Oh My goodness...She is so clueless and doesn't know how to do her job and (imho) should be fired! If you mail a Bubble Envelope, regardless of the size or the thickness, it will be charged at the Parcel Rate of $1.22 and up. She said they don't use the device at the counter for measuring a Bubble envelope for thickness, it automatically gets charged the parcel rate. If the Bubble envelope of any size, even empty goes through their machines, it comes out ruined, so they have to put all the bubble envelopes through a different system. She is so wrong! She has been wrong ever since Shape Based pricing went into effect in May 2007...so those employees have ALL been OVERCHARGING now for going on to 4 YEARS! When will this madness end? In order to attempt to get her properly trained (isn't it sad the customers are trying to train USPS supervisors?) I suggest you print out this bulletin...First-Class Mail Fact Sheet At the bottom of it under First-Class Mail Quick Tips, it says"For padded bags (e.g., ReadyPost "cushion mailer"), when the thickness is 3/4" or less and the item is flat-size and somewhat flexible, the item should be classified and priced as a large envelope." Why is that so hard for postal employees to understand? I think even a caveman could understand that! She said that if you put the seeds in a long white envelope, with a small amount of padding in it, and if it is under an ounce, you can put a $.44 cent stamp on it and ask for the 'non machinable' rate. They would charge you another $.20 for that and so the total cost of your envelope would be $.64. hmmm...and we ALL know how well seeds do in regular envelopes with bubble wrap in them. The envelopes end up torn up and the seeds destroyed, if the envelope and seeds even make it to their destination and aren't totally destroyed. What about those who live in the rural and don't have the convenience of getting into the PO very often? What about those that get dropped into the blue mailboxes? Does she think that every envelope is read and sorted by hand so marking something Hand Stamp will be seen? Give me a break. I asked about the little gadget to measure the thickness of the envelope and she said they don't give them out, but they keep one at the counter, but they don't use it to measure bubble envelopes. It seems strange that some of were able to get them from our post offices without any problems. Would you mind posting her name and telephone number here along with her address? I will personally contact her superior from the list at the link below that lists all Vice Presidents and District Managers. It shows the zip code areas that are covered by each one. Imho, she needs to be reported littleonefb, Fran I really don't think anyone associated with the PO is reading this or is attempting to get anything done. I sure wish I could get NBC, CBS, or one of the major networks to pick up on this stealing that has been going on for almost 4 years. A lot of folks should be fired for not knowing how to do their job correctly. In the private sector, a lot of these employees would have been fired long ago. Here is a link that might be useful: USPS Management-it is an 11 page pdf file that will need to load

Hi Lovemysheltie: Thank you for that very pretty picture of pink climbing C. Soupert, is that low-in-thorn? That's a great idea to put climbing rose on the side of a swing! The tulips I planted 12 years ago are gone, but the daffodils multiplied many times. The best plant-payback in terms of beneficial insects here is dill. My Mom gave me dill seeds ten years ago. I sprinkled them near trees' roots - they sprout and host beneficial creatures like ladybugs, toad, and praying mantis. Dill is not invasive since I can kill them in 10 minutes - versus digging up heavy clumps of invasive garlic chives (tested effective against aphids and spider mites).

Hello, Dan the Mailman! I'm glad you're over here too! My big tips to add to the above: 1: Tell everyone saving MILK jugs for you to throw that cap away--even rinsed containers get really stinky if closed up. 2: Throw away the screw-cap on every wintersowing container you use. We use words like top and cap and lid, and NONE of those are the screw-caps, because the screw-caps are in the garbage. 3: Since you're starting to collect containers now, you could actually summer-sow in a few, as a way to test different container methods. The experience of planting out is a deciding factor in which container method you'll like. You could get a packet of Cilantro, which needs to be resown all summer since it bolts so fast. With a milk jug, you could: * Cut it all the way around, make 2 inverted Vs in the top, and nestle the top into the soil in the bottom * Or you could cut most of the way around, but leave a little as a hinge, and tape the continaer shut. * Or you can cut a big inverted U on one side, and bend the plastic flap down to fill the jug with dirt and sow the seeds. To plant out, you can cut the flap off, or to reuse the jug, you have to bend the flap out of the way again (I didn't like this) * OR, you could cut 1 or more big windows out of the jug, and then put a vented clear bag over each jug to create the greenhouse. I think Vera does this? And, you can use 2-liter bottles, too. They're my favorite. Have a great time, and WELCOME!

Just about the only thing that makes that happen is a very good and recent sale in the "neighborhood" of a house comparable to the one being appraised. Sometimes you'll have a buyer come in with cash (as from an inheritance or divorce settlement) who doesn't bother to get an appraisal. That sale can set a new high---although it is usually used as a fourth comparable since that doesn't represent the "typical" buyer. Strictly defined, a "neighborhood" is the either in the same subdivision or within one mile of the subject. Ideally the sale should have occurred within the previous six months. However, in rapidly changing market conditions some lenders ask for comps within three months. There are all kinds of exceptions to this guidline; for example, when you are in a subdivision that covers several miles and the only comps are within the s/d but beyond a mile. And a comp in the same s/d is better even if it is a mile or two away than a house just outside the s/d boundaries that is only a half-mile away. Things like s/d amenities that would attach to the subject but not the comp "outside the gates" so to speak, even if those gates are only metaphorical. When you have semi-rural properties or areas with no subdivisions it is permissible to go further away and farther back in time for comparable sales. It's very possible that someone bought a house a few miles from you that was in some way very like your house---and bought it within a few months of your own purchase. It's all about group behavior and not individual actions... you look at trends in sales and what other people have bought recently in the same area, try to find sales that match your subject best. When you have no subdivision, or you're in a rural area or dealing with unique properties, often the most difficult task is to identify the most important feature of a home---the number of bedrooms? the tennis court? the five-car garage? the finished basement media room? That's why Realtors are such wonderful resources for appraisers---if they will use their knowledge. They know what is selling houses in their area. Sometimes it is a school district---I've seen people pay $300K for a two-two in a highly desirable elementary school district. That's what makes the business interesting, there is something different with every assignment.