Oh, dear! Maybe some of these 'powder rooms' need a copy of the book my DS's psychiatrist SIL gives to young children. Title is: "Everybody Poops". Reminds me of an adventure a friend had while traveling by car in a rural area of Spain. She had some gastric distress and was in dire need. Her DH stopped in front of a modern home. My friend rang the bell. Lady-of-the-house answered. Friend asked if there was a 'bathroom' she could use. Lady proudly showed her three rooms with tubs and showers. Friend was dying. Finally the homeowner said, "Oh, you need the TOILET!" Time to take the pantaloons off the table legs, folks. The Victorian Era is O-V-E-R. Let's retire 'powder room' while we're at it.

I like that plan a lot Keywest, except I would probably nix the window in the closet. Another design we are throwing around. Pretty much checks all the boxes. Door location is not ideal but workable. I really like how this one and yours above has everything open and allows for sunlight and a view no matter where you are in the bathroom. (Except on the toilet of course. lol) This design has a large closet door, and equally centered windows which is great. The toilet is right when you walk in, but I think by putting it in back in the alcove, and opening the door away from it like this, it wouldn't be too bad. Our current toilet is literately the first thing in our bathroom and it never bothered me or even occurred to me until you guys mentioned it on one of my plans. Not a deal breaker. This is my dream bathroom. I love the marble, grey vanity, bench, and especially the pony wall between the vanity and shower. What I'm imagining with built-ins above the tub, marble, and large windows. Our furnace is direct vent, and we are really limited on where we can put it due to crawl space issues. Pretty much have to put in in the addition, as per HVAC guy. Putting it inside the closet inside the bathroom on the far side is our best option. CO2 detectors are a must.

"There is no longer any water showing up on the sheets of paper. Can I eliminate the possibility of a leak in the pipes?" That may indicate that there isn't a leak when the shower valve is off. Leaks behind the wall are rare, but they do occur. You could troubleshoot leaks behind the wall by unthreading the shower head from the arm that comes out of the wall. Crack the shower valve so water starts trickling out of the arm, then close the valve. Now thread a 1/2" cap on the arm (in place of the shower head) and turn on the shower valve. That'll pressurize the plumbing between the valve and the cap. Leave the supply valve on for a while. If water starts showing up within a few hours or the next day, then there may indeed be a leak behind the wall. You can try to get a visual on it at the same time be sliding the shower head escutcheon plate off the arm, that'll allow you to put eyes on the union that the shower arm threads in to. You can also remove the escutcheon plate that covers the shower valve. With the shower head removed, the shower arm capped, the two escutcheons removed, and the water ON, you may be able to see or even hear a mist or spray from any faulty unions. If visibility is restricted, you can also poke a Q-tip or something like that into the holes and see if it comes out wet. But again...leaks behind the wall are rare. I'd be interested in finding out if the floor membrane itself is sloped to the drain. Many installers who use CPE or CPVC membranes improperly lay the membrane flat on the floor, then set sloped mud on the flat membrane and tile on the sloped mud. However, it's a code requirement that the membrane itself should be sloped. Lastly...sometimes these weird water things can disappear on their own over time. Fresh mud beds become wet with their first use, and on these forums we've had a few instances of water behaving badly while the bed saturates over the first few uses. Good luck with it.

You need documentation no matter what comes next. You need all your in-progress photos, all texts and emails between you and contractor, the contract, the texts and emails from the tile people, printed out manufacturer’s instructions for the waterproofing materials he used such as wall boards and pan liner, texts and emails from the local rep for the manufacture (if you contacted them), etc, etc. Buy the TCNA handbook and read the shower chapters. Ask for a meeting. In meeting explain what your concerns are and cite all the things that he did wrong, with in-progress photos and cross-referencing all the violations to the standards, codes and instructions. Ask what his plan is for re-building the shower. If he refuses, ask him does that mean he’s quitting the project? If he says yes, that means he has quit, you did not fire him, document/confirm that in an email. If he says no he’s not quitting, then tell him remedying this situation is part of the project, so ask him which day he’s coming over to demo and re-build it. He may quit at that point. If he does try to re-built it, if/after that fix fails, you can fire him. Then send a demand letter certified return receipt asking for full refund plus the cost that you will have to pay to hire a new tile professional to demo and re-build (use local averages or get actual bids). Cite all the violations like you did in the meeting with the references. We had to do all this stuff when our GC quit rather than fix the issues. It’s a PITA but we got double our money back. Read my “Project Goes South” post, you might find some helpful info in there. Now, if you don’t have any of the documentation I listed above, don’t have a contract, etc, etc, I don’t know what leverage you have. You can still have the meeting and send the demand letter, but if it goes to court documentation is your friend and you want max documentation. Hopefully you can dig up some photos of the waterproofing process involving both the floor and the walls. If you don’t have much, add this to your meeting: ask the contractor to simply explain each step (like he’s teaching you) he used to build your shower, starting with framing. Then write down every word he says, asking him to slow down or repeat if needed. Don’t correct or challenge anything he says; let him explain his process. That can substitute a little bit for your lack of other documentation. Then you can cross reference any wrong info he told you to the codes, standards and manufacturer’s instructions, and proceed from there with demand letter. If he refuses your demand letter, which he will, you can decide about suing him. In my state justice court (small claims) is non-binding. We didn’t sue our GC, but he sued us saying we fired wrongfully him. We responded with counter-suit in District Court and asked that the lower case get rolled up to that level because of the $ amount and we wanted a binding decision. It’s a pain and I hope we never have to talk to a judge again, but we had to respond to quit-GCs suit and go through the process. Best of luck to you.