I agree with chas, Hertford. You didn't say how the Army Corps of Engineers came to be involved in telling you what you can and can't do with this wet place on your property in the first place (did you contact them, or did they contact you, for instance?). But generally, any place officially designated by the government as a "wetland" is subject to a number of different protections that even someone like me (who belongs to half a dozen conservation societies) doesn't really know all the ins and outs of. A wetland also usually does NOT mean "pond." "Wetlands" are generally defined as areas that are covered in water part or most of the year, but at least parts of them are dry part of the time (I think). Bogs, marshes and swamps all fall into the designation of "wetland." It's possible the ACE WILL let you do enough with that property to clean it up and pretty it up and make it into more of a pond. Then again, you may have to settle for just cleaning it up some, and allowing for what wildlife naturally occurs there (although ACE or not, I'd NOT be willing to allow venomous snakes to remain that close to my house). Where you live, that could include copperheads, rattlesnakes and water moccasins, I think, plus possibly coral snakes, the most venomous snake in North America (venom similar to the cobra). You probably need to do a lot of research, but as far as cutting down the trees and shrubs, and any other "weeds" you want to get out of there, I'd say NOW is the time to do it, since during the winter any snakes that live there WILL be in hibernation and not likely to send you to the hospital. Then, come spring, they'll be easier to see and deal with. Best of luck, Jeff

Plants You have a lot. I'm not on site so hard to tell, but from the pics I'd probably remove all the plants from the pond and vacuum or scoop the bottom with a swimming pool leaf rake. When removing the plants note how deep they are. Moving them to deeper water might be an issue. For everything other than lilies moving plants to more shallow water, or even above the water is almost always better for the plants, so that would be OK if you like. Then I could assess the plants and pond better. Pots, baskets, directly plants? Can pots be reused? I can now see the pond without plants. How's it look to me? Were some plants hiding something that I want to continue to hide? I come up with a plan. Buy replacement pots? Maybe reduce the number of species returned to the pond. If the plants are planted directly in soil, not pots, you really have to empty the pond and deal with the plants. Fish have to be moved. That's a whole deal I won't get into now. Most (all) the plants will have to be divided. Depends on when last done. I just made a post on this. Most of dealing with plants just has to be learned with experience. But here's some things you may not know... When removed from the pond the plants can stay out of water for a really long time. Weeks, even months. The leaves may die back but the roots (rhizomes) last a long time out of water. Keeping them in water can actually cause rot. You can also plant them in regular garden pots with dirt, same as a regular garden plant, and just keep them well watered and they grow great. This is true for every plant except lilies, floaters and plants that grow completely underwater. Some times if you look up a plant on the web or printed on the label when buying a plant it will say 6" of water, or 12" of water, or whatever. Many people think that means the plant must be in that much water. This is actually the maximum depth the plant can take. Most of these do better the less water. Even planted in the yard many of these plants will do well. Here in Phoenix many kinds of "pond plants" are used in yards. This is because "pond plant" isn't really a very good term... "vernal pool plant" would be better. They've adapted to living in standing water and also dry periods when there's no water which is what a vernal pool is. So knowing this can make your life easier, more options. Plants inside the pond = more work. So reducing them will be less work in the future. You can put some of these into pots around the edge of the pond, or in the ground, or switch to other kinds of plants around the edge. Gives you the same lush look with way less work and the pond appears much larger. Here are some pics of a pond I built in San Jose CA to demonstrate. No plant is inside the pond. And here the pot on the left is a "pond plant" called Horsetail Rush. It's a foam pot with no drainage hole, soil from the yard. This plant, like most "pond plants" can be very invasive, but no problem in a pot. And no drainage holes means no straining from leaking water (the pot on the right need drainage and therefore a catch pan under it). Go on vacation for a week or two the pot is fine with no watering. When it's time to divide it's no big deal.

The frog isn't necessarily doomed - you'd be amazed at the freeze tolerance of most temperate-ranging anurans and caudates - there are many papers coming out showing how hardy these animals are. Bullfrogs are one of the most successful anurans out there and its for a reason - they are ridiculously adapatable and robust animals. Another thing to consider - bullfrogs have had their numbers be unnaturally increased by human encroachment - they are one of the few subsidized amphibian species out there (subsized species are those whose numbers are denser in areas of human inhabitation or as a result of human influence than they would be in a more natural environment - good examples of this are raccoons, skunks, and opossums) - if one dies, there will be plenty more to take its place. ~Mike

For some reason I am no longer able to add photos, nor can I edit old posts; that kind of stinks. Winter doesn't get very cold here, there is rarely some frost or a little snow, but it's not common, nor does it last long. I'm not planning to do anything to winterize this pond. A large part of its appeal is the adaptation and evolution of the system; from that perspective, the only reasonable winter plan is to let anything that can't stand the conditions die, and something else grow in to fill the niche. I think the overall oxygen level is slowly but steadily improving. It's been a long while since I've found a fish corpse. Not only that, the minnows (adults and fry both) are cruising lower in the water, they aren't skimming just below the surface all the time anymore. I suspect adding the sand and gravel is helping that, in two ways: the decomposition cycle is starting to find a stable balance point, no longer robbing oxygen in big bursts; and some of the anacharis has anchored itself to the bottom, where any oxygen produced by photosynthesis must be exchanged into the water, not the air.