I'd put the corn on the west side of the garden so that it does not shade your other plants. As others have mentioned, when you are growing your spring lettuce the corn isn't there...so it can't shade it. It WOULD work to plant the lettuce in the spring and follow it with your corn in late May/early June. That way the corn is emerging as you are removing your last lettuce. If you like to start your corn indoors then its just a matter of having your seedlings ready to plug in as you remove the lettuce. Don't plant onions and beans together, they don't like being near each other. Don't plant dill with tomatoes, it will inhibit the tomato's growth. As suggested above, I'd set up your garden now to prepare for fall planting OR to allow you to layer in hay, leaves, manure, etc to compost in for the spring planting. I enjoy using the info from the "Square foot garden" method for planning out how many veggies per square foot of garden space. The books should be easily available at your local library. I'm not a strict SFG follower, but the overall info is a great starting point. I've found here in the south that more room is needed for the zucchini and tomato plants that the SFG method indicates. I also like leaving a 4" mulch line between the different veggie types rather than planting in every inch, but I don't have space limitations in my garden.

Lizzy, I ask because I am in downtown Atlanta. You can probably grow many sun loving plants in that situation too. If you get several hours of direct sun, many shade plants may burn depending on what time of the day you get the sun in that garden. Early AM sun is fine, but in July when it's 90 with 75% humidity and sunny in the PM the shady plants will fry. If you get PM or later than early day sun, you can grow things like knockout roses in the sunnier areas. Tradescantia (not the regular blue type, but some nice cultivars) would be great there. Blooms a little early (like a week ago and earlier) then cut it back and it blooms again when it gets cooler. Bearded iris will do OK, as will most others like siberians, japanese roof iris would do great - they don't need much sun. At the high end you might want a "trailer" I have a small green and white small leaf ivy, creeping raspberry is also nice in that type of area and turns reddish in the winter. Dianthus like sweet williams, newport pinks and many others will be pretty, campanula Elizabeth and campanula glomerata are the two campanulas that do fine here. Japanese anemone do great in the fall. How about calla lilies? Bulbs - like daffs, scilla, and all other types are great. There are just so many wonderful choices that I can not explain them all here! GGG

sorry I didn't mean to make you mad or be a jerk or rain on your parade.... I don't want anyone not to try. But please don't think it's going to be easy.Twelve years ago, I thought I wanted to have my own greenhouse business because I like to grow plants. I thought i wanted to be a market gardener so I'd have work all year long...well it's been a learning curve anyway! so if you like to learn a lot every year, it's a great job for you...and if you think you have it figured out, think again, something will happen for sure...and every time someone comes in the greenhouse or market and says "you have my dream job!" I just groan on the inside. One lady told me she wanted to do this when she retires in a couple of years because it would be easier than her job where she has to stand on her feet for 8 hours. I thought to myself "only 8 hours, where do you work?and "you get to retire? they're actually going to give you money when you do?" She has it made... I never work less than 12 hours all summer from February to November.Broiling in the sun and freezing in the rain because you have to get things picked for market. and the rest of the year I'm cleaning the greenhouses and beds and ordering supplies and going into debt for next year. or cleaning my house that didn't get cleaned all summer or fall or spring especially. And worrying that the wind will take down all your work, or grasshoppers, or thrips, or aphids.I've had the opportunity to learn about bugs and diseases I didn't even know existed when I was just home gardening. A lot of times when you don't see something at the market, it's because it doesn't sell enough to be worth the effort. That's been my experience.I've grown several things I didn't see at the market, it turns out it's because people don't really want it, at least enough to put their cash into action. Purple basil has always been a hard sell for me. I sell plants in the spring, well actually all year long. Purple basil is beautiful, tasty, and you have to beg people to buy it pretty much! heirloom tomatoes is another thing I've had a hard time with. Yes, they taste better and they are probably better in every way. But most customers around here would rather eat a pretty tomato with worse taste than a very tasty one that has a crack or doesn't look quite so appealing.And it's a lot harder to get them to market in good shape. to sell plants in most states, you need to have either a dealers license to resell or a growers license to grow and in our state if you want to grow and sell you need both. I have both. that's extra money and they come and inspect in the spring when you're just so busy you really don't need another hassle! LOL If you don't need to make money at this, then just have fun with it. but please, don't be the person at the market practically giving things away to get people to try it, or if you do have the same things as someone else, don't undercut them much just because you don't have to make a lot of money. value your time and effort. I am just also currently in a bad mood over people who want to do this part time because there are some people who are pretty much ruining our market by having lots and lots of stuff really cheap because they "planted too much" and "we have other jobs anyway". they are selling things so cheap that I wouldn't even haul them to market for that price. It's hard to make money marketing anyway, but especially when you're against that kind of thing!

I'm not a builder---but just had some work done at my house and had tree guys over to take out some undesireable trees. One thing they cautioned me about is not putting down excessive brick/stone too close to the roots of the trees. You'd have to make sure you are far enough out from the crown of the tree to not damage the tree growth (assuming you want to keep the trees and keep them healthy). My personal preference for appearance sake is natural stone or traditional brick rather than paver. Just an opinion, but I think the look of quarried stone or standard brick is more classic than paver, but others like pavers better and they do seem easier to work with. As for reclaimed brick, too bad we didn't live closer to each other! I had an old (1974) brick retaining wall replaced with cinder block faced with flagstone. I told the contractor I wanted them to leave "a few" loose bricks that were in good condition. I wanted these since the retaining wall matched my house---figured I could always use them for repair or something. Anyway, these guys left an excessive pile of bricks, cinder blocks and even crumbling mortor at the far back of my property---guess they took advantage of my comment that I wanted a few bricks and got away with not carting this stuff off my property and disposing of it. I've been going through the pile to sort it out and see what I can use around the yard. The flat cinder blocks actually made a nice base for my cord of firewood. Some of the bricks are just what I wanted---a match for my house. Then there is a whole bunch of bricks that have the rebar holes drilled in them. I'm not sure what to do with these! I went to Home Depot to buy a mortar chisel to clean the stuff up as I'm sorting---my wife thinks I'm nuts but it's actully pretty satisfying!