Light green or yellowish patches on leaves sometimes accompanies by brown spots on the back side of leaves is a sign of Powdery Mildew (Microsphaera azaleae). One of the puzzling aspects of this fungal problem is the fact that two different affected azaleas or rhododendrons vary in appearance. Rhododendron cultivar 'Unique,' for instance, shows almost no upper leaf changes, other than occasional very faint lighter yellowish areas, while the underside of the leaves will be completely covered in brown spots. A deep green leaf may begin to show lighter green patches, and these areas will gradually become more yellow. Another cultivar, 'Virginia Richards,' gets brownish purple spots on both tops and bottoms of leaves. This common disease is named Powdery Mildew despite how little the symptoms resemble the familiar fungal disease often seen on roses and azaleas. Usually the disease doesn't produce the familiar white powder-like spores, although late in the summer some may become visible. The disease manifests instead as color changes in the leaves, followed by defoliation toward the end of the growing season. Many azaleas, if basically healthy, will coexist with the disease and seem to outgrow or at least survive the symptoms. Last year's leaves, once they have been hit by the disease, will always have it, with symptoms persisting from year to year until the leaves drop off. High relative humidity at night and low relative humidity during day with 70-80 F (22-27 C) temperatures is ideal for the disease to flourish. * Keep azaleas healthy to help them manage this problem. If you notice symptoms on last year's leaves, consider protecting the new growth with a fungicide . Apply it now to the new growth as it expands, before symptoms appear on this spring's leaves. Fungicides won't get rid of the existing problem on old leaves. A new fungicide, 'Remedy,' which is a potassium bicarbonate (made by Bonide Company), is registered for the problem. Thorough leaf coverage is necessary with all fungicides. Fungicides containing sulfur (such as Safer Garden Fungicide RTU) are also registered. Others are Funginex (sold as Ortho RosePride Funginex Rose and Shrub Disease Control Concentrate.) Be very careful to read all label instructions, and wear protective goggles and gloves. Funginex can be corrosive to eyes. For more information see the section above on 'azalea powdery mildew'. The symptoms are different, but the organism and control are the same. * Rhododendrons that have been hybridized with Rhododendron cinnabarinum as one of the parent plants do get the disease severely. Two of those are 'Elizabeth' and 'Lady Chamberlain.' The Cornish Cross hybrids, including 'Virginia Richards,' 'Seta' and 'Mrs. G.W. Leak' seem vulnerable also. Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow azaleas and their problems.

What type of soil do you have? Is it sandy? Yes, the soil here is quite sandy, although when I planted I used black kow, peat moss and plain potting soil, most of it is still where I originally put it. What do the leaves look like? Are they yellowing with green veins? The leaves are not discolored, they are very green, except for the older ones that are dying, they are just becoming brown. Is the plant near any masonry structures like a cement foundation? Nope. Are there new buds with new leaves ready to open up? Only one or two, most of the others have already opened up since it's azalea bloom here in N. Florida. Is the azalea near plants that are sprayed with any pesticides? No. Haven't sprayed at all this year. Do pets like to use your azalea as a fire hydrant? Not that I know of, the da** dogs whose owners let them have the run of the neighborhood usually just pee on my fence to make my dog crazy. Has anyone been digging or planting under the azalea? No. The azalea that I have is a Southern Indica, I'm pretty sure it's Formosa, (lost the tag years back and never wrote it down) deep pink blooms, almost purple. It is a heat tolerant azalea that can handle the sun here in Fl during the summer, even though every now and again it looks like it's dying, it comes back a few days later and looks healthy. I really have no idea what is wrong with it. I need to charge my camera battery and I will post a photo of it. That may help a bit. Thanks Rhodyman.. Christine

Shawn, assuming you loosened the rootball well, didn't plant deeper than the azalea was growing in the nursery container, and gave it a site with reasonable drainage (reasonable for the unreasonable amount of rain we've had)...your leaf loss is probably normal. The lower oldest leaves will generally drop off at approx three years of age. If more of a mounded full shape was your goal, you could prune some of those longest stems back right after Elsie blooms to encourage denser branching...I tend to like the more natural shape myself :) Spread a little more of than compost over the root zone this Spring; your azalea shouldn't require anything else.

Morz8 is right on with his recommendations. I will expand the description a little: Prolonged drought weakens plants and often results in the appearance of fungal cankers on the branches of older azaleas. Look for branches that wilt in hot, dry weather in late summer and be sure to water azaleas if drought drags on more than a few weeks. Prune out the affected branches to stop the spread of fungal canker diseases. Azalea Dieback is caused by the fungus Phomopsis rhododendri. Typically, dying branches (stem dieback) begin to appear on an otherwise healthy plant. The leaves die and can remain attached to the plant until late summer. Usually a single branch on an established plant is affected. Scraping away the bark with a knife reveals discolored wood under the bark that appears chocolate brown. Dieback is difficult to control on azaleas in the landscape. The azalea varieties that are the least susceptible include: 'Delaware Valley White,' 'Hershey Red,' 'Pink Gumpo' and 'Snow.' Reduce stress to the plants by planting in partial shade and watering during dry periods. Avoid wounding the plant. Prune infected branches well below all discolored wood and dispose of dead plant material. Clean pruning tools between cuts with a dilute solution of household bleach (1 part bleach to 9 parts water). Borers are easy to diagnose. The dead branch is hollow near where it meets the live branch. Bark split is easy to see if you look in the right place. It is usually near where the plant comes out of the ground and usually affects one the entire plant or an entire branch from the ground up. A fifth cause is the normal natural trimming a plant does of interior branches that don't receive enough light.