I am having tomato problems, It happens every year when my tomato's are young plants in my starter room. All of the other plants are fine. The leaves on the young tomato's start to curl up, then they flip over, sag and fall off. the top of the plant keeps growing, and repeats the cycle, when I move them out to the green house all is well. Fresh unused sterile coco coir. I don't think it is a ph problem, light problem, heat or wind problem. I am stumped. I use the same food, ph meter for all the plants in the green house and they thrive out there. I also have some new gnats but that's not the problem. Any help would be great.

I've looked into an indoor growing system for tomatoes in winter. The proper lighting for full-size tomatoes inside and the reflective tent cost about $800. Hydroponics adds to that cost, but I do not know how much. I do not see any reflective material in your photos. I use camping mylar " survival blankets" to magnify plant lights when starting seedlings. Even coating the cardboard that I see in the photos with aluminium foil would help a little bit. But you probably need expensive plant lighting. The lights that they sell to grow herbs and lettuce indoors are not strong enough for tomatoes.

It won't hurt you to eat affected. It just looks ugly. And it's not safe for canning. But if it's bacterial spot, there will be reduced fruit yield as the disease often attacks peduncles and flowers in addition to foliage. To be clear, the fruit shown in your last picture is not showing bacterial spot lesions. It's showing some kind of physical damage, probably environmental or pest damage. Once again, though, contact your local extension to get an actual diagnosis. These sorts of things can be iffy to diagnose over the Internet unless the presentation is unmistakeable, especially if you have more than one issue going on.

The purple edges could have originated with a deficiency, but since it's on the oldest leaves, which might be senescing anyway, it's hard to say. It's common for young seedlings to have phosphorus deficiency, even when grown under ideal conditions, and they outgrow it as they mature. Those leaves probably have been phosphorus deficient at one time. Not a big deal unless you're seeing symptoms on newer growth. Leaf mold is a fungus. As for keeping things "natural", that's a word that's a moving target, so I don't really know how you define that. If you mean without intervention, your plants will succumb to nutrient problems if you don't fertilize them regularly. So you definitely need to intervene there. You can try to not intervene with regard to diseases by being hypervigilant and pruning off any affected leaves immediately upon noticing the slightest symptoms. Since you live in an area that doesn't have blazing sun, perhaps you can get away with the defoliation, although loss of photosynthesis capacity can also affect production and flavor of fruit. I personally would not try to grow tomatoes in a cool, humid environment like yours without fungicide. Note that the safer, organic fungicides available to home gardeners are almost all primarily preventative in nature. They are not curative. Once your plants have disease, the best they can do is slow down infection of unaffected foliage. And because you're growing in too-small containers, the strategy of giving plants the best conditions and preventing stress to them in order to boost their ability to resist disease is not available to you. The varieties you're growing will be very stressed in those small containers once they get larger. If you want to grow tomatoes without spraying, in future figure out what diseases are common to your garden and select hybrid varieties bred for resistance to those diseases. Even that's not perfect, as resistance does not equal immunity--it just means the plants resist the disease longer and go down from them more slowly--but it could give you enough of a boost to get decent production. And research best growing practices, such as adequate container size.