Vanilla Strawberry as it Looks Today
guyground
6 years ago
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NHBabs z4b-5a NH
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoguyground
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vanilla strawberry hydrangea questions
Comments (1)Webbing and distorted leaf growth (especially new leaves) are a sign of a spider mite infestation. They suck the content of the cells, making the leaves turn yellow and then brown. To check for mites, place a 8.5x11" piece of paper under the affected area and shake the shrub. Any mites that fall down onto the paper will appear as tiny moving specks. Mites usually become a problem as temperatures warm up (I have seen indications of them already in my garden). To control an infestation, you can release ladybugs or lacewing larvae or parasitic wasps; or you can apply insecticidal soaps/oils (Sunspray Ultrafine Spray Oil, Safer Insecticidal Soap, etc); or you can apply miticides (like Spectracide Permethrin Insect Control, Bonide Kelthane, Schultz Houseplants and Gardens Insect Spray, etc) per label directions. If you decide to use mitices, try using two miticides with different active ingredients (apply miticide "A" first, then "B", "A", "B", etc per each one's label directions). This helps prevent mites from becoming resistant to any one miticide. Does that help you? Luis...See MoreBought a 5 gallon Vanilla Strawberry today!!!
Comments (18)Not a good summer here either Ditas for first year plants in my area either. Summer is very tough on a paniculata it's first year. True test will be next year. My VS was very floppy after it was in full bloom. My sister had more browning out of blooms problem than me this year. I read a five year study on many paniculata including the VS. They stated when it was young or hard pruned it was floppy. They stated for best results only to lightly prune to shape. Although you will not receive as large as blooms. The picture I put on the thread earlier with the Bailey Nursery people. I think they are holding up the blooms with their hands and letting them lean on them...LOL... Notice you can not see their hands in the picture. I agree no new strong cane development for mine yet either. I refuse to bundle or support anything. If it can't be done by pruning than I better be able to be happy with the look or it is out of here! LOL.. Although I can tolerate a fair amount of flopping. The biggest plus for the VS in my opinion is that it keeps reblooming all through the late summer/fall. Mine has started it's second flush of flowers. I bet none of us will have the browning out problem early in the season next year. My worry is the flopping issue again. I think it will become a winner with maturity! Just needs a few years and wasn't quite up to the advertisement. They failed to mention the flopping issue. I bet in years to come many other paniculatas will be developed from the VS. The Tickled Pink is a winner in my book also. If I had the room I would of got one. But other than being compact it did not have any new qualities over the Pink Diamond, Pinky Winky or Quick Fire that I already have. We will see the Tickled Pink used alot in people's landscape in years to come because of it's immediate results and compact size. P.S. I love the color of the canes/stems on the VS....See MoreStrawberry Vanilla Hydrangea - leaves turning yellow
Comments (2)This is a bad time for planting hydrangeas as the environment is quite hot and there is little humidity. As a result of heat stress and transplant shock, some leaves may yellow out. Usually old leaves react this way. Leaves in too much sun can also turn yellow but in this case, only leaves in direct contact with the sun would be turning ALL yellow and the other leaves would remain dark green. Doubt this is you though since paniculatas like VS can handle full sun and your sun is not as intense as it is here; but keep an eye on that so you know what to do (temporarily give them shade somehow). Leaves that turn yellowish (but the leaf veins remain dark green) can also have a condition called iron chlorosis. Leaves can also display a wilted look when the plant looses moisture thru the leaves faster than the roots can absorb it. Very common in the summer with new shrubs. Wilting episodes should be checked to make sure the soil is not dry or almost dry. But most of the time, they will recover on their own by the next morning. These episodes will occur on the first few summers. Once the plant becomes established in your garden, it will develop a root system capable of overcoming a large number of these wilting episodes but, eh, one gets them when temps are plain ole hot. I am in the 100s now so I see these problems happenning now. You can help the shrubs by maintaining the area well mulched (3-4" of mulch up to the drip line or further) and by monitoring the soil moisture several times a week until low Fall temperatures arrive. The finger method can help you determine when to water so you do not overdo it by watering twice every day: give them 1 gallon of water per plant when a finger inserted into the soil to a depth of 4" feels dry or almost dry. Test the area near the base trunk, ie, where the roots are & cover the little hole again when done. When watering, it is best to water outwards starting from the area where the rootball is. Water only the soil and do it early in the morning. At this very moment, the roots are located in the area where your potting mix resides and roots have not ventured yet "outside", into the garden soil. Do moisten that edge between the potting mix and the garden soil but it is critical not to forget about the root ball. If it dries out, it will repel water and be hard to get it to absorb water again. Check mulch levels twice a year or whatever works for you as mulch will help you reduce waterings and conserve moisture, as well as protect the roots from the heat. There is no need to add fertilizers this year as most newly purchased plants will have those round fertilizer pellets in the potting mix. Besides, we are late in the growing season. You want to fertilize from Spring thru July only so the plant will go dormant in the Fall and not stay in growth mode thru Fall or winter. Next Spring, you can add a 1/2 cup to 1 cup of organic mulch or cottonseed meal. Hydrangeas are not big eaters like roses, so this will suffice for the year. If you want to, add "weak" fertilizers like coffee grounds, liquid seaweed or liquid fish but stop all fertilizers by July. Liquid iron is an amendment added to prevent iron chlorosis. This is a temporary condition where the shrub cannot absorb iron from the soil and is common in alkaline soils. If your soil is acidic, you do not need it. If your soil is alkaline, your hydrangea will benefit from regular doses of amendments that will add this iron (amendments like liquid iron products) or other granular products like aluminum sulfate, ammoniun sulfate, iron sulfate, green sand, garden Sulphur, etc. I amend once in Spring and again in late Summer or early Fall if the leaves display a light green to yellow color (but the leaf veins remain dark green). A neighbor or a nearby plant nursery can give you an idea of how alkaline or acidic soils are in your area. If you want to be proactive, you can also buy soil testing kits for soil pH, although they may be hard to find in some places at the end of the growing season. Enjoy your VSs! Luis This post was edited by luis_pr on Thu, Jul 24, 14 at 5:13...See MoreBerry White VS Vanilla Strawberry VS Strawberry Sundae
Comments (6)I have a Strawberry Sundae that was beautiful all summer. My wife clipped and dried a lot of flowers just before the frost destroyed them. They started white and slowly faded pink. I trim mine slightly to keep the branches in the right direction, no trifucations or crossing. I'm going for that vintage paniculata look: not a tree, not a shrub, but in the middle with multiple trunks. Consequently, I have a few cuttings that will hopefully take (and from my Bobo). Very nice variety for a smaller space....See Morebiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
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6 years agoNHBabs z4b-5a NH
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6 years agoMarie Tulin
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