It would be blocked and really ugly really fast unless the water was loaded with chlorine or some other algaecide. Keeping it clean would be an ongoing task. Problem 4. Re Problem 3: You might have a pond free of algae but any splash is going to kill some plants around the pond if you need that much chemical. Problem 5. The 2 foot width of the pond is going to require the output end of the tubing be very close to the surface of the water to prevent water loss from splashing. It may be so close you will lose the aesthetic you want. On the other hand, maybe my observations are all wrong. You might want to do a little more research. A smaller water arch coming from the ends of a shorter pond might be doable. Sandy

Wow, what a convivial bunch! I've received empathy, been offered reassurance, been given advice, been guided to cool directions on how to build a device that will spare my back (is it pronounced the rather plebeian,TROM-mel or do you give it a little French flare, TromMEL?) and it's even been recommended (twice! By the same person!!) to have a drink while I'm at it -- and with an amen from Sylviatexas to boot! I think I love you guys (almost) as much as I love my new compost. Thanks so much for the helpful responses, Rain

Your exposure sounds about right. Your climate is not ideal but hopefully you are close enough to the Atlantic to buffer temperatures. The vast majority of Fuchsias like mildly cool, humid weather year-round. Hot, humid weather is bad because it breeds diseases that kill them, hot dry weather turns them crisp and dead. Generally, they get sluggish in hot weather; their chemistry is optimized for cool temps. Most of them can stand mild frosts BUT a few can't, and growing in hanging baskets their roots are exposed and if their roots freeze, that kills them. Ideal places are like coastal Oregon and northern California, Madiera, Ireland, west coast of Great Britain, Atlantic coast of France and Spain, much of New Zealand, south-central Chile (where some are native), Tasmania, etc. 1. Watering Fuchsias are NOT particularly fussy about OVER watering. Just make sure that their soil stays reasonably aerated. Because they are in hanging baskets they are unlikely to have standing water at their roots (unless you have one of those types with a saucer under it--which is bad), which would suffocate them. In hot weather you might have to water them DAILY. I would water over misting. They like humidity, but the problem is that fungal spores stick to wet leaves. Misting works better in drier climates like that of California. 2. Fertilizing (chem. breakdown) FEED ME, SEYMOUR! Fuchsias are heavy feeders. They are not picky about brand or type, but liquid fertilizers work well with Fuchsias so that's probably the most common thing to do. Miracle grow works fine for Fuchsias. Besides, in hot weather you'll have to water frequently so you have to fertilize frequently to avoid leaching out all the fertilizer, OR you can use time-release pelleted fertilizers. The usual warning about nitrogen making growth at the expense of blooms doesn't seem to apply to Fuchsias--they bloom on new wood and they NEED some new growth to bloom. A "balanced" all-purpose type is usually OK BUT if they get chlorotic, check if you need fertilizer for acid-loving plants. That's usually only necessary in parts of the country with strongly alkaline water. 3. Dead-heading/'New Arrival Pruning" As for new arrival pruning, I suggest waiting until you can see how the Fuchsia is responding to its new environment, and see how vigorous your particular type is. Highly-bred (overbred) Fuchsias are sometimes lacking in vigor; if yours is one of them go easy on it and only pinch it when it needs it. Wild Fuchsias and some hybrids are rampantly vigorous, and if that is so you can safely prune them fairly severely without worrying. Fuchsias have amazing regenerative abilities and can regrow vigorously from seemingly badly damaged wood. The "pods" are actually berries and by the way they are edible although usually bland (I happen to have the one exception, F. boliviana, which produces mildly sweet and somewhat palatable berries). When ripe they are soft, juicy, and dark reddish-purple. If you get hummingbirds (that would be "Ruby Throated" in your part of the world) then you might actually get berries. Most of the time yours probably won't be pollinated and will fall off on their own. Darker and shiny--hmm, maybe something IS pollinating them! If you do get berries, you can snip them off if you like. Exactly where isn't too critical--you could snip the stem that connects the berry to the branch (ie, just past the berry, before it connects to the branch), but leave the branch alone. The stem that connects the berry to the branch doesn't do anything else and is expendable.

zipppity, what kays said, especially about the having fun! Annie's salsa recipe is tested for safety, and the vinegar amount was increased on top of that, so you can have faith in the processing time, which is officially, as KK says, the time from when the water is boiling vigorously after the jars are all in. If you want to process longer, it won't make it LESS safe or anything. But it may affect the quality of the product (more cooked taste and/or more mushy). I bet it'll still be plenty good, however. I've sometimes left tomato sauce in the BWB for way longer than specified just from getting distracted. No ill effects. Leaving the headspace, BTW, is easy if you are using standard Mason type reg. mouth jars, because a half inch i just about the height of the threaded part, so I fill up to there. (This does not have to be ultra-exact; the main thing is to leave a bit of room so the salsa doesn't bubble out under the lid during processing and prevent the seal from forming.) Many jars seal right away when you remove them from the canner, and those pings are a delight to hear! But as the book says, it can take longer --- a few hours to overnight --- so don't panic. Good luck, and have a GREAT TIME! One more word of advice: canning is easier and more fun if you organize it a bit first. Get the counterops clean and empty, plan where you'll put the jars to fill them (I put them on a dishtowel, to catch drips of water from the steriliing and of salsa if I spill; then I put a clean one down while they are processing to put them on when I remove them wet), get out the funnel and the jar lifter (BUY ONE if you don't have one -- it makes life SO much easier!), have your rings and lids heating while the salsa cooks. Enjoy! You are going to be pleased with the results, I am sure... Zabby