Clara Maria, Many thanks for the help. Answering some questions: >>Just a thought for you Filipe, may be better to find the reason why the plant has dead roots first? Perhaps too much or not enough of something ? (water, light?) Obviously that was the first thing to consider. As I've written on the first post, I moved it to a sunnier location, and reduced watering. >>Does the plant appear to be healthy otherwise? As I've stated also on the first post, it is apparently very healthy! >>If it's healthy, wait. If it's not healthy and you "love" it, don't wait. 20 flowers sound healthy.>20 Flowers are a rare event relatively speaking. In fact, 20 was the higher number of flowers I've ever got, but I've only started growing orchids in addition to bonsai a couple years ago, so I'm still a newbie... I didn't realize it was that good :) I'll take your advice then! >>Sometimes we can love them too much and worry too much. In the worry area, I am an expert! Me too... for that reason, some years ago, when I realized it's more harmful than healthy to be 'too loving', I started to raise considerably the number of plants. For too much love, too much plants :P I'll stick to your wise advices and wait for the blooms to be over and then I'll repot, keeping the water reduced and sun exposure increased in what is possible to manage. Many thanks again! Best regards

Hi Molie, here's what I would do 1. Remove. The spikes they are almost done blooming anyway. 2. Remove all dead brown roots, not needed. 3. Give the roots a wash nder the sink(don't get water in the crown) then rince with some hydrogen peroxide. Get a smaller pot that can hold the roots comfortable. Repot using a mix for phals. Keep in a little lower light for a few weeks also water just enough to keep the mix moist. Since your going to put it in a pot and not a mount, you can place the orchid stright and upright, if it does not do so comfortably you can always use one of the stakes the bloom were tied to to hold it in place. I hope this helps. At lest this is what I would do. Velleta.

I've never seen sap under a phal leaf without finding culprits, tho sometimes you have to look and look til you find them, and they are excellent hiders. The question is where to look, and the answer is look everywhere one of the little buggers can hide. Aphids usually go for tender new growth and wouldn't be on the relatively tough underside of a phal leaf. So look for mealies (white cottony blobs) or scale (bumps that slide off-- ie clearly are not dings). They are hiding somewhere pretty successfully, or you would have seen them already. So look under the leaves, and especially in the junction where the leaf attaches to the stem. It's astonishing the places they can find to hide. I have found them in the leaf junction of a tiny old seedling leaf still hanging on to the stem of a fairly biggish phal, but hidden away below now big newer leaves. Bend the leaf back as far as you dare without breaking it to look inside. I have even found them nestled in the center of a tiny new leaf, the devils. They also hide out in the nodules on a flower stem. I once had a recurring infestation of mealies on a spike of a Doritis hybrid. Those spikes last and last, and the infestation kept coming back, always on the flowers (they *love* flowers). Finally, I cut the flower stem and peeled the covering off the nodules on it. Sure enough, every undeveloped nodule had mealies tucked inside ready to get on the flower when it developed. So check every flower all over with an eagle eye. However, usually sap under the leaf means there is a pest somewhere nearby on that or a nearby leaf. If you use a systemic you are more likely to get them, since they can spread all over, even below the medium. Be sure to spray a lot of stuff in the leaf junction as they can get in there pretty far and you can't always bend the leaf far enough back to see them. Think of it as a safari. :)

"Princess" does better down your way. Too much work indoors for too little IMO. The Lycaste I posted, now that is high yield, little work. Clara