Just wanted to update on the crown gall problem with DA. They have since replaced the plants and they looked fine except for again there was some mold on one of the canes. I think that it is more of a shipping problem than a DA problem. Heat and moisture. Anyway when I called them I also asked if the crown gall was in the field. Their response was that they "do their best" to keep diseases out of the field. Unfortunately I did not save their email to me or I would share it. So we will see how these roses fare. They are looking pretty good. All kinds of shoots coming out and I never know what to prune off. I know to cut the inward facing shoots but still, I just hate cutting too much. I don't grow many roses because of my climate on the central Calif. coast. If it's not mildew and botrytis then it's thrips and rose slugs. I have a beautiful Marilyn Monroe that's on fortuniana and she is 5-6' (and would be just as wide if not for a fence) that I have sprayed and sprayed and still every year the botrytis comes back. Just so disheartening. Next time I think I will take Cynthia's advice and order from Roses Unlimited. Over the years I have heard nothing but great things about them. Thanks for everyone's replies, Janet

Wait. I'm in St. Clair Shores about an hour north east of you on the lake. It's too soon to even think about pruning here in Michigan. I know the weather has been very warm but it's also still getting very cold most nights. The ground is still close to freezing temperatures. I know because I tried to dig in some daffodil bulbs I forgot to plant last fall. About froze my hands off! And it was 70 degrees out that day, lol! As mad_gallica said, when the forsythias start to bloom is a good rule of thumb for when to prune your roses. It means the soil has warmed up enough to support active growth. That's when your roses will begin to push new growth. And as Jackie said, do not prune them down in the fall. Hard pruning should only be done in the spring. In the fall, if something is very top heavy, stake and tie it to keep it safe from the winter winds but do not cut it down. Roses store the food they need to come back with in the spring in those canes. If you cut it all off they don't have the energy they need to sprout in the early spring before they have new leaves to feed themselves with. Yes, you lose a certain amount of it to winter but if you cut the top off you have no where to go but down and could end up with just the root stock left. Mislabels are very common in those cheap bagged roses at the big box stores. If you want to be sure you get the rose you're looking for try one of your local nurseries. I'm sure there are some great ones in Ann Arbor. They're a little more expensive but they'll be much bigger and healthier and you'll be sure to get what you want.

Kate, I love the structure. It reminds me of my grandmothers swing I'd spend time on as a child. Personally, If the structure is secure, I would replace the plastic swing that was removed with rustic/antique swing - thick rope and "aged" wood or something like that. You could then use that beautiful fence to grow some climbing roses on that would create wonderful backdrop. Other options - Unless you want to go to the work of pillaring a rose on each side of the structure you would need to modify the structure so you would have a surface to attach the main canes as horizontal as possible. Hoobv mentioned attaching wire in the middle. You could also create a three dimensional structure (arbor) by placing a similar structure in front of this and attaching it by lattice on the sides and supports at the top. As far as roses (not for a pillar, however) I would never be without Eden, aka Pierre de Ronsard.

Hi Christof Glad to hear the clematis is doing well. For a second plant, how about Mme Julia Correvon? http://www.helpmefind.com/clematis/l.php?l=2.49851.1&tab=36 It is among the most long and free blooming and easy care clematis. It’s the color of rose wine...pinkish red with some violet shading...I think will go very nicely with both blue-purple VV and apricot-orange CPM. (It’s classified as a red clematis, but clematis are really not true red)