Eukofios, Thank you for your thoughts on sealing and binding the fig cleft-graft. In reply to your interest about my own experiences with fig grafting, I can summarise my personal observations in the field, thus far, as follows- Chip budding using current season's growth as buds matched onto rootstock material of similar growth maturity, has proven to be VERY easy and successful in my trials recently (we are now in the middle of autumn here in Australia). "Patch budding" (which is different to T budding or chip budding) has also proved successful for me, however it has many disadvantages over chip budding....The patch budding proceedure can only be done successfully when the bark of the recipient and the donor both slip easily....Also if the bark of the patch is much thinner than the bark around where it will be placed, it will always fail to take in the fig. I have therefore come to the conclusion that chip budding is BY A LONG SHOT more versatile than patch budding, and should be the preferred method of budding figs. I would also suggest that it is to be preferred ovet T-budding, if only for the obvious reason that T budding also reuqires the recipient bark to easily slip, which adds restrictions on the timing of the grafting. I have not as yet tried cleft grafting onto figs. Anyway, keep us posted on your results!!

I am not a wizard nor an exceptional grafter, and I achieve very acceptable results with chip-budding in late spring to mid summer. Other methods than budding are unadvised by experts like Pierre Baud. If you want to try other methods like grafting during dormant season or similar, it's up to you, but you probably will lose your time and you will give up. They fail a lot. I know expert grafters who have tried the whip and crown grafting methods in figs, they are absolutely discouraging with very poor results. In the case of whip grafting 0% success. You have mentioned apples and pears, they are in my opinion very easy to graft. You can achieve near 100% success with the most of grafting methods (crown grafting is my preferred in this case), but figs are other story. If you follow, beside the usual advises for chip-budding, all of my advises in this post there is no reason to fail, surely you won't get a 100 % success but so a reasonable rate. This one of my grafted adult figs, all the limbs from the 6 main branches are grafted. All except one (with "T" budding) have been grafted with chip-budding method:

What you are thinking is the root stock is more likely the cutting from which your tree was started. Probably the most common way to start new fig trees is from a hard wood cutting. When the new growth sprouts from the cutting, it looks a bit like a graft.

Yes both types of scion sent, at this point to early to tell whats what but in time you will know if both are same or 1 of each . Just a guess but that top picture may a B.Madeira and bottom picture the Vds but its only a guess at this early stage. Time will tell though. Martin