"Thanks, I always wondered about those strawberry pots. Are they a preferred method? besides space and critters, is there any other benefits or drawbacks to the pot method as opposed to the "in the ground" strawberry patch? And how much direct sun should strawberries get? I guess I'm not with it at all because I don't know "mother" and "daughter" are you referring to the offshoots? I'm probably making this more complicated than it needs to be." ******************************************************* I can't speak about containers other than I know that some folks have done it successfully. It just requires more attention to water and fertilizer, as with any container plant. Mine have been in the ground for about 4 years now, which is the only way I've grown them. Hopefully, someone more knowledgable about growing straws in containters will chime in here. The "daughter" plants I referred to are the the smaller plants that start to form from the runners. Once the daughter plants establish roots, they are considered a new plant and can stand on their own, without the help of the "mother". The "umbilical cord", better known as the runner, can be severed at this point with harming either plant. Strawberry plants are really a weed in my eyes, and spread like crazy once they have been established. They are heartier than most give them credit for. Mine get full sun in the garden and do extremely well. I do water a time or two in the spring and periodically during the summer, depending on how dry it is. But really, they are just beneficiaries of my vegetable garden, which is my reason for for watering in the first place. I think they would do just fine without it. Weeds and crowding is probably the strawberry plant's worst enemy. That's one of the reasons why it's so common to cover the ground around the plants with black plastic in commercial growing. Production tapers as they start to get a few years old. That's why it's good to let the runners propagate... so you have newer, more productive, plants the following years. Once the older(3-4 year old) plants slow down on fruit production, they can be removed from the garden, leaving room for the newer offshoots. Hope this helps some.

Seasun, a south window is great, but 5 feet away is too far. You are not giving your phal enough light and it will decline into death if you leave it where it is. Orchids take some time to die, so you'll think you're doing fine, doing ok, maybe not growing like it should. Oh NO!!! What happened to my beautiful orchid???? Here's how where to put the phal figures: phals need about 1000 footcandles of light to grow and bloom. *Outside* at high noon = app 10,000 FC. You are never getting anything near that indoors because of the ceiling and roof of the house cutting off that directly overhead sun. All you are getting is the slanting sun, of much less than 10,000FC. Cut in half by the window glass and screen. Cut in half again *for every foot away from the window*. At 5 feet from your south window you are giving it *100FC or less* by my fairly generous estimate of what your south window actually lets in. In St Louis, I can keep phals *in* a south window with no damage, just far enough from the pane for a shade to slide down. Start moving it closer to the window. The first day move it to about 2 feet from the window. Leave it there a day or two, feeling the leaves where the sun falls on them (if it does). If they are hot, it's too much light, move at least 6" further away. If barely warm or cool, move closer. Repeat above, moving it 6" closer to the window every couple of days til you are at the place where nearer the window = leaves are hot (or it's in the window). There's been a lot of discussion with newbies about how much light to give phals here lately. Mostly newbies wanting to argue for keeping it on an inside wall in a bookcase where it looks great, more experienced growers arguing for more light, LOTS more. Your phal will love you if you do a search for these threads. Use the search function and put in something lilike "phal + light". If you leave it where it is and it dies in 6 months, put it down to needing to learn things the hard way. Actually that's how most of us learned this lesson.

Here's a sketch of what you could do. There are other options to arrange the master part but just to get started. Note it is not to scale. Just a sketch, but I kept some of the measurements in mind as well as wall thicknesses to see that it would fit. I used 4.5" for interior walls. Also couldn't see where all the windows were so this may not work with the windows. Now this assumes you have full standing height in all spaces shown. I'm not sure you do though, but it isn't marked where that starts and stops on the drawing.

Thank You All. Before I read your responses, I had mocked up a 36" chair to check it out. It didn't grab me. Then I looked at a BUNCH of pins on my Pinterest account...funny, the shorter 36" chairs DID look odd. So, I txt'd her this am, told her I couldn't make it, but told her if she doesn't sell them to let me know. They would make great extra chairs for when the table is extended. Most of those type of chairs I have found are 36" in height. Although occasionally I do find a 40" set. I think I will hold out for either a larger set (dimensions and quantity) or maybe go with a totally different style of chair. Thanks again, you all confirmed what was already in my head. Bee