I was looking for a shallower one as well. It seems that most full size units are a bit under 24" but the handle brings them to over 25". Jsceva is right about the Perlicks. Also, Miele's unit is a bit under 24" (it has a flush handle) but really pricey--I am not willing to spend $$$ on a wine cooler. I just found a Uline wine captain that also has a flush handle that is much less money so I am going to go with that one. If you mean less than 24" that you can go with the "almost 24" then check it out.

I have this 'fridge as well... here is the text from my review of it on epinions: When we went shopping for a refrigerator for our kitchen, we set out to get a Whirlpool - as they have a really good reputation these days. After researching a little, I found out that KitchenAid refrigerators are actually made by Whirlpool; which led us to this model. One of the things that drew us to the his model is that it was one of the biggest ones that was still counter depth. At 24.5 cubic feet, it is 10-20% bigger than some of the other counter depth models in this price range. There is 14.9 cubic feet in the fridge, and 9.6 in the freezer. As far as sound goes, it isn't silent - but it is pretty quiet - not noticeable. However the icemaker makes a pretty good racket when a load empties - especially if the bin is mostly empty. This unit maintains the temperatures very well - of course this is expected - I experimented moving the temps around and was able to get them to stay where I set them. I verified the temperature accuracy with a separate digital thermometer. We have noticed that produce stays fresher longer than our in our previous refrigerators (a 20 year old sub-zero, and a 5 year old Kenmore). Some features we like (and dislike): -- water and ice dispenser We don't really like the ice/water dispenser touch pads - if you press too high up, they don't engage and just buzz a little - if you go too low, the ice bounces off the rim of the glass and flies out all over the floor. We prefer the paddle types available on other models. Also, the water has an annoying delayed post dispense drip - ours gives 3 big drips about half a second apart - so, you have to remember to keep your cup there an extra moment, or else you end up with a mess in the drip tray. One gimmicky feature it has is when you are dispensing water, it displays a running meter of the ounces dispensed. We do like the ice maker location in the door. It is super easy to yank it out and fill the cooler, or whatnot. -- water filter - it has the typical cylinder filter located in the base of the fridge. It is different than the old ones in that it doesn't twist out, you just press a button and it pops out. The dispenser display has a button to press that shows the % of filter life remaining remaining. -- crushed ice - what can I say, we like crushed ice - I think I might try running some of the branches from my yard through this puppy, I think it might mulch them up pretty good :) -- two separate dispensers (one for ice, one for water) - we like this much better than the single dispenser models, we prefer to just hold the cup up,fill it with ice, move it over 2 inches and fill it with water - no button fiddling; much easier for the kids to use.... leading me the next feature... -- child lockout button - this is important if you have toddlers that like to play with the ice/water dispenser. -- LED night light - the light blue LED lighting has 5 or 6 different intensity levels. It has a light sensor above the dispenser (which for some odd reason they felt the need to label "light sensor" - do I really care that the little glass dot is a light sensor???? not me). There are three settings for the light, off all the time, on all the time, or "auto". In the auto mode, it keeps the light on really dim, and then goes on full when you dispense. I assumed that the light sensor would shut the lights off if the room was bright; however, that is not the case, it actually makes the light brighter when the room is well lit. I verified this with a flash light... (too much time on my hands). -- Digital temperature read out inside the refrigerator part - reads the actual temperatures of the fridge and freezer - if you press the /- buttons, it switches to the temperature setting (which hopefully is the same number). I verified this with another thermometer (mostly because I am a big nerd). -- "keep your milk extra cold" vent from the freezer section: there is a little vent that you can open that points right where you would put your milk jugs in the door. It supposedly blows air from the freezer on your milk. We tried it, but it didn't seem to have much effect. Neat idea though. -- Adjustable shelves, bins, and drawers The interior three shelves are glass, with metal braces, and plastic trim pieces and are advertised as "spill proof", meaning they have a little lip to stop liquids from waterfalling all the way down into your lettuce. The four door bins and 3 drawers are all plastic. Honestly, for a $2500 fridge, the drawers feel a little flimsy. They also include a wine bottle hangy thing, as well as a six pack door rack. The bottom drawer is called a "fresh chill locker", and it has its own temperature adjustment. The regular crisper drawer has a humidity adjustment and has a seal on it to keep it separated from the rest of the fridge. This may be the reason produce stays fresher. Note, you must open the doors farther than 90 degrees in order to open the drawers. The 4 freezer shelves and the 3 drawers are all coated wire. Pretty sturdy. There are three adjustable door bins in the freezer. -- The "maxcool" function is really a good feature. Basically, you use this when you fill it up with new groceries, or if you've had the door open too long (like when you are putting away new groceries - by the way, there is no "door open" alarm on this model). It puts the fridge into a super-duper cooling mode; bringing the temperature down much faster than usual. -- Although the front is stainless, be advised that the sides are black (which is often the case with SS appliances) -- The stainless finish sure looks nice when it is clean - but it is so easy to smudge. We found some spray on stainless cleaner that helps out with this a lot. Also, please note that magnets do not stick to the stainless front. -- lighting: there are two bulbs in the top of the fridge section, and two bulbs near the bottom third to light the drawers and bottom part. The freezer has one bulb on the top, and one bulb in the middle. Overall, the lighting is pretty good. -- warranty - 1 year, parts and labor, 10 years on the sealed refrigeration system (compressor, evaporator, condenser, dryer, connecting tubing)

I'd agree with those who suggest having 15" lowers if possible. I can't fit 15" where mine are because of a walkway and squeezing in a laundry room behind the nook. It was either 12" or nothing in my case, and I needed it for the two sets of family china. But if I had the 3" to spare, I'd definitely go for the 15" lowers and 12" uppers. If you're using it everyday, it's nice to be able to look downward at what you're doing, even if you have to pull something out to the edge of the counter. The cabinet company suggested that you can save money if you only want cabinets with shelves in them by using an upper cabinet on the lowers and having your contractor build a small recessed base to set it on. You trim it out the same as a base with toe kick and all and it looks just like a base. I think you'd need to be confident in your contractor's ability to measure and make everything level and all, but I don't doubt you'd save money. I'm opting to use custom 12"depth bases because I really need the drawers on the bases. The only other thing I'd watch is the exposed end of the cabinet in the middle of the run. I've read stories on GW where the end panel finish didn't closely match the face finish, primarily because the doors are glazed and the end panels were not, or the plywood end took up the stain differently than the hardwood fronts. I'd just ask the question of the cabinet company with your particular finish. If you're uncertain of the exact match, you could disguise it with a valance or some other decorative trim.

Not awkward at all... Nice photoshopping! I like it. Thank you for the ideas, but unfortunately I don't think my wife,(we), like the idea of the open shelving. I think we will end up doing 27 inches in the deep part and 21 on the shallow part! Buy the way... On the right side of the cabinets you see an empty wall space, about 2.5 feet of space which will be used as cubbies for kids backpacks and "stuff". The back door is in the l right next to it. All of your input has been greatly appreciated... Except the first person to comment.....unfortunately her comment was impersonal, arrogant and not completely correct!