Pearl ... Also make sure that your plant is getting enough LIGHT. African Violets need 10-14 hours/day of BRIGHT light through a window ... or indoor fluorescent light. When I finally was able to keep my African Violets alive, ... I next learned that I needed to keep them in BRIGHT LIGHT multiple hours per day to get their flower buds to open. Those plants that I didn't get into a well-lit location would not open their flower buds, even if the plants had flowers and buds when I brought it home. Those buds would just brown and die. So check your LIGHTING. An easy way to make sure your plant is getting enough light is to purchase an inexpensive desk-lamp and use one of the 60 W fluorescent spiral bulbs in it. Train that light onto your African Violet during your waking hours, and I guarantee that you will get bloom. Examples of such lighting setups are displayed below ...

I have seen boston ferns in worse shape. As long as there are green fronds on it you should be able to repot/divide it in the spring.

I'm so sorry, but, it doesn't look completely dead yet. Your potting mix looks very wet or is it just very black? Young lychee plant don't need the extreme moistness of larger trees does. Carefully pulled out the tree and look at the root ball/system. If they are still whitish and not dark brown. Then the lychee still has a fighting chance. All those leaves will eventually drop or you can pull them off now. It will be a slower process to regrow new leaves, but, if the root system is dark brown, then it is most likely dead. But, whitish roots, still have hope for recovering. Will be slower, but will recovered. I have some young plants like that too, all the leaves died and turned brown. But their root system is still alive, just took longer to recover, after such a stressful period of leaf drops. Hang on to the little guy, it will recover, eventually. Just don't give it water unless you notice the soil is getting on the dry side.

GF - Plants are naturally shedding organisms; they automatically balance their root to shoot ratio. IOW, if you prune off a fraction of the top of a plant, and leave the roots intact, the plant has internal chemical messengers that stimulate the plant to quickly replace the 'missing' top growth. If you prune roots and leave the top intact, the plant is stimulated to focus its energy allocation on replacing roots. If there is a significant loss of either top mass or bottom (root) mass, die back (shedding) of it's counterpart can occur. You can't prevent that from occurring, and the only hand you might play is by simultaneously pruning roots and shoots so they end up in balance when you're done; but still, the plant will do the fine tuning because you'll find that there is a relationship between particular roots and particular branches that varies in the degree of dedication, one to the other, by species. IOW, root A has a closer relationship to branch A than any other branch and the exclusivity of that relationship varies by species. The reciprocal of that relationship is also true. So, if you prune root A or branch A, the 'adjustment' in root growth or top growth will be greater in it's opposite counterpart more so than in the rest of the branches or roots. So a mechanism is in place whereby the entire organism as well as individual root to shoot relationships will automatically be balanced. Lauren - I did a little experiment with a bonsai tree. After measuring a rooms RH, I set the potted tree above a large tray full of water and pebbles and placed the same digital hygrometer used to measure the room's RH in its branches. A half hour later, RH had increased only .4 % - 4/10 of 1%, an insignificant amount. So, if your wish is to raise RH surrounding your plants, a humidifier suited to raising the RH of at least the room where the plants gather for companionship is the best way, followed distantly by grouping your plants together, though the more plants you have, the better the later works. Al