What is the main purpose you see in the island? The storage, the microwave, or the seating?

I feel like the seating may be redundant in such a small house and 12" inches is tight for legroom.

have you thought of squaring the island....-maybe 2 people on 2 sides-can face each other more. If you want the island as opposed to a cart, I would try to maximize what it offers for the seated folk.Right now-lined up and facing stairway door-just not sure...seems like it could be better. Think about a banquette back built into stairway wall on top left space-giving a separate and distinct feel to that dining zone.....then the island will have it's own distinct vibe/use. Right now with typical table and seating, and island , it's going to be all walking around and navigating edges of table/island...moving stools and chairs all the time. Did you have any other ideas?

Re peninsula: place fridge where dishwasher is.....move dishwasher onto 12 foot wall....skooch range to the right and swing peninsula from fridge/pantry position,relatively. With the big open area where end of peninsula would be, seating could be a good destination spot, depending on how you do it.

Have you considered eliminating the short left run of cabinets/counters?

Are you planning to keep the dining area with a table or is the island going to be your only eating space? If the space to the left of the stairs is your dining area, I'm concerned that you will not have enough space for the island + table + aisle b/w the island and table. Maybe if the table were a banquette with a bench against the far left wall they might all fit.

What are the dimensions in the image below (labeled A, B, etc.)?

Edited to add:
I think "H" is 5'9" based on your hand-drawn layout.

Is "B" 37"?

I realize you said that this is what you don't want, but I think this works better than an island. I would consider having the overhang only at the end for two people, but a third could be squeezed in on occasion if the MW cabinet were shallow. Something is going to be sorta in front of the steps no matter what if you want this extra run of counter as a peninsula or as an island.

Can you post your existing as-built floor plan? For a small home, there are some inefficiencies and I think overall you can do better. Especially that 8'6" wide master bedroom. I gutted a 1200 sf, 2/1 house and made it a 3/2 with laundry in 2015, so I've been down this road before and I have some ideas for you.

what you have to settle in your mind for your goals, is, with regards this 1000sq foot home.....do you want 1. bigger kitchen area...or 2. more kitchen/dining "gathering " areas around island/table/peninsula as opposed to 3. more living room space with upholstered seating allocated for gatherings and so forth. You haven't indicated...and you just can't have it all. I personally would cut back on the working part of your kitchen---[fridge and sink can be smaller and maybe 18 dishwasher]...and carefully think about seating options for dining....as I would not want to compromise the living room seating ....would want flexibility with furnishings there.

A few things to keep in mind...

Refrigerator...Counter-depth refrigerators are really around 30" deep when including the doors & handles. The "counter-depth" designation only refers to the refrigerator box, not the doors and handles. That means your refrigerator is going to stick out around 6" farther than you show.

Aisle widths...Unless you are planning inset cabinets with no counter overhang to protect the cabinets (something I do not recommend), your aisles are narrower than the labels show.

Aisle widths are measured to/from the items that stick out into the aisle the farthest -- counter overhangs, appliance handles, walls, etc.

Standard overhang is 1.5" (to cover the doors/drawer fronts + knobs/pulls). The overhang covers the doors/drawer fronts and protects them and the cabinets from damage due to spills, etc. (24" is just the depth of the cabinet boxes, it does not include the door/drawer front or knob/pull.)

Island size...In your layout, you don't include overhangs, so it will be bigger than you show. There will be 1.5" in the front and on the sides.

If you want seating, the island should be 41.5" or 40.5" deep, depending on whether you have a finished end panel on the back of the island cabinets (adds about 1" of depth). Personally, I'd either eliminate the seating or stick with one seat (maybe on the end) and have the rest be cabinets to maximize storage. Do you really need a lot of Kitchen/Dining seating space?

1.5" overhang + 24"D cabinets + 1" end panel + 15" seating overhang = 41.5"

I'd eliminate the finished end panel (or decorative door) and just have the back of the cabinets finished to match the front. That gains you at least 1".

Seating minimums for counter-height seating:

• Overhang: 15" clear leg/knee space
• Linear space: 24" per seat

Questions:

• Does the sink have to be centered on the window? You have more options if it doesn't have to be centered.

• How many seats do you really need, if any?

• What is your family composition? # adults? # children? If children, age range?

Hi everyone, thank you so much for your comments! buehl thanks for the tips! I've left 42" on all sides of the island, which I know might be a tight specifically where the fridge is - I may increase the space there by moving island over or shortening it (if I go with an island). I'm actually fixing up this house to sell it, and the neighbourhood is very family oriented (parents with 1 - 3 kids). Most houses selling seem to have islands, but their stairway placement is different from mine and allows a better layout. I personally love island seating but I do see how it may not be necessary with dining room seating so close by... but if you have guests over, the extra seating is always nice!

Below is a better dimensioned drawing that clears up some of the unknowns. Sorry for such bad quality and not perfectly to scale, I'm not using the greatest program. (This is also the most up to date version of the bedrooms, the one in the question was slightly outdated in the master bedroom setup but kitchen/dining/living room haven't changed).

sena01 - thank you so much
for the renderings - it's always nice to see something in 3D. Do you mind
sharing what program you've used? I love your idea of putting an 18" deep
pantry on the stairway wall, to make the kitchen a bit wider and then I'm able
to put the dishwasher beside the sink. I think I'll definitely do that! I would
prefer the microwave in the island rather than beside the stove, because
otherwise that wall feels a bit stainless steel heavy with range, mw, fridge
all beside each other. I also agree that the island looks best turned parallel
with the longer wall, but I don't typically like small square islands... never
really considered something on wheels though!

herbflavor that was my other plan, to move the fridge
over to the stairway wall and do a peninsula starting from the fridge's current
placement. I just didn't know if I wanted something sticking out 30" on
that stairway wall making that spot feel even more narrow - and seeing sena01's
rendering above I like making that wall of cabinetry narrower, like 18" deep.

palimpsest thank you for the drawing! I did do some drawings up with the peninsula extending there as well, but when you're in the space it does feel quite cramped!

You're welcome alexandra. The program I used is Home Designer.

Actually your aisles are less than 42" (3'6"). Your aisles appear to be measured cabinet-to-cabinet, which is incorrect. As I mentioned above, aisles are measured to/from the items that stick out into the aisle the farthest -- counter edges, appliance handles, walls, etc. So your aisles are at least 3" narrower than your labels indicate -- just accounting for the 1.5" counter overhang in front of all cabinets (and, in the case of the island, on the sides as well).

So, you're starting with 39" aisles. Now, factor in the refrigerator and range and they're even narrower.

If it's a counter-depth refrigerator (see below), then your aisle is now 33" b/w the island and refrigerator. (If it's a built-in, then no change -- the aisle is still 39" in front of the refrigerator.)

The range will stick out 3 or 4 inches from the cabinets and 1.5" to 2" or so in front of the counters. So the aisle in front of the range is around 37".

Refrigerator...You say the refrigerator is a "counter-depth", that means it's closer to 30" deep, including doors & handles. However, perhaps you meant "built-in". If it's a true built-in, then it's around 25" deep, including doors & handles (depth will depend on manufacturer).

Since you are redoing this Kitchen to appeal to a family, I don't think such narrow aisles will be appealing.

Let's see what we can come up with for you!

Sena has already come up with one idea that appears workable. The aisles widths are not as important since the island is on wheels -- unless it's too heavy to move easily, then the aisle widths do become important. I'd consider a butcher block top instead of stone or laminate. Stone would probably make it too heavy and butcher block appears higher-end than laminate.

Will an island on casters be stable if someone leans on the overhang?

Is the stairwell to the basement entirely open to the main floor? Since you're saying it's the "stairway to the basement", I'm assuming there is no upper/second floor.

If it is open, would you be willing to close up part of it -- maybe 5' from the far left wall? The remaining 4' could remain open.

buehl there is only the main floor and basement, no upper level. The stairway wall is going to a half wall the whole way across (originally wanted a glass railing but now realize that makes that entire wall useless). What are you thinking for closing up the 5' from the far left wall?

I was thinking of a 5'W x 12"D pantry and then the next 4' could be either a 4'W x 12"D x 36"H (counter height) drop zone from the entry or a shallow buffet...I'd vote for the drop zone to keep clutter off the island. It could be a shallow "Message/Command Center". A place for keys, mail, charging cell phones, etc.

buehl that's a great idea! I also like the idea of building a banquet there as well. Since I'm not going to be living there, I will probably leave it open to buyers to decide how they want to arrange the dining room.

I've updated the floor plan and overhead kitchen view with the island turned the other way. If I leave 39" between the stairwall cabinets and the island (3" to account for any overhang, leaving actual 36" of walking space), then I can fit a 4 ft island that's 3'3" deep (15" overhang). It also leaves 48" between cabinet to island by the fridge, or about 42" from fridge handles to counter.

I agree with palimpsest question about island on wheels being unstable if there is seating at it. I also think I'd prefer a fixed island. Does anyone think this size island is too small to be fixed?

Microwave - could I still put it in the island or is the island now too small? Could I hide the microwave in the appliance garage?

Glad you like it! And the banquette, or at least partial b/c that's what I did in the two layouts below!

It's a lot to digest, so take your time!

Detailed Analysis...

I included a permanent island with seating for two. It's not wide enough for a prep sink and still have decent workspace but it can function as a secondary Prep Zone -- the sink really isn't that far away. I don't think anyone will expect two sinks in this size a Kitchen b/c of the lost workspace that would result.

The layouts aren't that much different. Layout #1 is what I had been thinking of since yesterday and Layout #2 is based off what Sena did. I think she had some good ideas.

Both layouts...

• There are two Prep Zones. Both have ample workspace.
  -- The primary Prep Zone is b/w the sink and range. You have at least 42" of workspace along the right wall plus another 13 to 15 inches on the sink wall b/w the sink and corner.
  -- The secondary Prep Zone is in the island and contains the MW Drawer.

• The MW Drawer is located on the end of the island to keep it on the perimeter so that someone can be using it without getting in the way of someone else prepping and/or cooking. (Yes, it fits!)

• Ditto the refrigerator on the perimeter.

• Technically, the primary Prep Zone violates the "Ice.Water.Stone.Fire" mantra we've been using, but in your case the "Water" and "Stone" and "Fire" are pretty much one in the same, so there's no picking up your food to backtrack across an aisle to get to the Cooking Zone. You'll go from the refrigerator to the sink/counter and the range. They're all right there so it should not be an issue. (Now, if the Prep Zone was on the other side of the sink, that would be a different story.)

• The Cooking Zone is located next to the primary Prep Zone and across from the secondary Prep Zone so it can be accessed from either location easily.

• The island is 60"W x 42"D. It seats 2 with the minimum recommended 15-inch overhang. I wouldn't try for more since your overall space is not very big. It houses the MW in both layouts. It also has a 15"x9" cabinet on the outside.
  -- If you face it toward the Kitchen, it's 15"W x 9"D and can hold cookbooks or other small items.
  -- If you face it toward the Dining Room, it's 9"W x 15"D and could hold trays or cutting boards.
  -- The remaining cabinets vary by Layout.

• Aisles...The aisle b/w the island and stairway wall is 36". There is no work zone or appliance there, so 36" is sufficient.
  -- The same for the aisle b/w the island and the bottom wall. It's actually just shy of 36", but it's pretty close. I think it will be fine, especially since that wall does not extend the full length of the island -- there's only a partial overlap.
  -- The aisle b/w the island and the range counters is 46" wide (counter-to-counter). If the refrigerator is counter-depth, then the aisle b/w the island and the refrigerator is around 40" deep -- the actual depth of counter-depth refrigerators varies by manufacturer with around 30" the average (some are 29" some 31"). These should be fine since the primary work zones are spread out and are not on the aisle b/w the island and range wall.
  -- The floor & work space of the primary Prep Zone, Cleanup Zone, and much of the Cooking Zone (including the range) are in the much larger open section of the Kitchen. There should be plenty of floor space in that area -- especially in Layout #1. Layout #1 has over 82" b/w the left wall and range counters and Layout #2 has approx 66" b/w dish hutch and range counters.
  -- Finally, the aisle b/w the table and the island is 60" -- plenty of space for everyday traffic as well as when there are people sitting at both the table and the island.

• Dining Room...The DR contains the 60"W x 12"D tall pantry cabinets and a 48-inch wide Message/Command Center (with 45" of base cabinets) to the left of the stairs. As I mentioned above, the Message/Command Center is the drop zone for keys, mail, cell phones, etc. The cabinets below can hold things for the Dining Room and/or miscellaneous other items.
  -- This location works well since the entry is basically in the DR.
  -- The entry is close to the pantry for putting groceries away in the Pantry. (And the table can be used to put grocery bags on while unloading the bags.)
  -- It is a bit of a walk from the Kitchen to the pantry, but I think it might be an acceptable compromise in a home this size. Most homes this size have no real pantry, so I think this will actually be a good selling point! Ditto for the Message Center!

• For the Message Center, it's the first flat surface you encounter when entering the home -- and that's where people will most likely be dropping mail, etc. While the cabinets are 12"D, the counter is 13.5"D. It should be deep enough for whatever is placed there (mail sorter, etc.).

• The table is a 72"W x 42"D table that should seat 6 comfortably. In a pinch, it could be expanded for 8 people, but it will crowd the island. That would be more for special occasions when a tight aisle is usually tolerable b/c it's for a short time, not long-term.
  -- Note that one end seat is a bench seat. This allows for a wider aisle b/w the island and table. If the 6th seat is not needed, simply remove the bench and push the table against the wall or just push the table all the way over the bench.
  -- The aisle b/w the pantry and table is not generous, it's actually a bit tight at 36". However, since this is not a thoroughfare to other parts of the home (in fact, it's a "dead end"), I think 36" will be sufficient.
  -- If needed, the table can be moved "down" toward the Living Room.

Layout #1...

• The island contains a 24"W cabinet facing the DW for dish storage and silverware.

• Other dish storage is in the upper cabinet above the DW. I would consider making it 15" deep instead of 12"D to fit more glasses and dishes.

• I'd probably put:
  -- The glasses & mugs in the upper cabinet
  -- The place settings and serving dishes in the island cabinet. This provides easy access from the Dining Room when setting the table.

• The other 9" in the island (facing the refrigerator) can be for cutting boards or trays.

• The 17" cabinet - drawers - can probably be 18" wide and could be a trash pullout (or additional dish storage) if you get an extended stile on the left to provide a bit of space b/w the drawers and the wall.

Layout #2...

• This layout uses the tall dish hutch idea from Sena's layout. The main difference is that I made it only 15" deep to accommodate the 3" of filler you will most likely need as well as give you a bit more counterspace to the left of the sink. That counterspace is going to be where your dirty dishes are, so the more you have, the less likely dirty dishes will spill over into the Prep Zone.

• The island contains a 33" wide cabinet facing the refrigerator for wider drawers

• Dish storage is in the tall hutch

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Here are the layouts:

Layout #1:

ETA: See later post -- wall b/w stairs and Kitchen not correct. Later post corrects the mistake.

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Layout #1 Zone Map:

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Layout #2:

ETA: See later post -- wall b/w stairs and Kitchen not correct. Later post corrects the mistake.

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Layout #2 Zone Map:

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I really like Buehl' layout #1 because the heat and moisture from my dishwasher damaged the cabinets in a configuration like #2 and I had six inches between the dishwasher and cabs in a peninsula.

If you are remodeling the house to sell, I would do the shallow cabs in the dining area but might forego the built-in seating ; it looks like a small, round table might work too.

I think layout 1 works beautifully.

I think buehl got it perfect with option 1. It feels open, but makes great use of every inch of space.

buehl thank you so much for the detailed response and layouts!!! I love both options - at first I was leaning towards the shallow dish hutch in layout 2 since I love the look of floor to ceiling cabinets with some glass in them, but I think the L shape in layout 1 works most smoothly AND would probably be less expensive. I think there will still be enough storage between kitchen and dining room without doing the dish hutch. The garbage pullout/ dishwasher/ sink all in one line and not
overlapping will be very convenient and I end up with more counter space
along that wall too.

I may still center the sink under the window as I'm OCD about these
kinds of things (I know it's not necessary but for my peace of mind I
may need to center it lol!) and just have a small 6" pullout drawer to the right of the sink cabinet and lose the space in the corner. I know I lose the counter space to the right of the sink too though... so I'll have to think on that.

As for the island, that looks way better than I had it originally. I'll tape it out in the house to make sure it looks OK extending about 6" into the hallway space coming from the bedroom. I'm sure it will be fine, and I love being able to fit a 60" long island that properly fits in the kitchen. I may rearrange the island a bit to have all drawers facing the fridge/range wall, as I love the look of paneled sides extending out the full 42" to support the overhang. (picture below of an island I love - I know it's longer than the one I'll have).

Now I just need to figure out how I will dress up that bare stairway wall in layout 1. I'm thinking maybe just staging with a clock, or 3 photos, or a framed chalkboard or something. But those are minor details!

"...I may still center the sink under the window as I'm OCD about these kinds of things..."

If you have use an undermount sink, you won't notice if the sink is centered (or not). What some people have done is centered the faucet on the window b/c that's what is visible. If you get an offset drain, which I recommend, then centering the faucet may naturally happen when you place the faucet behind the drain.

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"... I love the look of paneled sides extending out the full 42" to support the overhang..."

I think that if you eliminate the 15" x 9" cabinet, you should be able to fit narrow sides and then center the two seats on the island.

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"...I'll tape it out..."

I recommend using a table or boxes to actually "build" the island so you get a "feel" for it in the space. Tape doesn't give the feel that an object actually gives you.

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Table...

Rantontoo: I originally had a 48" round table in the layout but when I re-read that the target buyers are families with 1 to 3 children, I realized that a 4-seat table might make it look like no other size would fit. So, I put in a table that can work for up to 6 people. If it's a table for 4 with a couple of leafs (leaves?), then it could be made smaller if the full size isn't needed or when showing the home so the room will look more spacious.

So, I did a layout with a centered sink.

HOWEVER, while I was working with it, I noticed 2 mistakes in all the previous layouts.

• First, somehow the 5'9" wall was reduced to 5'0". So, that means the wall sticks out another 9" into the Kitchen and Dining Room.
• Second, I used the partial measurements instead of the full measurement to determine the length of the Kitchen and there was a difference of a bit more than 3" -- 3" in my favor.
• So, the net is that b/w the two, there is only a little more than a 5-inch difference. While it does not affect the perimeter layout, it does affect the island. So, I reduced the island by 6" -- it's now 54" wide instead of 60".
• A positive result is that now the aisle b/w the bottom wall and the island is a solid 36" wide instead of b/w 35" & 36"

54" is still wide enough for the island "legs" and 2 seats.

1.5" overhang + 1.5" leg + 24" seat + 24" seat + 1.5" leg + 1.5" overhang = 54"

[Note: In your inspiration picture the island does not appear to have a 1.5" overhang on the sides -- maybe 1/2". If that's the case, then you would have 0.5" overhangs on the sides and 2.5" wide legs. Keep in mind that the Kitchen in your inspiration picture appears quite a bit larger than yours, so you may not be able to replicate it exactly, but you can get the general look.]

So, here are two layouts -- the corrected Layout #1 and Layout #3 (centered sink). Personally, I'd go with Layout #1, an undermount sink, and the faucet centered on the window. But it's up to you -- it is your Kitchen after all! :-)

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Layout #1 -- Corrected!

Since you want all cabinets facing the refrigerator, I eliminated the 24" that was facing the DW and put in a 27" cabinet facing the refrigerator. However, I want to caution you against putting place settings & silverware on the range wall...that's where the Prep Zone is and you don't want people getting in the way of meal prep to get a dish or piece of silverware or when unloading the DW. It's best if the dishes stay in the island. You'll have to walk a step or two farther, but in the long run, it will be better.

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Layout #3 -- centered sink:

Note that instead of totally eliminating corner storage, I made the following changes:

• The 36" x 36" corner susan is now a 33" x 36" corner susan. I know that some cabinetmakers offer them, but I don't know if all do. I would definitely look into it.

• The sink base is now 27" wide. The reduction made it possible to have a 33" x 36" corner susan

• The cabinet to the left of the DW is now 24" wide (with an extended stile). This cabinet can now hold dishes & silverware.

• Note that the sink crowds the range wall a bit more b/c the sink had to be moved over to the right.

Honestly Buehl, I think your layouts work just as well without the island. It seems like a lot of gymnastics to fit one into a constricted area in a small house (?) You've come up with several good variations that don't seem to really need it?

Palimpset...I agree, the island definitely is not needed. And, in fact, the lack of the island would eliminate the need for the table to be part-banquette, would give the Dining/Kitchen a more open/spacious feel, and wild eliminate the possible bottleneck to the bedrooms that Alexandra was a little concerned about. However, I was trying to find a way to give Alexandra the island she seems to really want without too much impact on functionality.

With two possible exceptions...

(1) MW location. The island is a nice location for the MW drawer. If there is no island, I would probably put the MW on the counter to the far left of the sink. I would not put it on the range wall counters b/c it would be in the way -- even in the corner. I would also not reduce the storage size of the upper cabinet to the left of the sink by hanging the MW from the upper cabinet b/c all of it will be needed for dishes & glasses.

(2) Which brings up the second possible exception...dish storage in Layout #1. To keep traffic out of the Prep Zone, it might be better with the island for dish storage.

Another option is to make the island shorter:

Option 1...Reduce it to 51" and split the 3" b/w the top & bottom aisle in whichever way it helps the most. However, that would affect either the # of seats that fit or the island design. Either the island design would have to change to still accommodate 2 people (no island "legs") or only one seat will be comfortably possible (with island "legs").

51" Island: 1.5" overhang + 24" cabinet facing DW + 24" MW drawer

I wonder if the "legs" on the island will look too massive for the small size of the island anyway...? And maybe even for the overall space....?

In both of Alexandra's inspiration pictures, both the islands and the Kitchens are quite a bit larger than hers.

Option 2...Reduce the island by 9" to 45" wide.

Make the 24" x 24" cabinet facing the DW only 15" deep and instead of drawers it could be all shelves. The reduced depth would make it much easier to access shelves. The island would only accommodate one seat, though. Maybe 2 in a pinch, especially if it's used by children (it's only 3" narrower than the minimum needed for 2 seats - 48"). No island "legs".

Again, split the 9" as needed b/w the bottom and top aisles.

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The following two layouts show what #1 and #3 could be without the island:

Layout #1 with no island:

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Layout #3 with no island:

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Alexandria, the best kitchen i ever worked in had no island. Sometimes an island is more of a hinderance and in this case I believe it is.

I think sometimes things become sort of an idee fixe, and you want it desperately to work, but it works just as well without it.

An island is not the holy grail that solves the life, the universe, and everything. That answer is 42. Not a hunk of wood and stone in the way of moving around the space. You kitchen is better without an island.

42!

Deep thoughts...! :-)