Hi Chris Thanks for your guess. I checked some of the pics I could find of the plant your guess was, but I saw the rows of little leaves are much shorter than the ones my plant has. Some full leaves fit aa A4 size paper. Calin

@scarediecats,. I found this on the web. I live in a neighboring state, Ohio, and thought I'd look up about my sister beautiful mimosa. (Bark is falling off) enjoy . Native to Iran and China, mimosa (Albizia julibrissin) was first introduced in the United States in the 1780s. Since then, the tree has spread throughout warm, mild regions. In fact, in some places, it is regarded as a weed because the seeds prolifically self-sow. Mimosa doesn't grow well in northern climates, but is well-adapted to mild coastal zones. Cold injuries, though not impossible, are rare here. Cold Injury Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9, mimosa can tolerate more cold than many trees growing in Mediterranean climates. In fact, cold injury is rare in these regions. However, a sudden, prolonged freeze can cause damage. Twigs and branches turn brown and die back. In extreme cases, the entire tree might die back. Occasionally, the trees' trunks develop cracks, caused by alternating periods of cold and warm temperatures. Sunscald occurs when the harsh winter sun damages the bark of young trees, causing brown or sunken patches on the trunk. These problems are rare in mimosas planted in mild climates. Prevention and Treatment Although you can't prevent frost damage in all cases, a few precautions can minimize the risk. Trees stressed by drought, poor soil or disease are more vulnerable to frost injury. Proper growing conditions can help trees weather cold temperatures. Growing trees in a protected area near a house or other trees can also help. Mimosa trees should never be fertilized in late summer. Fertilizing encourages new growth, prone to frost damage. If a tree does sustain injury, the best course is to prune back the branches to remove damage. Dead branches can be identified in one of two ways. Branches that fail to produce new growth in the spring are likely dead. Live branches will have soft, green material if you scrape away a bit of the bark. but dead branches are hard and brown. Make clean cuts one-quarter inch above an outward-facing bud to encourage new growth. Disease Frost damage is rare in coastal regions. Disease is the more likely culprit of injury or death to the mimosa tree. One disease, in particular, fusarium wilt, commonly infects mimosas. Yellowing leaves or early defoliation is the first symptom. As the disease progresses, the bark cracks and branches die back. Sometimes, the tree oozes a foul-smelling white or yellow foam. Eventually, the entire tree perishes. Unfortunately, no cure is available for this lethal disease, but prompt removal can prevent its spread. Distinguishing Between Disease and Cold Injury Because treatments vary, depending on the cause of the injury, it's important to distinguish between frost and disease damage. Frost damage occurs suddenly after a cold snap, while damage from disease usually progresses over several months or even years. Symptoms from frost damage occur primarily in the winter; disease damage is often most evident in the summer and fall.

Are you saying that the spiders are somehow killing your tree? I'm not sure that I've seen anything like that and can't help but wonder if something else isn't going on. Mimosa are very susceptible to spider mites...could they be causing the webs you've mentioned? Or even some other critter? How about a picture of the damage?

My first guess would be overwatering. Like moochinka said, you should be the best one to determine if this is true. I know in the past i have been guilty of watering an already root rotted plant because I thought the falling leaves where a sign of under watering. Dig deep with your finger and feel the soil. If this is not the case, cold drafts near a cold winter window sill could also cause damage. Humidity is also a concern in a winter heated house. FICUS RETUSA can be tempermental to changes in the environment. Try to ease it into changes in the seasons. Bring the tree outside when weather permits. Well draining soil moist but not soggy. Moderate humidity. Bright light. Feed with a balanced fertilizer. I currently use a 3-1-2 ratio npk fert (recommended on GW) for most of my trees now. Also have used a 1-1-1 in the past. I also like a little root fungi (Mycorrhizal) in the mix. Fyi my little F. Retusa was also dropping leaves this week Figs that drop leaves a lot of times adapt and flourish again. Observe changes in you tree and act accordingly. Good luck !