Is this a good Toyota Camry deal?
bostonoak
6 years ago
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bostonoak
6 years ago300ft_anin
6 years agoRelated Discussions
1998 Toyota Camry-Ignition/key problems and were away from home!!
Comments (3)They just phoned, it is the ignition cylinder. $250 plus taxes, and will be installed tomorrow. Glad they found the problem!! Is this where I rave and rant of the high $$$$ to fix it? lol No, I think it is reasonable. And so far the service has been excellent. They were full, but once I explained I was from out of town, they fit me in! Would I have preferred to gone to a small local garage to get the service completed rather than the toyota dealership? Yes of course, but don't know of any, and my inlaws just goto the dealership. Maybe I should just trade it in on a new Scion TC,lol...See MoreObvious Question About Run Away Cars (Like Toyota)
Comments (25)Every electrical motor has a maximum rpm that it can turn without sustaining damage. Once that speed is exceeded, centrifugal force will pull the windings from the armature and they will bind into the stator. In the case of the Prius transaxle we are actually talking about a rotor assembly that has permanent magnets attached to it. Exceed the rated speed of that rotor and it will grenade. The engineers are correct. http://eahart.com/prius/psd/ In order for the gas engine to propel the car, MG1 actually has to be a generator and provide resistance for the engine to push against, as well as MG2 being a motor that helps the gas engine push the car. Using the java applets on the site I provided you get to see the normal operation of the motors in the transaxle, and how they work together. Take note there are times that MG1 actually is forced to spin backwards. The Prius has a maximum vehicle speed of 94mph, with the primary reason being risking over-revving the electric motors and causing a catastrophic failure of the transaxle. Here is a link that might be useful: Prius Power Split Device....See MoreCamry engine repair
Comments (6)My husband, Bob, drilled a .062in hole through the flange which is forged integral with the bolt, injected penetrating oil, let it sit for a day, applied air impact wrench- no effect. Repeated this three or four times with a day's penetration time each - still no effect. This hole does not enter the shank of the bolt. He has now fabricated a suitable tool. 4 ft long steel bar with close fitting pins which fit the holes in the damper/pulley. Impact-grade socket plus impact grade extensions allow breaker bar with pipe extension outside the fender-well. Initial attempt with this rig did not budge the bolt. Measurements from the new bolt, which he bought, show it to be a 16mm bolt. The head is marked 8, which the Toyota manual cross-references to class 8T. The specified installation torque for this bolt is 181 ft-lbs per the Toyota manual. He assumes that a significant part of that torque is between the outer edge of the forged-to- the-bolt flange which is what contacts the pulley and the pulley. Flange diameter is ~1 1/2 to 2in. That same torque/friction will exist when attempting to loosen the bolt. Therefore, much of the torque being applied to remove the bolt, isn't being transmitted through the shank of the bolt to the threads. The present plan is to support the fixture which holds the pulley, put a suitable weight on the pipe which extends the breaker bar, and let it sit for a day or two to see if the assumed thread locker creeps over time. He's at a loss how to make a good estimate as to how many ft-lbs to apply by that long lever. Naturally, he's worried about twisting off the bolt. He also now has access to a larger air compressor at a different location which we can bring over. Suggestions, comments, and ideas requested and welcomed. Bob has appreciated your previous comments on this matter....See MoreAre those car trade in solicitations ever a good deal
Comments (10)Thanks for the advice. Cool, I have wondered why they bother but I guess it is just advertising Ang I agree with your father. I have seen those ads and you see in small prints that a FICO of over 750 is often needed. One time a credit union worked better, another time it was the dealership. I do think things have changed with financing as I posted above, now they do get a cut so they want you to finance with them but I agree that except in advertised offers, they will try to steer you higher if they can and pocket the difference unless you show them a better offer. However that is on the interest rate, not the price of the car. My needs are very specific such that at any point I can only buy one or two cars that are out there so if there is an incentive great, otherwise the last time my lease was up and I needed that car and nothing else was as good an option. Luann, I totally believe you got a good deal I have never traded in before. On my last car I could not buy 2 year old because the model with 8 seats was not available until 2004 when I bought my car (I have 5 children actually back then it was 3 plus 2 on the way!). The model I am considering also was not available as currently equiped before this year. When I buy a car I go to the various web sites, including any enthusiast web sites such as Sienna Club. Org. They usually have an area where people brag about their best deal and I will usually try to match it. I will pay one visit to a dealership I do not plan to buy at usually the full service high pressure one so I can test drive and see the car and find out which options are definitely available (sometimes they are listed but are not regionally available, avoids the cannot get it nonsense that salesment pull). Then I will go to the various dealer websites within 50 miles. If they give you access to inventory I will check out their inventory. At this point based on the MSRP listed I can tell which cars have the packages I want in their inventory. The reality is if they have 4 blue minivans with leather and only one with cloth you can probably get a better deal percentage wise on the one with leather (assuming you want that). I will then contact whatever dealerships have a decent amount of inventory or are known for discounting. Then I will pay a visit to various dealerships in the area to see what I can get in person from the ones with lots of inventory of the specific car, package and color I want or that I know from experience really will discount. If it all possible I will deal with the guy in the booth rather than the salesperson. I always take the wholesale cost breakdown with me, knowing it is not the true invoice because there is usually a holdback of 2% of the base price Also I have noticed that Edmunds TMV price should be ignored. It is usually higher than what I have paid One thing about the inventory, sometimes things are listed but are not for sale, owners wife is driving it and it will be a demo in a month. So just because the gray is listed, it might not be there when you get there...See Morebostonoak
6 years ago300ft_anin
6 years agobostonoak
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago300ft_anin
6 years agobostonoak
6 years ago300ft_anin
6 years agobostonoak
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago300ft_anin
6 years agojakkom
6 years agoDidier Aubin
6 years ago
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