Same issue with a couple of my toms. Cannot figure out what it is. Any ideas?

I acquired these plants about 6 weeks ago; they were healthy when I got them. I hardened them off over the course of a week or so by taking them outside a little longer each day, first into a sheltered location and gradually into full sun. I planted them during the first week of april into the whiskey barrel. They were in the whiskey barrel (in orig. poor potting soil) for three weeks. The soil was so poor that after I watered it initially, it remained saturated for 3 wks! (This is what prompted me to do the second transplanting into better soil.) During this time they were in a location that received midday and afternoon sun (our temps have been moderate this spring). A few breezy days, but they seemed to handle it fine. They were a rich green color and looked healthy. However, they grew very little during this time. The black cherry grew the most, putting out one full set of new leaves (in 3 wks). A few days ago, I transplanted the three into the new soil. The blk cherry drooped immediately. The others looked ok until today. During the last few days, I've sheltered them somewhat from sun and wind. The temps have been normal (upper 70s/upper50s). Last night a thunderstorm passed through, nothing too severe. They looked pretty good when I went out this morning, so I moved them into the sun. But they went downhill as the day progressed. Could this just be trauma from the second transplanting? Could the black edges be something fungal? It's hard to know, with this new soil, if they're getting enough moisture or too much. It IS draining well, though. Thanks again! veg

I got this jade hahnii at Lowe's. It was half dead, but had 2 good rhizomes. (I got it 50% off because of the condition of it.) I took out the dead stuff, and it looked good for a bit (I've had it for a month). The leaves have started curling along the edges, curling toward the underside of the leaves. I just repotted 2 days ago using 50/50 cactus mix and perilite. I can never tell if I'm overwatering or underwatering, but I water 1x/week at most and none of my other sans are doing this. This is the only jade I have though. BTW, I labeled it jade, but it doesn't have same leaf shape or tight rosettes as other jades I've seen.

I'm having the same problem. I could be wrong as I'm unable to find any information about it and when I ask im usually blowen off with some non answer or that I'm doing it wrong. I think its too much green spectrum from full spectrum leds. White leds are full spectrum. I've got friends that use just the blue and red spectrum and they don't seem to be having the same problem. I know for sure the purple to black discoloration on the meaty part of the leaf is a sign of a hid light being to close. Some people who think they are in the know try to tell me it mag or potassium deficiencies but it seems obvious to me its the light damage over time. As it usually hits hardest on larger older leaves near the top not necessarily smaller younger growth at the very top and becoming worse over time. The damaged leaves also become brittle and sometimes rough towards the back of the leaf. Light has the property of knocking electrons off atoms where the affect of this decreases through the spectrums uv light does the most damage then blue, green down to red doing the least damage. Plants have two light receptors to make the sugars required for growth, blue and red. Green light is used for vegetative growth and also prevents stretching keeping the plant shot and bushy. Some plants need to stretch a little to maximize the budding sights so running green spectrum will lower yeald when flowering. Iv noted that running a bigger distance between light and plant or less wats decreased the damage. But light penatration through the plant decreased dramatically doing this. Not all leds have the same recommendation for the hight above the plants some high power leds need 24 inches or more as compared to some that have a recommendation of 12 inches. Also the rasing the hight of the light affects the red spectrum more than the others as the red spectrum will drop of faster over distance lowering yeald. I'm beginning to suspect manufacturers are pushing for white full spectrum leds as the red leds tend to burn out too fast and aren't as reliable busting their claim of 50k hours when the red leds are lucky to last 10k hours. So to get a readly available source of red spectrum they use white leds to supply the red spectrum but has the disadvantages of producing green spectrum and im beginning to think too much green which is burning the plant.