Thank you Dax. This was about my third year in trying to propagate this J. virginiana. The first year I tried strong rooting hormone on cuttings, that failed. Second year I tried grafting with a knife (not razor sharp, just sharp) and doing the bag method except I did not let them breath, those all failed (quick), Spider mite infestation on the root stalks, and the knife not being razor sharp was likely the main causes for a quick death. Third year (this year) The scions seemed green for a long time in the humidity chamber after grafting, but I think that was just because the humidity preserved the chlorophyll even though the scions where getting little to no water uptake from the root stalk (guessing). The only ones to eventually grow a tiny bit and did not turn brown for the longest time, were the ones I had half in a jar of water (approach grafts), and they actually grew, but after I took the "graft" out of the humidity and removed the jar the tender new growth quickly shrived up and the last couple of scions I had died. I don't know if this guess is true or not, But I've been guessing (and hoping) the the only reason they failed is because I got the scions off the parent tree as the tree was coming out of dormancy in February (pollen cones on the tree where large and swollen, and just about to burst open). A very warm winter did not help either (breaking dormancy even earlier than typical.) So perhaps the scions did not have time to heal before the water started to transpire out of the foliage of the scions and juices flowing in the scions, thus a very poor graft union that was very susceptible to even tiny stresses in the aftercare (in other words: little to no water and nutrient uptake for the scions). Does this sound likely or not, (I don't mind if you disagree with what I said above, I want to learn as much as possible, so you can tell how you think about it). This time I want to get the scions in the dead of winter (in January). Do you think bagging the grafts could be better than the humidity chamber? Bagging them would be more work and I worry about spider mites, but I don't mind to do what ever it takes to get a successful cone of it, I'll do it. I would even spend hundreds or maybe even thousands of dollars to graft/clone it successfully. lol You probably know how it is for me, ones favorite plant/tree of a plant enthusiast is kind of like a very close family pet.

I know only air layer grating I used it for grapes and Apple to creat a new variety on the same tree or to save a branch I was going to cut any way and creat a new tree I did it with good sucess. I don't know if you can do the same with Figs. In Figs we root cuttings. It is a very famous way to create a fig tree. I did quiet some this way. Some fruit trees like Mango has to be grafted or you get lousy tasting fruit.

I think I would over winter them inside a garage, if I were you. I have a number of similar sized plants, and that's where they're going, You're always a few degrees colder than me (Columbia, SC)

I have a well established fig tree that produced good fruit for 20 years. The last two years has yielded few if any figs. This year the tree has just one fig developing. The plant is otherwise very healthy. The trunk at base is about 2 inches in diameter. Is this plant a good candidate to be used as root stock for grafting new fig scions? Or will whatever has caused the drop off in fruit production affect the production of the new grafts?