Ridiculous heat in the Pacific NW
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6 years ago
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6 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
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Gardenia for Pacific NW?
Comments (19)I've read through numerous comments & reviews from different sites, and this is what I've found: Chuck Hayes is supposed to be particularly suited for the PNW. This may be because it tolerates the hot dry summers better, or it may be it is able to grow a bit better in the cooler earlier part of the growing season, perhaps because it's one of the few hardy varieties that's not dwarfed in growing habit. One person in Alabama commented their Frostproof gardenias did not survive in their zone 7/6b climate. (Perhaps she should have covered them with a bag and mulch to protect them) I read that hardy gardenias can make it through the Winter in Southern New Jersey, zone 7, if planted in a somewhat protected site close to a wall and out of the wind. Frostproof, Daisy, variegata, and Chuck Hayes have all survived there. Someone in East Tennessee, zone 6b/7a, said that their Frost Proof had been hit hard by two Winters in a row, wasn't doing well, and from the looks of it he expected it would not survive the next Winter. He claimed it was growing right next to a Mystery which was 8 feet tall, and he also said Daisy and Chuck Hayes did well for him. This could be a fluke because obviously Mystery is not [supposed to be] as hardy as Frost Proof. There are several potential explanations, like maybe it was mislabeled, or maybe what was killing it was the Summer not the Winter. [https://www.houzz.com/discussions/newer-gardenias-for-zone-6-dsvw-vd~1914658[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/newer-gardenias-for-zone-6-dsvw-vd~1914658) (post #4) These reports are from the South and I haven't read any reports of gardenias surviving in anything less than zone 8 in the cooler PNW. Some comments said that the wet rainy cold Winters can cause the roots to rot, so they should be planted in a very well drained location. Perhaps covered with a plastic sheet over the Winter to prevent the soil getting too wet. Someone else commented that they planted a Kleim's Hardy in Tacoma up against a house which was growing fine outside for 5 years. Someone else in Oregon, zone 8, said they had three Kleim's Hardy gardenias that had survived a Winter outside in pots, and then after being planted in the ground they did great and put out many flowers. Mark Clipsham commented on Permies.com: "I visited Seattle about two years ago and was surprised to see gardenias that had been hacked back because they had gotten overgrown among other things." Not sure how much truth there could be to that, it does sound a little bit exaggerated, or could be possible he misidentified the plant. Someone left this comment: " Some of the Gardenias that we use in the Pacific Northwest are the following Kleim’s Hardy, Frost Proof, and Chuck Hayes. ... I have a number of clients growing gardenias successfully in the Seattle area " https://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1429001/#b Someone else commented he read a post from a member in this forum who has gardenia Veitchii growing in the ground in Bremerton. https://forums.botanicalgarden.ubc.ca/threads/pittosporum-tobira.38558/ (post #6) (Veitchii is not a hardy variety, and if the variety was actually Veitchii it was probably surviving due to luck) A comment by someone else in Olympia, WA: "Really bad winters only happen about every 5-7 years. I try not to grow anything more than a zone warmer than my location (8a) and I protect plants to made sure they don’t have foliage damage. I don’t get depressed when a plant dies, I look at it as a new opportunity to try a new plant or better variety. I did some experimenting with foliage hardiness this time around. For example its taken me years of trail to finally fine the best gardenia for the PNW and (for the right one to come along). That gardenia is called ‘frost proof’. With just a cardboard box over it I was able to save two flower buds left over from summer." post by Palm Crazy, Dec 11, 2013, http://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?/topic/39495-winter-weather/&page=2...See MoreAnyone growing Plumeria in the NW?
Comments (6)I'd be surprised if you can get them to do well as a houseplant in Washington state, or as in indoor in winter and outdoors in summer container plant. They really want and need 80F plus temperatures to grow well, along with bright sun, and if you can't give them sufficient heat and light in the warm months, they just tend to struggle along. Your best bet may be growing them in a south facing enclosed sunporch, if it has great light and warms up into the low 80'sF during the day. Speaking from experience, they are marginal even here in the San Francisco Bay Area in areas closest to the ocean/bay, yet can do surprisingly well in more inland valleys or places like Sacramento, Fresno, Bakersfield, etc if summered outdoors as a container plant, and forced into dormancy in a protected spot indoors in winter. They barely bloom at all by the very end of summer here in Berkeley/Oakland outdoors, but I have seen thriving plants in a San Francisco enclosed west facing glassed in sunporch, which did bloom regularly. They are very prone to getting scale and/or mealybugs if they are suffering from lack of proper heat, so be aware that you may have to constantly battle these. I wouldn't think they would do all that well west of the Cascades, maybe better in the inland, hotter summer areas. They will definitely tend to rot out even here in the SF Bay Area if left outside and rained upon in winter. If you can give them the sustained heat in the warmer months that they prefer,(and this includes at night), they are perfectly fine even with dull sunless winters, when they can be allowed to go dormant and leafless, and just barely watered once a month....See MoreLush Tropical Pacific NW Garden/Yard
Comments (41)Amongst the best palms for the PNW would be the Windmill Palm, Trachycarpus fortunei, which is the palm in the pool photo. Other species of this genus to look for would include the more refined leaf form of T. wagneriana or T. takil. A smaller growing fan palm that is also perfectly hardy is the Mediterranean Fan Palm, Chamaerops humilis. There is also a lovely silver leafed version, C. humilis var cerifera. You might also be interested to try growing one of the hardier feather palms, such as Butia capitata, the Pindo Palm. Other subtropical plants that are often used in PNW gardens for a tropical effect would include the various Phormium hybrids, Cordyline australis hybrids and cultivars, and Beschorneria yuccoides. The silvery foliage of Astelias, which much resemble Phormiums in habit, are also quite hardy for Seattle, and would include the larger growing Astelia chathamica 'Silver Spear', and others such as A. nervosa 'Red Gem' or similar. Fatsia japonica is always a reliable tropical looking foliage plant. Usually not quite hardy as year round perennials in all but the mildest PNW locations, but great as temperennials, the Abutilons of all colors are great filler plants. Bergenia was already mentioned, but this is a great foliage plant that also blooms in late winter, and is fully hardy, coming from Russia. Winter deciduous subtropicals such as the various Hedychiums are also great, such as H. gardnerianum, H. flavescens, H. greenei. Cautleya spicata is also quite nice, and is quite colorful with summer blooms of red and yellow, and will even bloom in a fair amount of shade. My favorite Canna varieties for tropical flair would have to include the very tall growing C. ehemannii, which can get 10 feet tall, and has smaller rose red pendant flowers that cleanly drop off when done blooming. If you want dramatic foliage that is the equal of a Gunnera, you might also consider planting the Rice Paper Plant, Tetrapanax papyriferus, but this will probably be killed back to the roots in winter in most PNW locations. Melianthus major is another great foliage plant, but will often be killed back to the roots outside USDA zone 9a conditions. As to Acanthus, you should also look for the attractive A. spinosus, which has distinctive looking leaves. Acanthus does perfectly well in full sun in more coastal locations that don't get the baking summer heat of interior Oregon, but in its native Mediterranean habitats it will also quite willingly grow in full sun locations as well. In dry summer locations, it will go summer deciduous, and come back into growth with fall rains. In irrigated gardens, the yellowing, heat damaged foliage can simply be pruned off, and it will often push new foliage immediately if watered and fertilized, or can be allowed to wait until it cools off and starts raining again....See MoreButcher Block Countertop quote seems ridiculous--are we insane?
Comments (27)In response to paul_ma, I dont need your benefit of the doubt, but thanks for offering. Im here answering/asking questions just like anyone else. I answer questions in many forums in the realm of my profession unlike you I see. Skilled woodworker are you? How long have you been building butcher blocks? Yes the volume is always the same, blah blah, but thats not what its about at all. Its about usable material. There is always more usable edge-grain than end-grain. Its the yield that matters (for you engineer types). The waist factor for end-grain tops is around 30-40% but im sure you knew that too. As for our website we simply do not list end-grain countertops because they simply are not a big seller. We list standard edge-grain tops. End-grain is not standard and is typically ordered by the rich and famous who have no real applicational use for it anyway. Although I personally prefer the look of end-grain over edge grain its just not practical or cost beneficial for use in the countertop application. Why would anyone want to chop heavily on a $3000-$4000 end-grain countertop. Oh wait your only gonna cut on it.lol, then buy a chopping block or a cutting board and save a couple grand. If your simply buying an end-grain countertop for looks than good for you but dont complain about the price when you do. Either way at some point whether its end-grain or edge-grain it does not matter as both tops will need to be serviced after time. Why the comparison between granite and butcher block anyway? Does anyone sit here and mill around about the price of plastic laminate vs. granite or anything else for that matter. It is what is. When it comes to countertops just buy what you like. Nobody ever concerns themselves with cutting directly on granite tops or Laminate tops as we all know you just dont do it. With hardwood countertops its a plus. Does it scratch? Yes. They all do, but its the fact that it is safe to cut on and easily repairable that makes the difference....See MoreEmbothrium
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6 years agoEmbothrium
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6 years agoEmbothrium
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoSara Malone (Zone 9b)
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6 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
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6 years agoSara Malone (Zone 9b)
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)